WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
Hi everybody. How are your boobs? I’m here today to talk to you about what to do with your life when your rack is too substantial to fit into “normal” department store sizes. I don’t know about you, but I was already wearing a C cup by age 11, which made middle school an awkward and uncomfortable time for all involved. When you’re already a pretty weird kid, all you really want to do is blend in, but my own body betrayed me. I was cursed with giant tits that failed to deliver anything but purely negative and altogether unwanted attention. By the time I’d reached high school, the girls in my chemistry class were calling me by a whole slew of horrible nicknames, and I was made to feel incredibly self conscious about my body for the rest of my natural life! It felt a lot like this:
All of that changed many years later, when my then-girlfriend’s best friend picked me up and took me to a place called Bratenders in New York City, where I received my first professional fitting and my first bra that actually fit. It was there that I discovered that I was not actually a 36DD but a 32G (hello ladies), that bikinis were a thing I could wear without pairing an ill-fitting XXL top with a M bottom, and that wearing the proper size opened the door to a whole new world of self confidence.
The first tip I can give you is never to go to a Victoria’s Secret or any other chain store at the mall. Your boobs don’t fit into anything they have there, and if they tell you otherwise they are lying. I spent too many years of my life wearing an ill-fitting bra and feeling miserable about my body, and I don’t wish that feeling on anyone, especially you, girl. Your feelings are important to me. The day you try on a size that actually fits you properly is the day your entire worldview and feelings about your body changes forever.
If possible, I would recommend finding a good lingerie shop nearby and getting fitted by a professional, but if that isn’t available, this Reddit thread is full of useful advice. Size is generally pretty subjective, and fits vary across brands and styles, so it’s always best to try things on first. I am only an expert in the bras that fit my particular rack and the racks of those I’m intimately familiar with, so for the purposes of this article I also consulted my good friend Emily White, president and treasurer of the imaginary International Hot Chicks With Large Racks Society.
Before we get into specific styles, there are three major complaints we must address:
+ Strapless bras are just never going to be a thing — I’m sorry. They do exist, but to my knowledge the laws of physics just have not adapted to properly create a bra capable of properly supporting any part of one’s D-or-above-sized body without straps. I have tried for years to find an acceptable solution, but they always make me miserable — they dig into my skin, and never look quite right. If anybody reading this has a better suggestion, I’d love to hear about it.
+ This is never going to be cheap. Unfortunately, most stores don’t tend to carry larger sizes, which means we have to seek coverage out elsewhere, mostly from specialty shops — which ends up being pretty expensive. On average, a quality bra can end up costing between $70-125, which is infinitely frustrating. Highly recommended spots to buy include Freya, Brastop, Jenette Bras, and my personal favorite, Linda the Bra Lady. (Autostraddle also has affiliate accounts at HerRoom, Bigger Bras, Torrid and Lane Bryant, if any of those are your merchants of choice.)
+ Emily wants me to tell you that sports bras are a particular challenge for women of generous proportion. I have no idea because I hate sports (huge rack + jumping jacks = not a pleasant gym class experience), but this moving comfort bra from RoadRunner Sports is a good place to start.
Based off of my favorite online bra-shopping spots, here are a couple of suggestions I’ve found for you and your boobs:
1. Curvy Kate Dreamcatcher Balcony Bra 2. Ultimo The One Josephine Plunge Bra
3. Ooh La La Henna Plunge Balcony Bra 4. Kris Line Pralina Balconette Bra
5. Marvel Black Side Panel Bra 6. Affinitas Parfait Celine Wire Bra
This is just a sample of things I found appealing — you are in no way limited by style or color! There are literally hundreds of options out there.
As for swimwear, here are a few cute suggestions I found while scouring the internet:
1. Curvy Kate Shockwave Halter Bikini Top 2. Cleo Hattie UW Balconnet Bikini Cleo by Panache
3. Curvy Kate Seashell Halterneck Bikini Top 4. Panache Stella U/W Balconnet Bikini Top
5. Wild Side Hot Pink Banded Halter Bikini Top 6. Pier Black Halter Bikini Top
Please feel free to share any tips or other advice you may have in the comments. We’re all in this together.
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
by Robin Roemer
To fit yourself properly for a bra, besides the old trial and error method, you’ll need to measure your bust. If you don’t have a cloth tape measure, just use a strip and then measure that with a yard stick or regular tape measure.
Step 1: Measure your band length. This is length around your chest just under your breasts.
Step 2: Measure across your chest, right in the middle across your nipples.
Step 3: Take the measurement from step one and subtract from step two! This number will determine your cup size.
Use this handy chart to help you find your cup size in inches or centimeters.
Your size will be your band length and your cup size. Voilá! Little known fact. Cup size is not universal. So if your breasts are the same size as someone, but your band size is different, you do not share the same cup size. See this infographic!
This info is important if you ever want to change bra sizes!
A few extra tips!
– You should be able to stick one finger under your strap. Don’t let it be much looser than that since the elastic in bras tends to stretch out over time.
– Lean over when you put your bra on. It’ll help you fall into place a bit easier.
– There should not be any gaps between your breast and the inside of the cup. Your boobs should also not be popping out of your bra.
Photography by Robin Roemer
by Robin Roemer
My experience in lingerie stems from my years photographing couture lingerie collections, working with a lingerie personal shopper doing private boudoir shoots for her clients and abiding by a strict no-cotton policy. At this point in my life, I feel just as sexy (and a few dollars richer) in cotton boyshorts, but I still appreciate and admire the craftsmanship present in fine lingerie.
So if you want to blow your tax return on something sexy, or have a special gift in mind and a little cash to spend, here are just a few of my favorite lingerie stores!
Photography by Robin Roemer
Left: Agent Provocateur bra / Right: Zana Bayne harness
Journelle has several boutiques in NYC, but you can easily shop online! They carry several different brands/designers. One of my favorites, Elle Macpherson’s line of intimates, can be found here and isn’t over the top expensive!
La Perla is one of my favorite lingerie brands. You can find their stores all over the world, in several of the largest US cities and online.
Agent Provocateur is couture meets kink. If you prefer leather to lace, but still want a feminine cut, try Agents selection. Find a store near you or shop online!
If you find even the most timid lingerie trashy, Kiki de Montparnasse is refined and sophisticated brand you might want to peep.
This isn’t a lingerie brand per se, but if you are looking for fun leather accessories you can wear from day to night, Zana Bayne is a really amazing designer you should check out. The Zana Bayne fashion week show is up now on their website and items can be purchased from the online shop.
My most recent designer obsession is Dani Read.
If these brands are a bit more than you want to spend, you can do what I usually do and check out these collections for inspiration (or just eye candy). Whether you shop thrifty, do it yourself, or drop some serious cash, make sure you check out the materials on your garments before chucking them in a washing machine. It might be worth your while to hand wash your delicates!
Here are some picks from those stores for your collection:
1. Elle MacPherson Artistry Contour Bra ($65) (A-DD). 2. La Perla Renata Demi-Cup ($124) (B-D). 3. L’Agent by Agent Provocateur ($74) (A-DD). 4. Kiki de Montparnasse Ondule Soft Cup Bra ($195) (S-L). 5. Chantelle Mutine Full-Figure Plunge Bra ($78) (D-G). 6. Lascivious Rachel Full Cup Bra ($190) (B-DD).
by intern veronica
Brands like Calvin Klein, DKNY and Victoria’s Secret are great if you’re able to make a mid-level investment in your bra. When it comes to lingerie, unfortunately cheaper bras are more likely to break (underwire popping out of the fabric, most often) or fray in the wash, but they’ll do the trick for as long as they hold up! I find H&M and Forever 21 to be great sources of bras that won’t last long but look good trying and Target is also a good place to find good stuff. Especially if you’re looking for hard-to-find sizes, I can’t recommend HerRoom and their search-by-size feature enough, and also Big Girl Bras, which goes from 28A to 58J.
Here are some options for people of all sizes and price ranges!
1. Calvin Klein Underwear Icon Bare Stretch-Satin Underwired Bra ($40) (B-D). 2. ASOS Boudoir Art Nouveau Lace Underwired Bra ($33.87) (B-D). 3. Bluebird Isabella Bralette ($32) (S-L). 4. Jezebel Women’s Ideal Unlined ($32) (B-DD). 5. Xhiliration Perfect T-Shirt Push-Up Plunge Bra ($12.99) (A-D). 6. Torrid Lace Demi Bra ($42.50) (44B-40DDD)
1. Felina Marielle Full-Busted Bra ($39) (32C – 40DDD). 2. b.tempt’d by Wacoal Full Bloom Underwire bra ($35) (32B-38D). 3. Cleo by Panache Lucy Balconnet Bra ($53) (28D-38J). 4. Under it All Unlined Bra in Grey and Pink ($62.99) (32B-38D). 5. “Scarlette” Lined Lace Bralette ($30). 6. Elle MacPherson Safari Style Stretch-Mesh Balconette Bra ($45) (32A-36DD). 7. Calvin Klein Launch Lace Underwire Bra ($31.99) (32B-38C). 8. Hannah Cotton Lightly Lined Bra ($24.99) (30AA- 38DD)
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
I have been a loyal user of one kind of bra for over ten years. Obviously, I’ve bought new ones (time and again) and that’s been great, but I have not strayed from my allegiance to the Lane Bryant Plunge Bra. I knew I should up my support game by trying something new and I’d always been curious about getting a custom bra fit. We’re lucky in New York City to have quite a few legendary stores to choose from.
The thing about a lot of plus size bra manufacturers is that they don’t conform to traditional bra sizing. They may use the same bandwidth + cup size measurements but they don’t actually work if you base it on your interaction with a tape measure. I’ve always found it’s about just trying them on in the store and seeing which one fits, kind of like you would try on dresses. I thought a lot about what it would look like to have someone come at me with a tape measure and rustle up the right fitting bra.
Racks and racks for racks.
To spend the kind of coin one needs to in order to get Bras That Fit And Last is a little daunting. To Go To A Place to get that done is also daunting. Soooo… I procrastinated. I knew the bras I had were no longer fitting as I had an unanticipated and unintended weight change and was kind of annoyed by it and resentful that I had to get new clothing and bras. I let it go until both my best friend and my girlfriend told me I was no longer allowed to wear these monstrosities that were letting my boobs roll around like chicken cutlets.
My bestie Jacqueline along for support.
I enlisted Jacqueline’s support and we went to a custom bra store a kinda-masculine-of-center friend had raved about. Linda the Bra Lady has two locations, one on the Upper East Side and one in Murray Hill where we wanted to get brunch.
Bra shopping pro tip: I highly recommend having lunch right before you go shopping for anything that might trigger body issues because it’s best to leave hangry out of the emotional equation.
Though we didn’t have an appointment and they are recommended, we were seen within about ten minutes. We poked through the showroom and I was a little confused about how little they had out considering the range of sizes they said they carried. I loved that the mannequins were different sizes and some were plus sized right amongst the smaller ones (or “straight” sized as they are called in the plus industry). I like a store that carries all sizes and I especially like it when plus sized clothes aren’t relegated to a secret shame kind of area. Our money is just the same and I find it very affirming when our clothes are viewed as just as valuable by a business.
We went to the fitting area and it looked like I was shopping for a wedding gown — super nice with a roomy center couch for the support team to hang out and offer advice. There was a huge variety of body sizes in the store with us and everyone had different levels of modesty. As someone who occasionally performs burlesque, I don’t have a lot of modesty concerns in changing rooms, but it would be easy to tuck yourself away and not have to show off your bra situation.
I was greeted by Linda herself, though there is a team of bra fit experts who are trained by Linda for three months to achieve that title. She measured my band size with my bra still on and then had me take it off and eyed my tits for a few beats. Then she said, “I’ll be right back,” and went into the stockroom. I peeked back there and that’s where all the bras are. Racks and racks, as tall as you can imagine, with lots of colors, lace and swirly magic.
Cushy support team area.
She came back with a few options and I slid in and out of them, with her expertly adjusting, appraising and approving or rejecting. There were a few winners right away, including a cute t-shirt bra and a really foxy red and black pinstripe bra. I let Linda know I like fun bras in fun colors and I got the run of what she had in my size. I ended up with this gorgeous teal bra that she gave me for half off ($60 down from $120). I also got a super cute beige lacey bra for everyday wear that was $82. And the red pinstriped one was only $38. The bras they have run the gamut from $29-$129.
Linda convinced me to let her throw away the bra I wore in, she said, “When it no longer treats you well it’s time to throw it away, just like a man.” Which is great advice if you modify the “man” to be “any gendered romantic relationship,” but I got the gist.
Me and a plus size mannequin killing it in a leopard bra. Here I am wearing an old bra that doesn’t fit.
They kept my records in their system, so if I want to order a new color or another of the bras I bought I can just call them or swing by. As for the leopard bra I coveted but they didn’t have my size in stock, I’ll need to go back because they know which bras fit a little different and require an in-person try on.
According to her website, custom bra fittings can happen via phone, online chat or email, so far away folks have access to Linda’s magic as well. I’ve been wearing my new bras for over a week now and have been very happy with them. The bras range from AA-N (yes, N cup is a thing) and they have swimwear, nursing bras and mastectomy bras available.
Me and Linda the Bra Lady. I’m wearing a bra that fits super well in this shot. You can definitely tell a difference.
It was daunting to go in for a custom fitting but I’m a convert, now. I definitely feel way more confident in my choice of size and style.
Header by Rory Midhani
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
Here’s a random fact: Did you know there is actually no common medical reason to wear a bra?
That’s right. None. Contrary to popular belief, bras don’t improve breast health, prevent breast sagging, or anything else. Quite simply, there is no agreed upon health benefit to wearing bras that applies to every single woman.
I know it probably seems a bit strange for me to be saying this. After all, I am a lingerie blogger so I should be Team Bra 24/7, right? But I’ve been thinking about the whole bra/no-bra thing for awhile, and some of the language we have around bras (and the women who don’t wear bras) really bothers me.
As much as I love bras (and, as you’ve probably guessed, I really love them), even I don’t wear one everyday. I wore a bra more often when my nipples were pierced, but since I’ve taken the piercings out, I’ve gone back to wearing a bra — a lot of (but not all of) the time. Which is fine because no one should feel obligated to wear a bra, in the same way no one should feel obligated to wear a corset or obligated wear a girdle or obligated to wear any underwear at all for that matter.
While I understand that some people may prefer their breast shape with a bra or are more comfortable wearing a bra (for a variety of reasons — heavy breasts, nipple sensitivity, back pain, etc.), that’s a completely different thing from the notion of compulsory bra wearing — saying every woman has to or should wear a bra. Unfortunately, that latter sentiment (you must wear a bra at all times!) is the general consensus from the society at large, including many facets of the lingerie community. And this article focuses on that social conversation regarding bra wearing.
What’s most interesting to me in about this whole bra/braless conversation is the ideas other people have why a woman might choose to go braless. Bralessness still has a ton of social stigma attached to it. People rarely attribute bralessness to comfort or personal preference; instead, it’s seen as a plea for sexual attention, a political statement, or even a lack of self-care. Why can’t bralessness ever just be an innocent, innocuous choice? Why are women made to feel that they always have to wear a bra (and, if we’re in the United Staes, a molded bra which hides your nipples)? It’s a thought-provoking question, and, as some of the illustrations hint at below, the idea that women’s bodies just aren’t good enough on their own is really old-fashioned.
The S-Bend ‘Gibson Girl’ Corset
Via Wikipedia
What do I mean? Well, we already know that for several centuries, women wore stays or corsets almost everyday. A woman’s underpinnings were seen as connected to and a reflection of a her morality. I’ve often wondered if the phrase “loose woman” (as in, an “unchaste” or “immoral” woman) has its etymology in corset wearing. After all, the term has been around since the 15th century. Wealthy women could afford the greater restriction of mobility that came with more tightly bound stays. That contrasts to lower class and less affluent women who needed their stays looser to perform hard physical labor.
Not surprisingly, upper class women were also seen as “more” moral and worthy of protection than their poorer counterparts. For centuries, only a woman’s most intimate acquaintances ever saw her without her corset. If one went without a corset (or if the corset was visible), this was a sign of “ill-breeding,” and that woman might be assumed to be an actress, prostitute, or some other lady of ill-repute. In that way, wearing a corset, albeit within the strict rules of society, became a way to advertise that you were a morally upstanding female member of the community and so eligible for the privileges thereof, including admission to “good” society, a beneficial marriage, and the relative perks of politeness, etiquette, and being “treated like a lady.”
Now let’s fast forward 50 years or so later. By now the bra has been invented (in 1890, 1910, or the 16th century depending on who you read) and so has the girdle. Originally seen as a more comfortable and flexible substitute for the corset, the girdle also replaced the corset’s function as a moral boundary as well. Despite the comparative freedom a girdle offered, a “proper” woman still didn’t let her flesh jiggle or shake unencumbered. Everything had to be tightly restrained within the elastic, mesh, and straps of a foundation garment. Women who “broke the rules” were subject to unsympathetic criticism about both the shape of their bodies and the looseness of their morals. Sounds familiar.
Via Corsetiere.net
Well, despite our current beauty ideal for a soft, rounded, featureless cup shape (hello there, molded t-shirt bras), it’s important to remember that it’s just today’s beauty ideal. There’s no health study and certainly no moral judgment that should give it added weight. If you don’t care for that particular look or you don’t just flat out don’t like bras, that’s fine. It shouldn’t be a character judgment and it’s certainly not a “bad” reflection on who you are. It’s just a personal preference. In the same vein, for every woman, wearing a bra is a personal choice. It is her own decision for her own reasons, and no one else should get to judge.
Often, when I write articles like this, people just read the title and just right ahead to the assumption that I hate bras. But I don’t. However, it’s worth mentioning one more time — if you like wearing a bra, that’s cool. And if you don’t like wearing a bra, that’s still cool. Neither option is any more offensive or troublesome or immoral than wearing or not wearing a sweater.
Spanx on Rachel Ray. Yes. we’re still doing the before/after shot.
I starting thinking about this today because I realized a lot of the conversations I hear about bras are less about how they make the wearer feel and more about how they make the wearer look, particularly to others. Words like, “flattering,” “correct,” and “proper,” are often thrown around without any consideration or commentary on the implied meaning behind those words. And let’s be clear, whether you’re wearing a bra for fashion or for support, if it helps you feel like the most comfortable, confident, and courageous women you can be, that’s a great thing. Keep on wearing your bras. But the point is, personal preferences matter.
One should never insist that bras are a requirement for every woman. Even if a woman is fuller-busted or happens to share your bra size, that doesn’t mean bras are a necessity for her. And, of course, it’s always a problem when the conversation on bras and bra wearing turns into thinly-disguised body snark. All bodies are fine, regardless of if those bodies wear bras and conform to our notions of beauty or not. The culture of picking apart and shaming women for not wearing a bra needs to stop.
Via Intimacy
I’m also really not okay with framing bras as the cure for sagging breasts (breasts sag eventually; it’s what they do), as a form of instant liposuction (“You’ll look like you’ve lost 10 pounds!”; why should looking thinner be every woman’s goal?), as a way of putting down non-Western women and non-Western beauty standards (everyone who has ever used an old issue of National Geographic to make a point about bras), or as a way of deciding who “deserves” public abuse and humiliation (posting photos of women for the sole purpose of trash-talking them, something I’ve seen even in so-called woman-friendly or body positive communities).
Honestly, it’s all part of the same silly ball of wax women have been dealing with for hundreds of years, “Good women do this. Bad women do that — and the bad women deserve to be punished.”
No doubt, some of you reading this may be thinking, “Well that’s easy for you to say, you’re small-chested! None of this applies to women with larger breasts.” But that misses the point.
One, there are fuller-busted women who prefer going braless. They’re just not as visible or as vocal because we live in a very bra-centric culture and because bralessness has an attached social stigma. Two, the rules for bra-wearing apply to all women with breasts, regardless of which end of the size spectrum they fall on. Even if a smaller-busted woman doesn’t “need” a bra for comfort’s sake or what have you, she’s often encouraged to wear one anyway (often a push-up bra) because her breasts are still seen as inferior and sub-standard. The fact that women with larger busts deal with a different kind of social stigma as a result of going braless is very relevant to this conversation, but the topic applies to all women with breasts, including those who are shamed for having large nipples, assymetric breasts, or ptotic (sagging) breasts. The point is, no matter what kind of breasts you have, it’s always an issue to go without a bra.
However, just to emphasize, if you prefer wearing a bra, for whatever reason, that’s great.
My New Lingerie a.k.a. the Made by Niki ‘Feel’
As you’ve probably noticed, this article isn’t about vilifying bras or starting a no-bra revolution (if it were, I wouldn’t bought that fab Made By Niki pictured above). I still love bras, and I still want to talk about bras. And while the nerd in me is very curious about the flammability of bras, it should be obvious this article isn’t about “bra-burning” either. Instead, I want to emphasize that going without a bra is not the end of the world and it’s nice to be reminded of that.
The reasons we wear bras are just as much tied to cultural factors as they are to physical ones. It’s just that people often find a conversation on the social issues behind why we do what we do a lot harder than giving a flat medical reason for why we do what we do. Furthermore, this is just a friendly reminder that if you see someone going braless and don’t care for it? Well, is ignoring it really so hard to do? Their breasts literally have nothing to do with you.
One of the other reasons I wanted to have this wear a bra/go braless conversation is because we don’t see very many “normal” breasts anymore. And by normal, I mean how breasts look without a bra. I get emails from readers all the time who think their breasts are the wrong shape or the wrong size or the wrong symmetry when their bosom is really, truly, perfectly average. The only problem here is that we’ve gotten so used to seeing women in bras all the time, that many of us have lost touch of what breasts look like without underwires and contour cups and support slings and all that good stuff.
Victoria’s Secret, fantasy boobs in more ways than one.
To sum it all up, our particular notion of what a woman’s bust should look like is just that — our particular notion. In the 1910s it was one way, in the 1920s another, and the in 1950s still another. Our idea of what a woman’s breasts should look like is not a static, unchanging, “objective” thing. And the fact that “bra fit” is often mentioned in the same sentence with “health” or “medicine” doesn’t mean bras are beyond any sort of question or commentary. Centuries ago, people spoke about the health benefits of corsets, yet women have somehow managed to do fine without them. Lingerie, like all elements of women’s dress, is tied to fashion, and fashion — both its looks and trends – changes over time and in response to social norms of beauty.
Every woman’s breasts are different, even if they don’t fit the mold(ed cup). If you’re a woman who prefers to wear a bra, that’s awesome. And if you’re a woman who prefers to go braless (whether all the time or occasionally), that’s also awesome. Regardless, unlike what the ads of yesteryear or even today would have you believe, you don’t have a “figure problem.” You’ve just got breasts, and they’re fine as is.
Originally published on thelingerieaddict.com. Republished WITH PERMISSION MOTHERF*CKERS.
Header by Rory Midhani
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
What started as a personal endeavor to find comfortable alternatives to bras became an anger-fueled struggle to answer the question, “why is it so bleepin’ hard to NOT wear bras?” Surely it is not the act itself, but the self-consciousness, nervousness, and embarrassment that come with it.
Whenever Jennifer Aniston made a braless appearance on Friends—quite obviously (cold set?)—I would wonder how she was able to do it. And whenever my high school soccer coach did the same, the whole team would be holding back our giggles. No, back then I wouldn’t even question wearing a bra — that just wasn’t an option to me. But after years of pain and discomfort from wearing bras, it was time to do what’s best for me and not follow some arbitrary public code.
Needless to say, I am now that braless person. Funnily enough, the first modern bra, or brasserie, was created by a woman who felt uncomfortable with what was the only option that existed at the time: corsets. Mary Phelps Jacobs allowed women the painless, innovative alternative. By the 1920s, bras, in the form of bandeaus (strapless tight-fitting cloth), were majorly worn by women to achieve a more rectangular, boyish figure that at the time was on trend.
However, in our day and age, bras have become all about accentuating curves and busts, and appealing to the ever-so-skewed image of femininity. Mind you, I’m not against anyone choosing to wear bras. Wearing bras can be just as empowering and bold as rallying naked in the streets at Pride. But for anyone interested in not wearing a bra, here are some alternatives!
If you’re like me, only conscious about the nips, “pasties” are a great to try out. As the name indicates, pasties are areola-sized concave silicones that you can stick to your nipples to avoid obvious nip protrusion. Unfortunately, pasties were made to be used on special occasions, and the adhesive on the pasties will eventually wear off. It can also be bad for your skin to wear pasties for an extended period of time, so take care and give your nipples a chance to breathe every now and then.
Bandeaus are a lot like strapless bras or short tube tops. You can find ones with padding and underwire, and you can find ones without. Its straplessness offers a newlevel of comfort in movement. It is literally a weight of your shoulders. Bandeaus are also awesome for when you want to wear sleeveless tops with low-cut armholes for the summer.
Tank tops and camis offer lose-fitting alternative for those who like to feel less like they’re wearing lingerie and more like they’re wearing an extra layer of clothing. However, these offer less padding, and might not be as effective in avoiding nip protrusion.
This would be the alternative I least recommend because of how easy it is to be incorrectly done. Binding with the wrong material, such as bandages or tape, can lead to serious physical damage such as blood clots, irregular breathing, and sore ribs. But there are safe ways to wrap your chest with the right products and materials! Read all about them in Binding 101: Brands, Care Tips and Health.
Easier said than done, but I kid you not, going braless makes a world of difference. I’m still nervous and self-conscious whenever I go out braless, but after a while of easing into the process, I feel more confident and free than ever. To ease myself into it, I wear shirts with graphic designs or patterns so any nip protrusion is less noticeable. And honestly, if people are shaming you for choosing to go braless, remember that it truly isn’t a woman’s responsibility to keep people from being offended by her naked body.
Header by Rory Midhani
Even Keira Knightley has a hard time finding bras that fit
As a pre-adolescent, I regularly cursed the heavens for damning me to eternal misery by making me flat-chested. It was a ripe source of material for bullies, like Noah at Jewish Day Camp who told me I was a “carpenter’s dream, flat as a board and never been nailed.” Meanwhile, adult females repeatedly insisted that one day I’d be grateful for my small endowment and I was like, YOU ARE WRONG AND NOBODY UNDERSTANDS MY PAIN. When I finally went through puberty about four years after everybody else, my breasts grew, which was great, and I’ve totally nailed a ton of things, so I’m no longer a carpenter’s dream, but I’m also not exactly a bra manufacturer’s dream either.
That being said, the adults were right: I love my breasts now! I think they’re the best, and I’m totally happy to be a proud [whatever size I am on any given year/week/life-stage]. However, bra-buying — that shit is tough. When I was on the pill for about six years, my breasts magically grew and for a while I had a solid 34B and could even wear 34Cs sometimes. Let me tell you: life is sweet for 34Bs. Pretty much whatever I wanted came in my size, which was great, because I’m obsessed with underthings and put more care into picking my undershirt than my shirt, if you know what I’m saying.
I am the kind of person you would assume is an A, but lately I’ve actually found some AAs that fit even better than some of my A-bras. Many people with larger breasts often find that they’ve been wearing the wrong cup size, and the same can be true of small-breasted people too! Keep an open mind when it comes to your size. You know, experiment.
I come to you today with a medium-sized bounty of what I hope will be very useful information, garnered from my own experiences and those of other small-breasted babes. If you’d rather not wear a bra at all, don’t despair; we have a post about that too.
The Basics: American Apparel Cotton Spandex Jersey Crossback Bra ($7). aerie Hannah Multi-Way Lightly Lined Bra ($24.95). Gap Modal Pullover Bra ($14.70)
+ Although we have the advantage of fitting into a wide variety of basic pullover, sports-bra-style or flat triangle-cut bras, when it comes to bras that come in cup sizes, finding one for really small breasts can be just as hard as it is to find a fit for really large breasts. There’s just a lot less surface area to deal with, which means every detail of cut and form and shape needs to be exactly right to prevent gaps. Eve’s Apple has a great rundown on sizing for small-breasted women if you need help.
+ Several specialty retailers focus entirely on bras for small humans, such as The Little Bra Company, Eve’s Apples and Lula Lu Petite Lingerie. Lula Lu goes as small as 30AA and as large as 38AA and is recommended for women under 5’8 with a dress size between 0 and 8.
+ Frequently recommended brands for ladies with A-cups include Gap Body, aerie, Calvin Klein, Asos Boudoir and Natori. Calvin Klein, Asos Boudoir, aerie and Natori all go to as low as a 30A.
+ If you have a wide frame (38+) and very small breasts (AA), finding underwire bras that fit is an extra-extra-special challenge. Little Women, a boutique in the UK, has bras up to 40AA and so does Flatter Me Bras. Amoena sells really comfortable 100% cotton bras and underwire bras in sizes up to 46AA, but if you don’t plan on inserting padding or prosthesis into the pockets provided, you should probably order a cup size smaller than you usually do. Later in this post I’ll tell you about some hot options for humans rocking a 38A! Also, some of Mey’s tips on bra-buying for trans women could be applicable regardless of your gender identity.
+ It can be really difficult to find an underwire bra in a small size that isn’t excessively padded or lined. But lining has a silver lining in that it prevents “nipping out” and oftentimes that padding can help fill out a shirt or dress. I used to hate padding but now I think of it as a fashion accessory.
+ If you are both small-breasted and small-framed, you can occasionally strike it rich in the little girls’ section or score with petites. But if you’re anything like me (5’10 and broad-shouldered), you’ll likely find the straps too small and the cups too close together.
+ These days I’m more into underwire bras with cups because I like the look better under tight shirts, but still prefer bras like this for when I’m dressing in a more masculine style. Lots of small-breasted ladies are huge fans of pullover bras, bandeaus and flat triangle bras — these are especially good if you’re truly flat-chested or are going for a more streamlined/masculine silhouette. It’s also really easy to find cheap ones!
+ If you find a style you like, buy five of them! It is a truth universally acknowledged that the degree to which you like a certain bra is equal to the likelihood that said bra will get discontinued.
Model Charlotte Carey is a size AA but not in that bra
If you want an underwire bra that provides the same style of support and shaping that larger sizes offer, I have one primary suggestion: aerie by American Eagle. Especially if you’re too tall or wide for petite bras, aerie is your very best friend.
Look, they’ll even show you what a AA bra looks like on a AA lady.
Almost all of aerie’s bra styles are available in sizes going as low as 30AA and they also have a wide variety of convertibles/multi-ways — bras that can be adjusted to become racerbacks (or strapless, sometimes)! It’s super-hard to find a bra that fits, so it helps if the only one that does fit can serve multiple purposes. I have two aerie Hannah lightly-lined multi-way bras and they’re basically all I ever wear. Plus their website is the best.
Here are some fun bras for you. I’ve also indicated below the smallest size carried in each of these options.
1. Odyssey Blue Sunnie Stretch Lightly Lined Bra (32AA) ($39.95). 2. Josette Demi-Cup Bra ($58) (34AAA). 3. aerie Hannah Multi-Way Lightly Lined Bra ($24.95) (30AA). 4. Wear Everywhere Push-Up Bra ($32) (32AAA). 5. Small Is Beautiful Bra. ($58) (32AA). 6. Wacoal Petite Embrace Lace Push-Up Bra ($52) (32AA). 7. ae Mia Vintage Lace Multi-Way Push Up Bra ($25) (32AA). 8. Lulalu Essential T-Shirt Bra ($46) (34AAA).
I wish I had bought ten of this style of Calvin Klein bra before they stopped making them
Calvin Klein used to sell the cutest triangle bras with a band that looked like the waistband of their underpants back then — like men’s underpants, but in a slightly smaller and more gentle font. Alas, like all good things in the world, these no longer exist. Some pricier brands have picked up the torch.
Base Range Racer-Back Waffle-Knit Cotton Soft-Cup Bra ($55). Sloan & Tate ‘Buckingham’ Bra ($48). Sloan & Tate ‘York’ Bra ($48). Surplice Sweetheart Cotton Bandeau Bra ($7.99).
You don’t have to choose between lace/flowers/bows and plain ‘ol black sports bras — there are plenty of styles that manage to be fun without being overly feminine. Here are some!
1. Gap Pullover Bra ($17.46). 2. Fruit of the Loom 3-Pack Cotton Pullover Sportsbra ($11). 3. VPL Insertion Bra ($95). 4. Tie-Dye Layering Bra ($5.80). 5. Calvin Klein Concept Seamless Wire-Free Bra ($20). 6. V-Neck Bralette ($3.80). 7. Tomboy Or Bust ($32). 8. Interlock Bra ($10)
Here are some options for bras that come in XS-XL rather than bands and cup sizes. Be careful with bralettes and many triangle bras — if you’re not just one minimal weight gain away from an A-cup or in the 32-34 range, you could end up with too much space for non-existent boobs.
1.Steve Madden Reversible Bralette ($16.08) 2.Leanne Lace Racerback Bralette ($32). 3.See You Monday Galaxy Bandeau ($12). 4.American Apparel Loral Print Cotton Spandex Jersey Cross-Back Bra ($16). 5.Sweet Floral Lace Bralette ($6.80). 6.Emma Elegance Lace Bralette ($30). 7.Top Secret Hippie Bralette ($54). 8.Aerie Signature Lace Bandeau ($10).
This one’s for all you 38As out there.
1. Timpa Duet Lace Underwire Demi Bra ($36) (32A-38A). 2. Amoena Ruth Soft Cup Bra ($25) (32AA-44AA). 3. The Little Bra Company Nicole Push-Up Demi Petite Bra with Optional Pads. ($60) (30A-38A). 4. Pretty Polly Lingerie Take The Plunge Lace Embroidery Plunge Push-Up Bra. ($44) (32A-38A). 5. Cosabella Sophia Balconette Bra ($90) (32A-38A). 6. Natori Understated Contour Underwire Bra ($64). (32A-38A).
So, my fellow carpenters’ dreams, what are your favorite brands?
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
Kaitlyn and I decided to take a stab at making our own bras (of different styles and functions!) and showing you how it’s done. Let’s get to it!
Sports bras are one of those things that I know I need but feel silly spending a lot of money on. I wear them two or three times a week, primarily during activities where I end up covered in sweat, and I feel like the big bucks should be reserved for sexy lingerie or the perfect supportive, comfortable day-to-day bra. Making a sports bra out of old workout leggings, on the other hand, requires spending little-to-no money, and provides the added benefit of clearing things I never wear out of my dresser.
The key to this DIY is finding a pair of leggings with a waistband just a little smaller than your bra band size. Measure your bra band size directly under your breasts, making sure to hold the measuring tape horizontal all the way around your torso. The elastic waistband of your leggings will stretch, so I’d say that ideal size is an inch or two smaller than your bra band. (If your bra band is 32 inches, for example, you’ll want a waistband around 30 inches, depending on the stretchiness of the elastic.) You want the band to stay firm and do most of the heavy lifting, but not be so tight as to cut off circulation.
Supplies Needed:
+ An old pair of leggings
+ measuring tape
+ needle
+ thread
+ scissors
+ pins
+ a pencil or marker
+ a sports bra you like as a guide
+ foam pads from an old bathing suit (if you want extra coverage)
Step 1: Turn your leggings inside out and upside down and lay the sports bra even with the bottom of the waistband. You can use wither the front or the back of the leggings for the front of the bra, depending on your bust size; larger busts may benefit from the extra fabric in back. Trace loosely around the rest of the bra, adding a half-inch seam allowance. Cut off the legs and remove the guide bra.
Step 2: Cut out the pattern for your new bra. The most difficult part of this for me was the neckline, because I had to eyeball how much of the extra crotch fabric to cut out before I could lay it out flat and trace the real neckline. If you’re nervous about this, just cut right along the inseam, which will go more or less down the center. After you’ve cut it open and laid everything flat, you can adjust your neckline as needed.
Step 3: Hem the fabric all the way around by folding it in and sewing shut. I hand-sewed a back stitch because it creates a strong seam and a nice straight line on the exposed side, but whatever you prefer will work. This would have taken about a quarter of the time with a sewing machine, so if you have one, congratulations/a pox on you.
Step 4: Take your foam pads and pin them to the inside of the front of the bra. You can either eyeball the placement or hold it up to your chest to measure, but you’ll want to sew the bottom of the pad directly to the hem of the waistband if possible to keep the thread from showing through. I didn’t sew the top of the pad at all, but you can certainly do that if you want them a little more secure.
Step 5: Turn the bra right side out and put it on so you can measure the shoulder straps. Mark the line with pins, then take it off and sew the straps together. Trim any extra fabric or loose threads, and you’re all done!
Chelsey’s Wireless Lace Bra on next page
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
For trans women, buying bras is often a new experience, even if we’re adults. If you transition later in life, you probably won’t have much experience picking out bras and the sizing might be confusing. Since most of us didn’t have the typical girl childhood, we’re kind of jumping in feet first and blind. When you add in other factors that are unique to trans women, picking out the right bra can be an arduous task.
For example, many of us have larger-than-average band sizes and many of us have smaller-than-average cup sizes. Many of us are looking for padding or space to use inserts and many of us are just starting hormones and know we will be changing cup sizes gradually over time. Unfortunately, many of us also have limited financial resources. If you’re new to hormones, I recommend getting more affordable bras for now and then reassessing your bra needs later in your transition.
Obviously, not all (or maybe not any) of these will be problems for all trans women. We come in all different shapes and sizes and body types! But I’ve got some tips that I hope will be helpful.
You probably won’t have this much fun via Village Voice
I recently went in for my first ever bra-fitting. I’d suggest going to a store that you’re familiar with or at least that you know will be trans-friendly and/or bringing a friend who can soothe your nerves. But if you can do it and you feel comfortable, I think it’s definitely worth your time. I wish I’d done it years ago. As a trans woman who didn’t start transitioning until after college, there were a lot of factors that went in to a number of regrettable bra purchases I’ve made over the years: smaller-than-average cup size, larger-than-average band size and lacking a decade or so of bra-buying experience.
Honestly, getting fitted was a little scary, and I know it’s not something all trans women will feel safe doing — if you think it’d be dangerous and don’t feel like there are any nearby stores where you won’t be misgendered or mistreated, then definitely put your mental health and safety ahead of getting a bra fitting.
I told the bra-fitter that I’m a trans woman who would be experiencing some breast growth in the coming months/years. She was super polite and helpful about everything. I found out that I was wearing the wrong bra size (one band size too small) and the woman working there also gave me some extremely helpful tips. She suggested that one thing that would be helpful would be to look for bras that have side panelling, because it guides the breast tissue forward. And believe me, if you don’t have a ton in the first place, making sure it’s all in the right place is definitely a good thing. Also, she told me that if I’m looking for a bra in my size (44C) and they don’t have it, a 42D will almost always fit the same.
Cushion Comfort Balconette Bra ($38.50-$48.50), Smart & Sexy Plunge Push Up Two Pack ($20), Gilligan & O’Malley Women’s Favorite Lightly Lined Demi Bra ($9.98-$19.99), Smart & Sexy Extremely Sexy Extreme Pushup Bra ($15)
When it comes to actually buying bras, Lane Bryant has a ton of plus size bras for trans ladies who have larger band sizes. One bra I’d suggest is the Cushion Comfort Balconette Bra. Another good choice is the Gilligan & O’Malley Women’s Favorite Lightly Lined Demi Bra, available at Target, which is not only cute, but also has enough padding to make a difference, but not feel like you’re stuffing your bra. A more price friendly option is the Smart & Sexy Plunge Push-Up Bra, which sells at Walmart and on Amazon in two packs for under $20. This is another bra that has some padding, but also feels natural. You might want to also check out the Smart & Sexy Extremely Sexy Extreme Pushup Bra (also available from Walmart or Amazon). So to sum up, these are a couple of different bras that each have some padding, but don’t look fake, are comfortable and won’t break the bank.
I also talked to some of my trans friends, with a variety of body types and bra preferences, to see what kind of bras are their favorites and why.
NuBra ($42-$49.99)
Aly has several options, depending on whether you’re looking for push-up bras or not. “I really love Gilligan & O’Malley and Forever 21 for push up bras. Frederick’s of Hollywood for non-push up bras. I use them with (for now) the NuBra as breast forms. I used to wear an A cup and B cup NuBra, one atop the other, and then the bra. You can hide the edge with makeup and presto- cleavage if you want it.”
Sensational Push-Up Bra ($34), Lily Of France Soiree Extreme Ego Boost Tailored Bra ($21.61-$34)
Askari has advice for trans women who want to make their flat chests more full. “I bought two black super push up bras from Lily of France (brand carried at Kohls) during a buy one get one half off sale (still expensive at $50). They carried roughly my size of 36 A and when both bras are worn together, they give my mostly flat/non-hormone enhanced chest a huuuge push to look like a full A cup. Soft, simple, and seductive.”
Push Up Demi Bra ($36), Cotton Demi Bra ($28), Cushion Comfort Demi Bra ($38.50-$52)
Lexi often has a hard time finding good bras at department stores, but still has a favorite. “So I’m a 44B, which is not an easy size to find in most department stores when shopping for a good bra. On top of that I have a good amount of boobage that needs to be picked up. The Black Demi by Cacique has grown to be comfortable and one of my go-tos for casual to formal events.”
Or if you want to go a more simple route, you could follow Teagan Widmer’s advice when she wrote about the problems she and many other trans women had with Chrysalis, a brand of lingerie designed for trans women and just, “go to your nearest Target. Buy a two pack of push-up bras ($24 for 2), and Target’s bra inserts ($12).”
Finding the right bra not only can help you feel more comfortable and make your outfits look better, but it can also help aleviate some of the dysphoria that you might be experiencing. Although it can seem intimidating at first, finding the perfect bra for you is ultimately a great feeling.
Header by Rory Midhani
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
I was so sad about bra week because I thought I’d already covered the only advanced bra out there— the bra that can detect cancer. Turns out, though, there’s a bunch of bra 2.0 out there. And they are as crazy as you imagine they would be.
Yes. You read that correctly. Japanese company Ravijour invented a concept piece (as in, not for purchase thank God) earlier this year. Basically, the bra measures your heart rate and then unhooks in the front when that heart rate falls in line with what this company deems is true love. It is aptly called the True Love Tester. Here is the video explaining all the “science”:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Wd831gUt4
Just remind me not to wear this when I’m climbing the stairs to my apartment.
via NDTV Gadgets
Microsoft has developed a bra that uses a GRASP (yes) board and sensors to detect when the wearer is feeling stress. If it works as well as other Microsoft products, that means it doesn’t do that at all. Ostensibly, the benefit of such a bra is to prevent stress eating by letting the user know that they’re stressed. I have my own internal sensors for this, such as the splitting behind-the-eye headache and a few external sensors as well — the fact that I had an entire chocolate cake in the fridge and now it’s not there anymore. But hey, this is probably an opportunity for my boobs to get the blue screen of death for no reason. Plus it could probably be used for other purposes when it does work, being that the bra measures heart rate and respiration, along with a few other metrics. Probably more worthy purposes than telling woman not to eat things. We have all of everything else in the world to do that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1hSNg37K38
This bra tweets when it’s unhooked. When I first heard about the existence of this bra, I was basically like nooooo, whyyyyy? But then I read further and it turns out that it was created by a Greek ad agency, OgilvyOne Athens, and it was just one—not mass produced. It was worn last October by TV personality Maria Bakodimou to promote breast self-exam awareness, as part of Breast Cancer Awareness Month. “Each time I unhook it, the bra automatically sends a tweet. Reminding women of their breast self exam,” said Bakodimou. “Our mission? To deliver the life-saving message to everyone!” The campaign is long over, but you can still see the tweets @TweetingBra.
via Hello Beautiful
The only thing in this round up that’s consumer technology and the only thing that is useful —if you hate shopping and going to malls as much as I do, you may be interested to know that heading to your local purveyor of bras isn’t the only way to make sure yours fits and to purchase new ones. Thirdlove is an online lingerie shop with an app that will size you up with the help of a few chesticle selfies. The app is free and the bras are not super expensive (they don’t, however, go higher than a DD. But they do half sizes in the cup and unusual band sizes!). The bras are also pretty and they have matching panties too!
This has been the seventy-fourth installment of Queer Your Tech with Fun, Autostraddle’s nerdy tech column. Not everything we cover is queer per se, but we talk about customizing this awesome technology you’ve got. Having it our way, expressing our appy selves just like we do with our identities. Here we can talk about anything from app recommendations to choosing a wireless printer to web sites you have to favorite to any other fun shit we can do with technology.
Headers by Rory Midhani
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
I am a huge fan of super cute lingerie. Despite my kinda basic and boring leanings in the underwear department, I love to wear pretty bras. Perhaps this is because I have been rocking them all day every day since third grade. THIRD GRADE, people. When did they stop growing? You know, I’m not entirely convinced they have stopped, to be honest.
Certain factors play into my relationship with lingerie, however. I don’t like those giant lacy contraptions that look like they are meant for a misogynist porn scene or something I’d find in my mother’s underwear drawer. I mostly wear lingerie for myself, because I’m into secret self-care like that, but I definitely want my partner to appreciate what I’ve got going on as well when she’s lucky enough to see it. I’m also embracing my tomboy/blue jean/lazy femme realness more and more each day. This means if I’m going to spend monies on something, it better be perfect for all of my skipping and hopping around the gender presentation spectrum. Can I wear it under a t-shirt? Can I wear it under a dress? Can I wear it with hiking boots? Okay, so the answer to that last one is most likely no, although I’m sure we could find a way to begin making hiking boots with lingerie akin to wearing stilettos with lingerie (that’s maybe the queerest sentence I’ve ever written).
Here are some types of bras I’m especially into right now.
1. LouLou Bustier Bra (from Nasty Gal) / 2. Strappy Back Bra (from Free People) / 3. Lux Underwire Bra (from Lonely Hearts) / 4. Hotwire Bra (from Nasty Gal)
These strappy bras are not super feminine but still detailed and purposeful, making them basically a tomboy femme’s dream. Let’s all agree that these bras are so damn hot. They’re badass sexy. Sexy badass. These strappy bras are meant to be shown off. In fact, when I saw Emily’s bra (which I’m pretty sure is a Marlies Dekker’s bra) in a recent Pretty Little Liars episode, I was so smitten by it showing that I couldn’t stare at anything else. Can you blame me?
I’m sorry is there even a show going on here? I’m too distracted.
I love the idea of them peeking out from under a shirt. What a great detail to any outfit without being too blatant. And for the record, they also just look amazing without a shirt, so.
1. Goddess: Keira Banded Satin Bra (from Bare Necessities) / 2. b.tempt’d by Wacoal: Sheer Delight T-Shirt Bra (from Bare Necessities) / 3. Soft Satin Bra (from Topshop) / 4. Only Hearts Whisper Bralette (from HerRoom) / 5. Cosabella New Soire Push Up Bra (from HerRoom)
Lace is so overrated. For a hint of what’s beneath the fabric, cut right to the chase and show it with a little see-through panel of sheer fabric. I like it in small amounts to hint at what you’ve got going on. It’s gorgeous when it’s in a matching color, but it also looks great with a coordinating color, like in that sky blue and white little number up there. Simple and sublime, it’s just the right amount of seductive without just being naked.
1. Zinkie: Lillie Bralet (from Journelle) / 2. Chevron Bra (from Light Years) / 3. Blake Bralet (from Zinkie) / 4. Sparkly Soft Bra (from Topshop) / 5. Facet Bra (from Light Years)
Wait, you mean we don’t have to sacrifice our firstborn child to the gods to have comfortable AND sexy lingerie? I love the simplicity of all of the comfortable bras. The beauty is in the details. The purposeful details of a front closure (no, seriously, let’s all take a moment to appreciate number three), a tiny hint of detailed edging, and just straight up sparkles are so charming and keep these bras from being ordinary. They look like you could wear them under your favorite vintage tee and then surprise even yourself with how hot you look once that tee comes off. I won’t judge you if you feel the need to peek down the front of your shirt and marvel at how good these bras look and feel.
Header by Rory Midhani
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
By Sonny Oram
Welcome to Binding 101! Whether you are considering binding for yourself, have been binding for years but want to learn more about binder brands and health, or want to prepare to support your friends and loved ones, you’ve come to the right place. I’m going to include my own experiences with binding as well as a crowdsource of favorite brands, care tips, and health advice.
Breast Binding is the practice of using a tight undergarment to flatten your chest. People may bind if they have body dysphoria, if they like wearing men’s clothing and want it to fit better, if they are performing drag, if they want to pass as male, or for other reasons. People with all sorts of identities bind.
Here’s Qwear writer Bing demonstrating how binding helps her clothes fit better.
It’s generally good to stay away from these practices because it can cause scarring to your skin, hurt your mobility, and can be the cause of fluid build-up in lungs or even broken ribs. Ace bandages actually get tighter every time they stretch (i.e. when you breath) and breathing is important, guys. Ace bandages can also easily come loose and have to be redone, and don’t hide very well under thin clothes.
If you end up using these methods once in a while — for a performance, for example — you’ll probably be fine. But if you are planning on binding more often, I recommend obtaining a real binder.
Try a few of the brands I’m about to recommend, as everyone’s body is different, and it can take time to find the right binder for you. Some people are sensitive to different types of materials, for example, if you find one brand itchy, another brand might be just fine. If you can, try borrowing one from a friend to try it on before you buy it.
Binders will be a little tighter at first, and stretch out after you wear them for a few days. When you try it on, it should feel tight, but not so tight that you can’t breathe. Try a few different shirts on over it to see whether you like the look of it, and take notes of how the seams show. You may also find that you prefer one brand for working out, and another brand for maximum flatness during the day.
Wearing flattening sports bras is a form of binding. In the long term they are safer for your lungs and ribs, but they won’t flatten as much as a real binder. Since I happen to have BINDERS OF QUEERS at my fingertips over at Qwear, I asked them which sports bras are the most effective at flattening your chest. People like:
Comment below with more brands you like.
There are several websites that sell binders intended to create as flat a look as possible. I’ve surveyed the queers, and their favorites are:
Les Love Boat: A shop based in Taiwan with many pullover, zipper, and velcro binders. They offer discreet packaging as well. They also make special binders for swimming, which absorb less chlorine! Queers across the board responded that Les Love Boat are superior in comfort to other binder brands and easier to put on and take off, but also noted that they don’t flatten as well as others. People especially recommend the High Performance Binder, and Air Max.
T-Kingdom: Another company based in Taiwan that ships across the world in only 10-15 days and carries a wide variety of compression tops. Most people gave positive reviews and like the 801. It fits smaller people with A or B cups best.
Oh look, there I am with LK Weiss of Jack Tar 207 wearing my Underworks Tri-tops binder under a tee, and you can hardly tell it’s there!
Underworks: Based out of Miami and carries reshaping undergarments, with a large section devoted to breast binders. People (including myself) prefer their Tri-top binder, noting that the full body binder bunches up too easily. They also carry a few binding swim suits. Unfortunately, shipping internationally with Underworks gets expensive. Reviews report that Underworks binders bind really well but are the less comfortable of the brands, and harder to get on and off. Some people report back and skin issues with them. People with larger chests complain that it can be quite painful, even causing the need for painkillers.
Lesbian Tomboy T-Shirt Undershirt Slim Fit Chest Binder Vest Tops Tank M-XL
Tank Top Binders from Ebay: Many people mentioned tank top binders from Ebay to me for the first time. They are quite afforable ($8.99 + shipping) and they look excellent to be worn just as a tank top in the summer time. They also come in fun colors, with contrast sleeve rings. Qwear writer Courtney Stirn notes of her Tank Top Binder: “It’s honestly more comfortable than a sports bra. There isn’t any elastic and it’s very easy to get into (and out of) compared to my friends’ Underworks stuff. The only issue I’ve found with it is that the fabric doesn’t breathe as much as traditional athletic fabrics. It seems like it might ride up on some folks (because of the lack of elastic) but that hasn’t been a problem for me. It does seem to ride just a bit when I’m being more active or when it’s been worn repeatedly and getting more stretched out, but nothing major or uncomfortable. I’ve worn it for entire days, multiple in a row with no pain or strain and honestly I feel like I could sleep in it if I wanted.”
Most binders are made of elastic materials that can easily wear down if washed in hot water and put in the drier.
However, it’s still important to wash your binders regularly, especially in the warmer months, to get rid of all the sweat, germs, and oil that can transfer onto it from your skin. This will lessen the risk of rashes and itchiness.
Every binder website I listed includes washing and care details specific to their binders. But, this is generally what you can do:
You can either wash your binder on a delicates or gentle cycle, in cold or warm water with materials of similar weight. If your binder has clasps, close the clasps to prevent them from catching on other things.
Or you can handwash your binder in the sink with a little detergent and warm water. Rinse it thoroughly to make you sure get out all the soap, and then hang it to dry.
Hanging your binder is generally better than putting it in a drawer because it helps maintain its shape.
(Many thanks to Guest Blogger, Logan for sharing much of this information with me in Intro To Binding: Health, Brands, And Care Tips via Qwearfashion.com)
We often talk about the health risks in involved with binding, but we don’t always address the significant improvement it can have for our mental health, and thus our overall health. It would be irresponsible of me not to tell you that:
Though I personally am aware of all these facts, I still bind all day long and when I exercise, and even when I’m in my room alone, only taking it off to shower or sleep. The confidence, energy, comfort, and joy that I’ve grown to love in my life since I started binding outweighs any of the physical discomforts and health concerns it brings me. However, some people struggle with different types of physical issues around binding, and everyone should make the best choice for themselves. If you are feeling at all lightheaded as a result of binding, you should remove it and try a different size or brand. I used to have a binder from Underworks that was too small which I couldn’t wear for more than half an hour at a time without feeling lightheaded. It took me a while to realize that it wasn’t supposed to be that tight. Now that I have the size up, I never have problems wearing it all day.
Binding for the first time can be scary, because you might be unsure about how people will react to your newly flattened chest. It can still be scary to imagine navigating those comments for the first time. If you are nervous about this, try preparing some answers in case these questions do come up. “I’d prefer not to discuss my undergarments,” will probably do the trick, but you could also take a lighter approach and ask them what kind of underwear they’re wearing.
We can have a lot of anxiety about binding because it’s not something people often talk about outside the queer community (how I would have loved for my mother to offer buying me a binder rather than a bra while I was growing up!), and there are many misconceptions about the identity you must have if you bind. Whatever your relationship is to your binder, just remember that you are normal.
Some people bind on certain days depending on what they’re wearing or what their feelings around their chest are on that day. Getting used to your new appearance can be scary at first. I was terrified when I tried on my first binder and thought it made me look too macho. But later on I tried it again and felt just right. Sometimes our initial reaction to a new appearance can be different than how we feel later on. Be gentle with yourself and take some time to explore your options.
Best of luck, and I’ll be sure to answer any questions you have in the comments!
Sonny Oram is the founder and editor-in-chief of Qwear fashion.com, a Boston-based style blog for queer women, trans* people, and the dappers who love them. For their work with Qwear, Sonny has been interviewed for Fashionista.com, Huffington Post Live and was featured in Go Magazine’s 2013 100 Women We Love, as well as in the Spanish magazine, MagLes.
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WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
Given that my blog is called The Lingerie Lesbian it should be no surprise to anyone that I think that lingerie is the loveliest, shiniest thing in the whole world and I like nothing more than acquiring much too much of it. However, the truth is that it can be more than a bit intimidating to shop for, especially if you are just starting out. To get you started, here are 6 things that I always try to think about when I’m lingerie shopping.
Lingerie shopping can be hard because it’s such an intimate, personal piece of clothing that it can bring out a lot of difficult feelings. However, unless it’s way outside your budget, it never hurts to just try something on to see if you’re the kind of person who definitely needs a black lacy slip. Or ouvert knickers. Or a strappy bra. (Or you may discover that you need all of these things and you can join me on the dark side, i.e. people who care way too much about their underthings.)
Left: useless (Parfait by Affinitas). Right: excellent (Kiss Me Deadly)
This may seem bizarrely specific, but I have made this mistake before and it has led to circumstances so dire that I had to remove my stockings in the middle of the street in freezing January because I couldn’t bear it any longer. It was not pleasant. This may seem like common sense, but if you buy anything that pulls downward (like a garter belt/ suspender knickers) make 100% sure that it is successfully anchored at your waist or you will regret it and your knickers will end up bunched around your knees in public.
Ewa Michalak S Pieprzyk set, 30F – 42JJ
As many of you know, the internet is a weird and wonderful place full of things you don’t even know you’ve been missing and many of those things are lingerie. If you are outside the size range you see in your nearby stores, don’t despair! Actually, if you are looking for something specific, shoot me an email and I can help. As Hamlet would put it, “There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your Victoria’s Secrets.”
This may seem like common sense, but I have made this mistake way too often to count and am left with things that are really pretty but are the wrong shape/color/texture. If you are into the whole trousseau/bridal lingerie concept, this is an especially good plan!
Comfort means different things to different people, so whether it’s choosing materials that feel good, shapes that make you look amazing or something that affirms your gender identity, don’t let a pushy salesperson, a partner or a shopping buddy push you into anything you don’t want to do. Underwear is a private, individual thing — so make sure it’s something that makes you feel awesome.
I know, I know, this is such a cliché thing to write. But honestly, what exactly is the point of ‘lingerie’ if not to have fun? Yes, there are utilitarian purposes to bras and briefs, but when you get into the fancy, unusual stuff, you get to be the egomaniac that you’ve always wanted to be and choose exactly what tickles your fancy.
Header by Rory Midhani
Feature images by Robin Roemer
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
I’m gonna get that bra off you so fast, girl. What is that, a strapless half-cup padded Princesse Tam Tam? While you’re registering your surprise that I know that, look in my left hand, because here it is. Bam. That’s right, I’m the Florence Griffith-Joyner of bra removal. I do it so fast, people suspect performance-enhancing drugs are involved. They’re not. I’m the cheetah of bra removal, the peregrine falcon, the sailfish. I unhook that shit so fast, I use my spare time between when I do it and when you notice to research the fastest animals on the planet. Did you know sailfish generally keep their characteristic erectile dorsal fins folded down as they race through the water at up to 110 km/h? I’ll tell you what won’t be folded down after your bra comes off, baby: my erectile dorsal fin.
While you were trying to figure out what I meant just now, I redid your bra, undid it, and redid it again. Oh, and I removed the bras of your best friend, sister, and grandma. Your grandma’s dead? Nope, you just haven’t heard from her in a while because she’s been in shock over how quickly I take bras off. Hers had seven hooks. I undid them all, faster than you can say “channeling and underw–”
Oops, too slow. While you were getting that out, I went back in time and took off your bra three days ago.
You’ve heard of nanoseconds, right? How about DeAnne-o-seconds, because that’s how fast I’m freeing your flappers. You don’t call them flappers? Okay. It’s a good thing your kazonga cage is out of the way, then. We’ll have plenty of time to sensitively discuss how you’d like me to refer to your sweet, sweet sweater melons. Chimichangas? Quinoa cupcakes? Small batch bourbon bonbons? It’s up to you, baby.
I’m faster than the speed of the light when it comes to getting those gum drops out of their packaging. I remove your bra so quickly, I put the “yonic” in tachyonic particle. It doesn’t bother me in the least that tachyonic particles are hypothetical, or that most physicists don’t think they exist because they’re not consistent with the known law of physics. I’ll tell you what, most physicists have not yet experienced the thrill of me taking off their bras. I feel sorry for them. Their big bangers need to breathe.
According to researchers, 80-85% of women are in the wrong bra. According to anagrams, 80-85% of women are in the wrong bar. According to me, 80-85% of women are right where I want them: completely astonished at how swiftly and effortlessly I remove their bras. The other 15-20%? They don’t wear bras, because they already know it’s pointless if I’m around.
I’ve got techniques. I do it with one hand. I do it with no hands. I do it with my feet. I do it with my teeth. I do it with the power of my mind. You know how you took off your bra last night, as soon as you walked in the door, snapping the front clasp through your t-shirt, then sliding the straps off your shoulders and arms, pulling it out your sleeve? Yeah, that was me. It was my idea, and I did it with your hands. That’s how good I am.
Like Muhammad Ali says, “It’s not bragging if you can back it up.” I back it up. Now why don’t you back it up and let me at that bra, girl. You’ll be outta that thing faster than I can point out that there’s a huge difference between my goodhearted sexual objectification of your breasts during consensual sex in order to pleasure us both, and the sexual objectification that results from a capitalist, patriarchal, media-dominated culture, which reduces women to parts and denies them autonomy over their sexuality while claiming ownership over their bodies. What I’m saying is: I’ll take off your bra lickety split, babe. Lightning-fast. Don’t blink or you’ll m–
What’s that? You’ve already taken it off?
Well, can you help me with mine then? This clasp is kind of tricky.
Header by Rory Midhani
Feature image via Shutterstock.com
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
In honor of Bra Week, Drawn to Comics is focusing on Busty Girl Comics by Paige “Rampaige” Halsey Warren. These usually one to four panel comics tell quick, often single moment, stories about the struggles that come from being a busty girl (or sometimes “busty person”). For those of you who consider yourselves to be in this particular demographic, or those of you who know someone who does, you probably already know that a lot of those problems arise from most bras not being built to suit your needs and stores deciding to not carry the few bras that actually do.
She’s great at having all sorts of busty girls. So often comics will have only white, cis and traditionally attractive characters. Even when people draw a lot of pictures of women of different sizes, they still often all have the same curves, the same hourglass shape. Or if they attempt diversity, they think that means five white characters, a black person and a Latino. That’s one of the things this comic does so well. It portrays women of all different races and ethnicities, cis people, trans people, fat women, skinny women, muscular women, muslim women, queer women, straight women, women with armpit hair and women with stretch marks. The comic brings all of these people together over their shared bustiness.
There are so many bra problems for busty people. Busty Girl Comics addresses everything from not being able to find the right size, to the pains of underwire, to the fear that comes from being afraid that washing your one bra that fits perfectly will ruin it all the way to the struggles of finding a sports bra that actually does what it’s supposed to. I’m sure most of us can relate to at least a few of these comics, even if we don’t normally consider ourselves to be extra “busty.” Many of the problems Warren covers come from the Male Gaze and the limits that the fashion industry places on women’s bodies. Because of the wide array of problems she covers, the comic is always creative and exploring new grounds. If you go through a couple of comics without being able to relate to them, you can be sure that you’ll be nodding your head in solidarity any minute.
Not everything is bad for busty people though. There are plenty of instances where Busty Girl Comics shows the brighter side of being busty. You’ve got a free place to put your cell phone, when you actually do find a bra that fits the feeling is amazing and you can make dresses look absolutely stunning. Warren makes sure that the comic isn’t all dreary and breaks up the “problems” with “perks.” Also, things never get totally down, because Warren makes sure that the comics, even when they’re showing the bad side of things, she always remains optimistic and body positive. The people that she draws may look exasperated or annoyed, but they never look defeated.
While the comic has ended it’s run, it lasted for a whopping 300 comics, so there’s plenty there. And there’s plenty there for everyone. You might think that this comic is just about busty people who are otherwise skinny, or maybe just plus-size gals, or maybe you think that you have to be a certain size to be considered busty. However, as Warren points out, “if you ever feel like you’re encumbered by your breasts (if they ever get in your way, make you feel awkward, etc.) then you’re busty! There isn’t a line where one size is busty and the next size isn’t. ‘Busty’ depends entirely on the person.” Even if you don’t ever feel that way, you can still enjoy these comics for the fun, intelligent and cute things that they are. The art is colorful and vibrant, and the people’s expressions are spot-on. You might think that reading 300 comics on the same topic might get boring, but Warren deftly manages to avoid that.
Warren is even so helpful that she provides tons of links to bra resources and online stores where you can buy bras that fit all types of bodies. She also has a store where you can buy not only books of the comics, but also shirts and pins. Now that Busty Girl Comics is done, Warren lives in Burbank, California and has a new webcomic called AHTspace, about a group of artists who share a studio space in Massachusetts. A great way to keep up to date on everything she’s doing is to check out her website, Paige One Comics.
Welcome to Drawn to Comics! From diary comics to superheroes, from webcomics to graphic novels – this is where we’ll be taking a look at comics by, featuring and for queer ladies. So whether you love to look at detailed personal accounts of other people’s lives, explore new and creative worlds, or you just love to see hot ladies in spandex, we’ve got something for you.
If you have a comic that you’d like to see me review, you can email me at mey [at] autostraddle [dot] com.
Header by Rory Midhani
WELCOME TO BRA WEEK! This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
“Bra” is an abbreviation of brassiere, a French word with a restless and (mostly) breastless history — it comes from the Latin bracchium, for “arm,” via Old French braciere or “arm guard.” The French brasseire originally meant a military chest plate, and today is generally used to denote a baby’s undershirt or a life preserver. Along the way it briefly meant a particular type of undergarment, but the most common French word for “bra” today is soutien-gorge, or literally “breast-supporter.” That straightforward descriptiveness is true of most languages — in Esperanto a bra is a mamzano or “breast-belt,” and it’s a BH, or bust-holder, in German, Swedish, Danish, and Dutch. And English-speakers might be going BH shopping too, if not for a French actress, some enterprising advertisers, and the miracle of rubber thread.
OH I SIMPLY LOVE YOUR BRASSIERE
Sarah Bernhardt has been called “the most famous actress the world has ever known” — partially because she spent a lot of time on extensive and lucrative tours of said world. For one of her most famous roles, as Tosca in La Tosca, she was costumed in “directoire style,” which combined the “narrow, sleek lines and a higher waistline” of 18th century French fashion with more 19th-century corset designs. By 1893, those in the know in America were style-thiefing Bernhardt, which required a particular type of corsetry. As explained by a columnist for the Syracuse Evening Herald, “those ladies who wish to be in the real absolute fashion are adopting for evening wear the six-inch straight boned band or brassiere.”
SARAH BERNHARDT AS TOSCA
That’s the first recorded use of the word in an American publication. The word didn’t catch its real stateside break until 1904, when the DeBevoise Company decided to spice up its selection of “bosom supporters” and “foundation garments” with a product that sounded less utilitarian and more, well, French. Their rechristened and well-advertised line of brassieres sold well — wouldn’t you prefer a Cambric Brassiere to a Cotton Mesh Bust Confiner? — and soon other companies had followed suit.
39 CENTS?!? I’D SMILE TOO
This rebranding overlapped with a change in attitude — the corset, in vogue for three centuries, was slowly being replaced by designs that were less restrictive and more supportive. In 1889, French inventor Herminie Cadolle introduced le bien-être (“the well-being”) — a two-piece gizmo with one part that squeezed the waist, and one part that held breasts up via shoulder straps and “rubber thread.” By 1905 the upper half was being sold on its own, often under the name brassiere. Within a decade, corset vs. bra was no longer just a linguistic preference. The two weren’t just different garments — they represented entirely different ideologies. Everyone from dancer Isadora Duncan to designer Paul Poiret “rebelled against the corset, which was becoming a potent symbol of women’s oppression.”
AS DEMONSTRATED BY KEIRA KNIGHTLY IN SO VERY MANY FORMATIVE SCENES.
Brassiere became a legally recognized term in 1914, when Mary Phelps Jacob patented her design — which, legend has it, she came up with after improvising with a ribbon and some handkerchiefs, because her go-to corset wasn’t cutting it under a sheer evening gown. As the brasseire blew up, the word got snipped down in the Great Abbreviation Wave of the 1930s (Gr8 Abbrev ~ ’30s), suffering the same fate as pajamas and “sealed with a kiss”. By 1932 everyone was calling it the bra.
VERY EDUCATIONAL
And we haven’t stopped! Though we’ve expanded our repertoire to sports bras (originally “jogbras”) and training bras (a phrase that still makes me laugh), and borrowed from the French again with “lingerie” (which also makes me laugh… soon we’ll strip it down to “linge” and have to steal a whole new word), “bra” has kept its shape for nearly a hundred years. And it’ll probably stay strong for another hundred, unless the male models take it away.
This has been the thirty-third installment of More Than Words, where I take queer words of all sorts and smash them apart and see what makes them tick. Every week I dissect a different word, trying to figure out where it came from, how it has evolved, where it might be going, and what it all means. It’s like reading the dictionary through a prism. Feel free to send word suggestions to cara@autostraddle.com.
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Once upon a time, a glorious thing happened on Autostraddle called Underwear Week. We spent basically a month discussing our favorite underthings — Underwear For Your Masculine Center, Boyshorts & Girltrunks 102, Plus-Size Underwear For All Gender Presentations, Femme-ish Underwear Realness, Thongs 101 and so much more. We sewed and ate and drank our underpants to our heart’s content. We had such a good time without our pants off that many of you suggested we considered taking our shirts off, too, and give some attention to the other half of your bra-and-panties set. Although we did a fairly epic Bra Issue back in 2011, so many things have changed since then!
So: WELCOME TO BRA WEEK. This week and next, the Autostraddle writers and some special guests will be giving you the scoop on over-the-shoulder-boulder-holders and otherwise-inclined chest-covering situations — fashion, history, feelings and so much more.
Let’s kick off with a gallery, eh?
Header by Rory Midhani