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The old joke is that Madison is “77 square miles surrounded by reality,” a conservative dig at Madison’s well-earned reputation for being an exceptionally progressive community. But gosh darn it, we like it here for a reason. Though it certainly has its problems, the truth of the matter is that Madison is a great little city. Or a great big town. We can never really decide which.
I’ve lived here since 2000, when I sort of randomly picked a school (Edgewood College) in the city because I wanted to live with two of my older friends who were already at the university and because I’d been living in Oklahoma for the past two years and walking through downtown Madison for the first time, with its coffee shops and feminist bookstore and alternative lifestyles on vivid display, was a bloody revelation.
This was the first city that I chose for myself, and I’ve never looked back. This is home, and for good reason.
Nightlife/Dating: Events on the reg’
It’s not a stretch to say that things can get a little… incestuous… in our dating scene. It’s a city of just 237,000, so narrow that down to the queer percentage and, well, some swapping/overlap is to be expected. If you’re younger, however, the constant rotation of college and grad students through the town maintains a nice mix. And if you’re older, Madison is a great place to put down roots. In fact, I’d say that’s the main thrust of queer life here – demographically we have far more female-identified LGBT residents than men, and a lot of people cohabitating and/or raising children.
Cheers With Queers (1524 Williamson St.)
Pretty much is what it says: A monthly happy hour (usually with a theme – the last one was “Golden Girls”) at one of the most notorious/awesome east side watering holes, Mickey’s Tavern, which also hosts a lot of live music (always free) and serves remarkably good food. The crowd generally at CWQ skews toward younger queer women. Held on the first Thursday of each month.
Nightlife/Dating: Nightclubbin’
The good news is that you and your alternative lifestyle are going to be perfectly welcome at almost any establishment in Madison (barring a few of the more heavily college bro-oriented places along University Ave. on campus, or some of the stuff on the outer fringes of the city). There are a number of great venues for live music, too: The High Noon Saloon, the Majestic Theater, the Barrymore Theater, the Frequency, Mickey’s Tavern, and the list goes on and on. The bad news is that in terms of more specifically LGBT-friendly and/or LGBT-specific spots the list is short but relatively all-inclusive. We simply don’t have the population size to support gender- or orientation-specific clubs.
Plan B (924 Williamson St.)
It’s a beautiful club with a hit-or-miss vibe. Lots of straight folks cruisin’ up in here, especially on “Ladies Night” (first Fridays). Music tends toward Top 40 dance hits, though the occasional touring (or local) DJ will come in and shake things up (like when KittyBump comes in from MN, and aaaalll the queer ladies come out). Also features regular drag performances from the talented Davina DeVille and her crew, and several other area performers, a “dirty” trivia night on Tuesdays, and an 18+ college night every Thursday.
The Inferno (1718 Commercial Ave.)
Venture a mere 5 minute drive from downtown to the near North Side for this great “alternative” club, which has the reputation as being our resident goth bar, but also does a whole lot more. Yes, you can catch the latest and greatest electronic/industrial/EBM acts at the Inferno – but also monthly shows from the Peach Pies Caburlesque troupe, first Saturdays “Leather & Lace” intro-to-fetish parties, punk shows, stand-up comedy nights, and let’sbehonest I’m producing a queer dance party every third Saturday of the month starting in January called REAL QUEER, so you should probably check that out.
Five Nightclub (5 Applegate Ct.)
Formerly known as Club 5, this baby lives a little further off the beaten path, toward the South Side, and has been around for what feels like forever. The crowd tends to lean toward the male end of the spectrum, and often hosts some of the bigger name drag queens when they come around on tour.
Woof’s (114 King St.)
It originally billed itself as a gay sports bar, but it’s pretty much a bear bar. There are carved wooden bears out front, in case you weren’t sure. They don’t hate on ladies who come in for drinks (unless you act like a jerk, I guess), but you will be very much in the minority here and might earn a side-eye or two.
The Shamrock (117 W. Main St.)
It wouldn’t be right if Madison didn’t have its own gay dive bar. Which isn’t to say that this place is gross – it’s just, well, it looks a lot like the other million dive bars that dot the Wisconsin landscape, but filled with queers, and I kind of love that about it. Get your Friday fish fry fix here, too, as well as surprisingly good brunch on Saturdays and Sundays – dance parties, friendly bartenders, and a generally good/mixed vibe. Also apparently the place has been around since 1898? I did not know that until I just looked it up. History!
Restaurants/Cafés
Madison boasts an incredibly high number of restaurants and, yes, bars – with a big focus on local vs. chain. My list below skews heavily toward the downtown/near east ‘hoods, but if you want a bigger picture check out the Isthmus’ online dining guide (Isthmus is our local alt-weekly rag), which has reviews but also a way to search for restaurants by location, meal type, and cuisine.
There are good options for every meal/drink you might be hankering for, but I have to say that what we excel at is breakfast/brunch. So, y’know, pretty queer. We’ll start there and work our way through the day:
Lazy Jane’s Café (1358 Williamson Street)
Mon-Thu 7am-3pm, Friday 7am-2pm, Sat & Sun 8am-2pm
Situated in the heart of the hippie/bohemian near east side, this breakfast (and lunch) spot is an absolute institution in Madison. It’s cozy as all get-out (basically a converted house), has great food and bakery (including a few vegan options), and the cooks positively scream your name out when your food is ready. Resist the urge to give your name as “Stella” or “Adrian” (or don’t). Cash only, totally worth it.
Manna Café & Bakery (611 N. Sherman Ave.)
Mon-Fri 6am to 5pm, Sat 7am to 3pm, Sun 7am to 2pm (brunch only)
OK so full disclosure, I sometimes work here. But I can say with certainty that the breakfast/brunch is one of the best in town, and just about everything is made from scratch, no punches pulled. Try the oatmeal pancakes, or one of the eggs benedicts, and pretty much anything from the also-from-scratch bakery (which features several super tasty gluten-free items). If you’re Jewish and/or have been exposed to/fallen in love with some traditional Jewish foods, this is also a great place to be: bialys on weekends, challah and brisket and matzo ball soup on Fridays, rugelach all the time, and a lovely lox and schmear sandwich at lunch, among other things.
Monty’s Blue Plate Diner (2089 Atwood Ave.)
Mon-Thu 7am–9pm, Fri 7am–10pm, Sat 7:30am–10pm, Sun 7:30am–9pm
My personal take is that this place is a little overrated, but I know I’d get yelled at a whole lot if I didn’t include it in this list. The food is perfectly good, don’t get me wrong, and it’s a generally nice atmosphere—very retro chic—but it can also be insanely busy on any given day and the food is mostly standard diner fare. Very vegetarian friendly, though. Try the milkshakes – that’s where they really shine.
Willalby’s Café (1351 Williamson St.)
Daily 6am-1pm, plus 11pm-4am Thurs thru Sat.
A vegan-friendly, punk rock greasy spoon with very little pretense (so sometimes service is a little slow, but always friendly) and one of the only non-Denny’s places in town to grab a bite in the wee hours of the morning after you’re done getting crunk but aren’t yet ready for bed. Giant pancakes, vegan French toast, and the “bomblette.” Do it.
Weary Traveler Freehouse (1201 Williamson St.)
Mondays 4 p.m. to bar time, Tues. through Sunday 11:30 a.m. to bar time
The place without a sign out front – don’t worry, though, it’s worth finding. Lovely atmosphere, delicious late-riser brunch on weekends, and killer lunch and dinner (late-night, too) of mostly local and/or organic deliciousness. Suffering from a cold? Get their tom-ka tofu soup. It’ll (gently) kick the snot right out of you. Cold winter’s day? Order their homemade grog. Seriously.
Green Owl Cafe (1970 Atwood Ave.)
Mon. closed, Tues. through Sat. 11am – 9pm, Sundays 9am-2pm
Madison’s only vegetarian/vegan-specific restaurant (which is kind of weird, but then again, a lot of our restaurants have plenty of veggie/vegan options) – this place focuses more on meat-substitute cooking, but all of the food is tasty, and it makes for a great place to bring those squirrely, uncomfortable-around-vegetarian-food members of your family. The desserts, all of them vegan, are insanely delicious.
Merchant (121 S. Pinckney St.)
Mon. through Fri. 11am – bar time, Sat. 2pm – bar time, Sun. 5pm – bar time (with Saturday brunch during Farmer’s Market season, 9am – 3pm)
I cannot stress enough how amazing the cocktails at this place are. They call their bartenders mixologists for a reason (other than just to be a little pretentious). Lots of a great local spirits and taps, plus inventive drinks. They also serve super tasty, locally-sourced food. On the pricey side*, but worth the splurge. Great place for impressing the hell out of a date.
*When I say “on the pricey side” I mean “for Madison,” which means like $8-12 for a fabulous drink, which is peanuts in a most bigger cities.
Café Porta Alba (558 N. Midvale Blvd. – Hilldale Mall)
Mon. through Sat. 11am – 10pm, Sun. 11am-8pm
I had to give something on the West Side a shout-out, but this place doesn’t need to pull anyone’s arms. Great Italian food overall, but the gold medal goes to their authentic Neapolitan-style, wood-fired pizzas. Holy moly. Don’t share, just order one for yourself and go nuts.
The Willy St. Co-op (East – 1221 Williamson St., West – 6825 University Ave. in Middleton)
Daily 7:30am – 9:30pm
We love our coop (now with two locations). It’s one of the biggest co-ops I’ve personally ever seen, and features tons of great, Wisconsin-grown/produced products. There’s a juice bar, bakery (lots of vegan and gluten free options), and a deli where you can pick up all sorts of goodies, including a daily vegan entrée, sandwiches and wraps, fresh sushi, and so much cheese. Excellent salad bar, too, plus a large natural/homeopathic/groovy health and wellness section.
Honorable Mentions: Alchemy, the Old Fashioned, Brasserie V, a la Brasa, Lao Laan-Xang.
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I fell so hard for Madison last year when my gal and I did Wisconsin during just the most beautiful week in August, and I have been waiting eagerly for this City Guide ever since. And now it is here! And so wonderful! And makes me want to relocate immediately to Wisconsin all the more!
THANK YOU EMILY!
Don’t know where you’d be moving from but a year and few months ago we moved here from Chicago. My wife went to college here. Now in her 60s, the construction is everywhere with big developers with big ideas. Housing costs are insane and therefore rent. The only thing less expensive than Chicago is gasoline. Chill “city”/town good music. Good is the same everywhere. Expensive and boring. Sorry. I had such big hopes
You are the best Emily! I learned so many things about Madison, and I’ve been living here for over 5 years. Maybe I need to get out more.
We need to get a Mad-o-straddle group kickstarted! I want all the queer friends.
I am so down with this.
And yay! I’m super glad this guide is even helpful for people who’ve been living here. I’m still discovering new things every day and I’ve been at Madison for 12 dang years. :)
we should start a madison autostraddlers facebook group. :D
HERE! http://www.facebook.com/groups/530612153626302/
I love Madison! It really is the perfect city- bike friendly, queer friendly, not too big or small, with great people, food and music scenes. I only moved here 4 months ago but I’ve become the biggest evangelist for the city- everyone should move here.
Can’t wait to hear more about your new queer dance party, Emily!
I’mma just leave this here, then: https://www.facebook.com/events/123569911140288/?fref=ts
I graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Madison in 1987 and had my coming out there hanging out at Room of One’s Own, Cardinal Bar and Emily’s – now I’m homesick after reading this!
Madison totally seduced me when I moved there 4 years ago. Also queer: the university, the snow, the lakes, the bike infrastructure, farmers market. Attracts lots of sporty dykes, farm girls, vegans, grad students. And friendly Midwesterners.
I can’t believe I forgot to mention the Dane County Farmer’s Market (probably because it’s winter right now, so I’m not in that head space?). It’s the biggest producer-only market in the country, and totally amazing: http://dcfm.org/
Also yes, so much biking/bike infrastructure in Madison.
Forequarter! It’s not necessarily queer but it’s still delicious
Looking to relocate any suggestions on where to look ? Thanks Nan
Just a small addition but Willalby’s is no longer open for late night :(
Yeah I wrote this back in, like, November I think? and just read something about them scaling back their hours the other day. Boo.
YAY! Originally from in between Madison and Milwaukee and this guide brings me all the smiles. I used to hang out at Lazy Jane’s when I would visit my sister when she went to UW-Madison. awwwwwww this brings me all the feels!
If only IQ was still around….
Yay! I live in Madison and work at Lazy Jane’s! I’m kinda lacking in the queer friend market though. Straddler meet up? Also, Loose Cannon is a queer/safespace dance party the first Friday of every month at the Dragonfly Lounge.
Did that event just start up recently? Thanks for the heads up!
yeah, in october i think. i’m trying to find the facebook page but no luck!
My mission this year is to build a queer girl posse in Madison. Let’s hang out! Let’s do things!
I’m going to create a facebook Madstraddlers group. Add me as a friend and I’ll put you in the group!
facebook.com/emma.sams.568
I am so serious about this, you guys.
Thank you for reminding me that I have books to pick up from A Room of One’s Own. (They’re so great! YOU CAN ORDER THINGS THROUGH THEM ONLINE AND HAVE THEM SHIPPED TO YOUR HOUSE FOR ALL YOU SHY-STRADDLERS OUT THERE. BE AGORAPHOBIC AND STILL SUPPORT LOCAL BOOKSTORES. Why I didn’t do that this time, I’m not sure, but that’s neither here nor there.)
Bookmarking this baby for future reference. :D
Awe I love love love Madison!!! It’s the first city that I ever held hands with a girl in and felt comfortable :) Also: go Badgers! The women’s ice hockey team is so incredible and talented, I just love them. They are a dominant force and could probably beat the men’s team.
And I totally second the recommendation about A Woman’s Touch. I would also add that they have great and very fast service if you order anything online from them (you know, just thought I’d mention that for anyone who wants to support an women-run sex shop but can’t make it in person to Madison). The last time I ordered something from them it arrived very quickly with handwritten instructions for care and maintenance AND a follow-up email to make sure that it got to me safely and to make sure that the product was satisfactory. Can’t beat service like that!
I’d like to add a plug for Community Pharmacy under Health (full disclosure: I work there. And I love my job!) A worker cooperative and Madison institution for 40 years now, our store includes a full prescription pharmacy, supplements and herbs, homeopathics, chemical-free body care, and incredibly knowledgeable staff who will go above and beyond to help you make informed choices about your health care and product options. (Please check out our mission statement on our website: http://communitypharmacy.coop/about/mission-statement/) We’re very grateful for the continued support of all our regular customers, and would like to reach out even more to students and to the queer community. Thank you!
I just want to make a comment regarding the horrendous lack of ot seems every type of doctor.I was diagnosed with COPD. Moved up here many reasons but thinking it’s a city full of hospitals,etc. Kind of like having Northwestern hospital here. What a shock to wait 5 months. Once I finally got in there with my preexisting condition and was told I need to see a Pulmonary specialist soon. Three four months later and one emergency visit I’m going next week. No one can tell me why there are no doctors. Then I get harassed at a drug store for having prescriptions from out of state. Yeah. Odd,huh? I’m curious what and why?
If your car breaks down while running around doing all these fun things, don’t forget Dutch’s Auto Service. The women there will do right by your car and they host Queerspeak Open Mike.
D’oh! Just noticed you mentioned Dutch’s. Consider them seconded.
A great post from a great ally! Though you forgot to mention Crucial Twat Night and Loose Cannon in your nightlife/dating category!!!! Loose Cannon may be the best dance event we’ve had yet. And regrettably all other venues don’t offer gender neutral bathrooms.
I have to sadly admit that I hadn’t heard of either CTN or Loose Cannon prior to writing this – are there any links/info about either of them that you can post? I’m totally curious.
I’ve lived in Madison for three years now, and unfortunatly have only been to a few of these places. I love living here though, there is always something to do!
As someone who lives between MKE and Madison, I’m very grateful for this guide! I’ve been to a few of the places you mentioned, but never quite felt “in the loop”. Two of my all time favorite places to eat are Himal Chuli on State St. (the vegetarian momocha is crazzzyyy great), and Lao Laan Xang on Willy St. (I seriously want to bathe in their curry squash, OMG); I’ve been happily surrounded by queerdos many of the times I’ve eaten in those spaces. Also, on my awkward solo venture into Plan B, I was almost immediately welcomed into a group of lovely broads so I didn’t feel alone. Madison is such a great town.
I’m taking notes for my next visit- which, thanks to you, will be much sooner than later.
Thanks again!
As a member of the Sun Prairie High School GSA and someone who lives her weekends in Madison, let me just say I LOVE THIS! I learned a lot about our capitol and need to visit some of these spots! Books here I come!!!
Moving about an an hour and a half away from downtown Madison soon and I’m super excited to check it out now!
A Woman’s Touch has moved to a new location on Livingston. The Inferno closed due to gentrification, but The Crucible will open on New Year’s Eve (same kink and LGBT friendly folks.) Boulder’s Climbing Gym now has a monthly Queer Climb.
Gentrification is the removal of buildings to conform to a more upscale status. That area is the opposite of upscale. Nothing else is conforming there. The Inferno closed due to its regulars being elitist and highly abusive to any newcomers. Madison in general has a few things it never talks about.
Madison is similar to the Seattle Freeze. You are all a part of the same core “inferno” group commenting–do not deny this.
The Inferno closed as their regulars, like you Jessica, were rude to newcomers (like myself).
You and I talked on Facebook a lot, as I did others in this thread, but when I showed up in person, you snubbed me like high schoolers. Not only did you snub me, but you snubbed any newcomer unless they were a pole dancer (like Claire).
Madison is a very elitist, exclusionary place.
Those kink folks like Pro Odaul are abusive.
They are not LGBTQ friendly. myself and others were sexually assaulted at the INferno AND at Plan B during your L and L.
Do not even comment back. Your words are meaningless. So many of us are leaving this city who moved here like myself.
We were sucked in by BS articles like this (it was right around the time this article was written I moved here).
I am a lesbian. Unless my hair is short and butch, and I am poly, I am not welcome.
You are all so full of crap.
What is even worse, is that Emily had the fecking Chutzpah to write an article about Plan B after some men could not use a dressing room. Why was that not written after many femmes lke myself were assaulted there?
Exactly.
No one wants to visit your little regular groupie STD base. Catherine Oneil spread HPV through that place.
Thank god I never touched any of you.
Madison is gross. You are closed off and elitist like the seattle freeze. Unless people are pierced, shaved, or butch and poly, you reject all.
Several people, loving, caring , honest, and open people who moved here from Milwaukee like myself and others are leaving. You , Elly Fine (inferno regular) Emily–rollerderby–you all belong to the same “core” group here.
You have pushed out ANYONE who has tried to become friends with you.
My docs have left as soon as they moved here, my friends, and soon me. You care not. The people here are rude. You friend people on Facebook, you share your secrets with them, you confide in them, and then in person you snub them, and you act like high school.
You have done this to SOO many.
This place is rotten.
When I went to the inferno, I was talking to so many of you on FB after your “ringerleader” friended me from a dating site. You did this to others too. In person you told us to leave the inferno, that we were not goth enough.
You are not accepting people.
Most of the people commenting here are highly elitist, judgmental, and arrogant, not to mention antagonistic. You use people.
You all use people for drinks, sex, rides–whatever you can get.
This place is so polarized. NOtice how all of the new UW docs left in the last two years who just moved here? They couldn’t stand how they were treated here.
So many regret moving here.
What a bunch of hypocrites.