The Trick To Making Home Fries Perfect
by Varina
Ah potatoes, the starchy vegetable that makes the angels sing and the closest thing we have in this weary world to proof of a loving god (well, potatoes and Natalie Dormer). I mean, okay, so maybe you can – technically – hold a brunch without the some sort of crispy fried potato goodness (that, as a bonus, is both vegan and gluten-free), but like, why would you?
Maybe you’ve been burned by home fries in the past and aren’t sure you’re ready to trust again. You tried making them and they were a pain in the ass, burnt on the outside, raw on the inside, constantly sticking to the pan. It’s not the potatoes fault. The truth is most recipes for home fries are made of garbage. I mean, I’m not saying there is some international conspiracy trying to keep you from the goodness of perfect crispy on the outside creamy on the inside home fries actually made in your home, but look at the results. Well, I’ve seen every episode of X-Files (except the last two seasons because as every X-Files fan knows, they don’t count) so I’m fully prepared to bust any conspiracy wide open, and give you the secret.
So here’s the secret to easy and perfect home fries: cold, already cooked potatoes. It doesn’t make a huge difference what kind or how they were cooked as long as they’re whole. I think the absolute best is yellow potatoes that have been boiled whole, but if you have a leftover baked russet, that’ll work fine too. Since they are already cooked through you don’t have to worry about your home fries being underdone, and by cooling them you let them sort of chill and compose themselves, reabsorbing their starch (potatoes sometimes need emotional space to be their best selves too you know). They won’t stick to the pan as much and will have a nice creamy consistency.
The basic procedure (for two people, you can double, triple, or otherwise exponentially expand quantities for more, but don’t overcrowd your frying pan. If you are making a lot, fry in batches and keep the rest in a warm oven):
1/2 Lb yellow potatoes, such as yukon gold (or whatever you’ve got)
1 Tbsp salt, plus more to taste
1/2 an onion, diced (optional)
1/4 green bell pepper (optional)
1 clove garlic, minced (optional)
2-3 Tbsp oil
If you don’t have any leftover potatoes laying around: the night before you want home fries, put the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot with one tablespoon of salt, and cover them with cold water. Put on the heat on high and bring to a boil. Let boil until the potatoes are tender all the way through, 15-20 minutes. Drain potatoes and cool overnight in the fridge.
Now comes the magic. To peel the potatoes, pinch the skin and peel it cleanly away with your fingers. It should come right off. If it doesn’t, the potatoes either weren’t fully cooked or weren’t fully cooled.
Cut the peeled potatoes into chunks, of whatever size you like.
Now this next whole step is optional, and technically makes them Potatoes O’Brien, not home fries, but you know, whatever. They’re good that way. I myself usually skip the bell peppers because I rarely have them lying around. So: Heat pan (use a cast iron skillet for best results, failing that non-stick is best) over medium and put in enough oil to lightly coat the pan. Add onions and bell peppers and saute until the onions are nicely browned, then add garlic and saute another minute. Remove these to a dish and wipe any bits off the pan.
Return the pan to medium heat and add 2-3 Tbsp oil, enough to coat the pan heavily. Once it’s hot, add the potatoes in an even layer. Let them cook about 2-3 minutes without disruption, until browned on one side, then turn and let them cook 2 minutes on each of the other sides. Of course, I don’t really have the patience to carefully turn each cube of potato on each side, the key is really to leave them undisturbed for a few minutes between turns so it can form a nice brown crust, and to scoop up the potatoes and flip them with a spatula, like you would a pancake, rather than stirring them like oatmeal.
Return the onion mixture to the pan and sprinkle with additional salt to taste. Use a seasoned salt if you like. Stir it well and heat until the onions are hot again.
Serve. I like to garnish mine with a bit of fresh herb, chives or flat parsley are good, for a little visual interest on an otherwise mostly beige plate.
So, go forth and brunch, armed with wonderful starchy goodness suitable for soaking up some of those mimosas.
Next page: The one ingredient your bloody mary has been missing all along.
