As a dapper woman, I always feel my best in a crisp button-down. Check out my closet and you’ll see that I have more of them than slacks and cardigans combined; I’m determined to have them in every color and pattern imaginable!
Most of my button-downs come from the men’s section, so they’re not made for busts like mine. In the past, that meant crossing my fingers every time I tried on a new shirt, thinking, “Please, please, please, let it close over my chest!” But luckily, with a few years’ practice and perseverance, I’ve learned some helpful tips. Let me drop some knowledge on ya!
If at first you don’t succeed, try a different brand
When I was first coming into myself and my personal style, I tried everything from the women’s section, men’s section, and even the boy’s section (where I got a few looks from concerned moms). Through trial and error, I figured out which brands work for me and which don’t; off-the-rack names that give me minimal to no bust-area issues include Uniqlo, American Eagle, Penguin, Old Navy, Calvin Klein, Scotch and Soda, and Bonobos. And of course, I have to shout out to Kirrin Finch and Peau De Loup, both of whom make menswear-inspired button ups specifically to fit women.
In my experience, American clothing tends to run larger (especially in the armholes and shoulders), whereas European cuts (like at Scotch and Soda) or Japanese cuts (like at Uniqlo) tend to run slimmer or narrower. Personally, I prefer Japanese or European cuts for long sleeve button ups and Japanese or American cuts for short sleeve button ups. It just all depends on which cuts work best for you — and since personal style is a journey like anything else, you should try, try, try before you buy!
You deserve a good bra or binder
The right bra or binder can help redistribute/reduce the look of your breasts under a tailored shirt. Minimizer bras, which are designed to redistribute breast tissue and take an inch or more off of your bust, are one option. Personally, I found that even those accentuated my boobs too much for my comfort, so I wear a sports bra that offers compression and flattens out my silhouette. Finally, folks who want to more drastically minimize the appearance of breasts should try a binder! Many of my gender non-conforming and trans friends swear by gc2b and Underworks to keep their breasts out of sight and out of mind. Always do your research on binders before using them, and make sure you use them safely!
Double-stick tape is your friend
Have you ever tried on a shirt that fit perfectly… except for a gaping hole between the buttons around your chest? I have, and it sucks! For situations like this, invest in some double-stick tape; all you have to do is put your shirt on, apply the tape to the gaping area in between buttons, press down, and voilà! It should keep that area shut.
One downside I’ve found to the tape is that it can come undone on softer or stretchier fabrics; for a stronger, more permanent alternative, try sticky back Velcro. And of course, the tighter your shirt is, the harder it will be for either option to hold it together — so try to use it on shirts that fit well otherwise.
Okay, that’s it! If you have any tips of your own, leave them in the comments.
