Consider Cabin Rental Company Getaway for a Lowkey, Short-Term Queer Vacation

Feature image photo by Jecapix via Getty Images

Amid pandemic cabin fever — which has been especially intense for me as a high-risk person who needs to be more careful — my partner and I took a trip to an actual mini cabin called Getaway House. The initial appeal of the tiny cabin was that you didn’t need to interact with any other people if you didn’t want to. Check-in was remote, and the cabins had keyless entry, your closest neighbor was probably at minimum 30 yards away, often more, and though the cabins had instituted extra cleaning, it was small enough that we could bring our own disinfecting wipes and open all the windows to circulate fresh air. Importantly, they’re also dog friendly. It felt like a respite from the world and COVID when we needed it most. It also turned out to be an ideal travel option as a queer couple, and we’ve gone back several times.

Often when my partner and I travel together, we take extra precautions around gender expression, PDA, and public safety. We might book a room with two beds instead of one to avoid any awkward questions from the hotel staff. We try to be careful about the words we use for each other in public, saying something like “my friend” instead of partner or spouse and trying to avoid any cutesy nicknames. The virtual check-in and private nature of the mini cabins was an ideal situation for reducing our anxieties about safety as an LGBT couple because we didn’t need to interact with other people unless we chose to venture out into the world. There are no thin, shared hotel room walls, no check-in desk, and no cleaning staff entering the room daily.

Getaway House combines the minimalist appeal of the tiny house trend with glamping to give you everything you need to feel comfortable without feeling too removed from nature. They’re essentially spaced out on a campground, but they’re still fairly undeveloped. Aside from the campsite, which includes a spot to park, a picnic table, a fire pit, two Adirondack chairs, and an outdoor leash for a dog, the area surrounding the cabins is largely in woods with dirt or gravel paths and very little lighting. There’s a comfy bed surrounded by huge windows that always face away from your nearest neighbor, so if you want to keep the windows open and make coffee in your underwear — or whatever else comes to mind with a bed overlooking a forest — you can. There’s a small dining table, an adorable retro mini fridge, a small stovetop, a sink, and a few sets of dishes and cooking supplies. There’s a bathroom with running water and a shower.

The cabins can sleep two to four people — though the four-person option is a bunk bed over the main bed, so that it might be best for two children or one adult. If you bring your dog, they provide two bowls, poop bags, and a bag of treats. Getaway also has multiple accessible cabins at each campsite with a ramp entry and a space that’s easier for a wheelchair to navigate. I don’t use a wheelchair, but I am disabled and tend to book these cabins because steps can be hard for me, and there are a few large steps inside the regular cabins too that I struggled to navigate the first time I stayed at Getaway. Though these cabins are more accessible, I will note that it seems like the interior was planned by an able-bodied person, because some things like the towel rack and dish rack would be impossible to reach without additional help if you are not ambulatory or if you are a person of short stature.

When I first stayed at Getaway House near Shenandoah National Park, there were only a few locations, but lately, they’ve expanded across the country with locations across the continental U.S. (though they lack options in Mountain Time, they always seem to be growing). They’re generally located one to two hours outside a city and often close to a national park like Big Bear, Shenandoah, and the Adirondacks. It’s a great place for a very gay weekend of hiking and building campfires if that’s your thing. If not, there are probably local wineries, breweries, farm-to-table restaurants, lakes, or farms to check out, and Getaway usually has some recommendations for local businesses to visit. For the Shenandoah location, their website recommended an amazing ice cream place made with all local, fresh ingredients. It was delicious, and my dog loved that they offered pup cups. You can also fully unplug and do nothing; the cabin offers a “lock box” (it doesn’t lock) to put your cell phone if you need encouragement to disconnect.

Getaway can be expensive if you book individually, but they offer various discount options. Students, healthcare workers, and veterans get discounts, and there’s a loyalty program where you earn free nights. They also sell different “packs” that make it much cheaper, and you don’t have to use them all at once. So you could, for example, purchase a three-night pack and use it to stay for one night three times for $150 a night. My partner and I used a 3-night pack to stay on July 4 weekend without paying holiday rates. Getaway has also done some cool partnership programs. Artists can apply for a free stay to use the cabin as a space to unplug and create. They also partner with Rachel Cargle to provide free stays for Black activists in a program called A Year of Rest (we nominated a bunch of Autostraddle staff, so fingers crossed).

Over the last few years, my partner, our dog, and I have used these reduced-price packs and taken several trips to the Getaway near Shenandoah and got to explore new places, develop favorites, and see the mountains and the campsite in different seasons. In the fall, it’s nice to wake up to all of the changing leaves outside of your window and to spend the evening making s’mores around a campfire. We tried different trails, visited Charlottesville, and regularly went to the local dog-friendly Early Mountain Winery, which has beautiful views and COVID-friendly outside seating. We even learned that Shenandoah is famous for berry ice cream at one of the lodge restaurants and enjoyed it while overlooking an amazing view. Visiting Getaway has been a fantastic way to destress and spend time in nature in a way that feels safe and accessible.

Six Black Queer Travelers Share How They Attempt to Locate Community Around the Globe

After my girlfriend and I had to cancel holiday plans to Tanzania back in 2019 because we couldn’t guarantee our safety as an openly Black lesbian couple, I knew I never wanted to feel that despair and helplessness again. These feelings were spurred, not only from a safety standpoint, but also from simply not knowing how to connect with Tanzanian queer communities despite knowing that they very much exist. We constantly kept thinking that there must be something more than a cursory Google of ‘LGBTQ+ rights in Tanzania’ and that there must be other Black queer people who have been faced with this quandary before.

As a result, over the last year and a half, I’ve been working on the Black Queer Travel Guide (BQTG), primarily an app to help Black queer travelers navigate the world as safely as possible, with specific advice, information and local experiences. The project takes into account our whole selves and, while very much in the early stages, we’re building a digital resource that will offer more than white cis gay hotspots; one that takes into account the nuances of visiting the place your parents call home while knowing that your gender and/or sexuality could be the impetus for unprovoked violence.

Beyond an app or an organisation, BQTG is looking to build and develop community links. Last year, I carried out research through a survey on Black queer people and travel. With 93 participants, 90% shared that they are interested in connection with other Black queer people when they travel. The remaining question is ‘how?’ — one that we hope to answer with BQTG over the coming years.

Despite having this desire to connect, there are a whole host of reasons as to why finding other Black queer people on our travels can be tricky. I spoke to six Black queer people about why that is, alongside their personal experiences with travel and attempting to locate community around the globe.

A.I.D.

For A.I.D., the destinations they choose are often influenced by familiarity. “I’m a fairly infrequent traveler, usually choosing destinations that I’m familiar with (because I’ve been before) or know someone who lives there that can show me their version of the area.”

With Twitter, Instagram and Facebook as their main resources, the Black non-binary queer creative seeks out accounts, people, collectives and events that centre Black queer and trans folks. “In preparation for a now Covid-derailed trip to the West Indies that was planned for 2020, I had searched for and reached out and connected with some queer people living on the island I was visiting on through Twitter.” While finding these accounts online is relatively easy, they’ve found that the more challenging part is attempting to start a relationship with a stranger online in a way that isn’t overbearing or invasive.

Mila*

Traveling up to four times a year, holidays are all about simultaneously connecting with a new space and disconnecting from day-to-day hubbub for Mila. “Living in a small, predominantly white city in Canada – travel is how I remain connected with my friends as well as with more of a global Black and racialized communities. As someone that’s an immigrant as well, the journey of migration and being mobile keeps that drive in me to keep connecting.”

While the likes of Twitter and even Airbnb activities have been useful for scouting out what’s available in her chosen destination, Mila admits that locating other Black queer folks has been tricky. “It hasn’t been the easiest because most times, I don’t know where or how to start.”

Jed

Bad experiences with a solo trip at 16 coupled with the fears that come with being a Black queer trans man mean that Jed’s relationship with travel has been nothing short of complicated. “I started transition in my mid-twenties and had a fear of being detained or humiliated at customs. In 2020, I started traveling again – first to Europe with friends and then to Morocco by myself.”

This renewed zeal for exploring the globe has also sparked Jed’s interest in finding other Black LGBTQ+ folks when the world opens up again. “I’m excited to do it in the future. In Marrakesh, it seemed that the wealthier creative people felt free to be queer but I didn’t see any Black people among them.”

“I’m quite ignorant on what’s out there, however I’m not so sure it’s easy to find Black queer community while traveling simply because in many countries around the world queer people are not tolerated and therefore do not celebrate their community as openly on social media as we might do in the UK,” he adds. “It seems you’d need to know where to go or already have a connection to find Black queer community while traveling in a lot of places. I could be very wrong, of course.”

Christania

A bonafide explorer, Christania has been traveling since she was 2 years old, after her family relocated to Nigeria for a few years. “I was born in Jamaica so I prefer warmer climates and particularly enjoy traveling to hot countries where the pace of life is a lot slower and calm compared to the rat race in the UK. I went to Cuba with my partner in 2019 and having no internet access for 10 days was absolutely glorious.”

When it comes to holiday research, Christania turns to Google. “I usually Google the life out of the destinations that I want to visit,” she shares. “I purposely seek out travel blogs/Instagram profiles by Black women. I used to check Facebook groups as well to hear about the experiences of Black queer women in different countries.”

Finding Black queer communities on her travels has proved quite easy and Christania puts this down to the accounts she follows. “I follow non-UK/US Black queer people on social media. Once I find one person, I’m able to go down a bit of a rabbit hole and find the information I’m after.”

Imale

Being pushed outside their comfort zone is how Imale describes traveling, with Black majority countries being their favorite destinations. “I’m also open enough to venture as far as China to see just how different ‘different’ can get.”

Normally taking one big holiday to an African country alongside city breaks within Europe to change things up, Imale’s big holiday is normally decided off the back of rigorous research on YouTube and social media. “I have discovered that going to art events will turn up one or two queer people who are then welcoming into their world — I have connected with some amazing queer people in Zambia and Rwanda this way.”

Though Imale’s inventive arts world tactic has yielded success, it has only been as a result of recently changing their approach. “I think the difficulty lies in the fact that homosexuality is still criminalised in a lot of countries — for the purposes of safety, community members tend not to be as visible unless you are already a member of that community.”

Sadé

A lover of traveling, the queer non-binary photographer headed out on holiday at least twice a year before the pandemic. “I love city breaks but also warm coastal areas where the beach is easily accessible. I also love visiting places where there are stark cultural differences however these places are usually homophobic and/or racist.”

Much like many Black queer folks, Sadé’s main travel guide has been google ‘____ LGBT+ laws’ or trawling Twitter for peoples’ experiences. “I’ve never found a queer Black LGBT community abroad although I would love to, just like here you kinda need to know someone to get you in/know where the hotspots are. My partner and I went on our first holiday together last year to Lisbon, Portugal and the only Black queer people we found on the trip were a lovely older couple who took this photo of us.”

“I’m excited to use the Black Queer Travel Guide in future to help navigate new holiday destinations and also hopefully to connect with black queer communities abroad.”

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As more of the population gets vaccinated and we begin cautiously looking ahead to the world opening up again, that world needs to prioritize Black queer travelers. The Black Queer Travel Guide project is well underway, with a web app now live and demonstrating the first stage of what will eventually become an easily downloadable phone app. We’re also still fundraising on the Black Queer Travel Guide’s GoFundMe page to help get the project off the ground and begin commissioning Black queer creatives and writers, alongside applications for grants which will no doubt take up much of our year.

With the growth of Black queer-led initiatives and projects, an exciting and more accessible future lies ahead for Black queer and trans folks and Black Queer Travel Guide plans to be a part of that.

This Just In: Going On Vacation Is Relaxing and Fun!

I’m on vacation in New Orleans and y’all, it’s so nice! The weather is warm and humid, the people are friendly and generous, the food is next level delicious, and I’ve been getting more sleep than I do at home. It’s wild! I’m here with Rachel, one of my closest friends, and we were both reflecting to one another last night how fun and luxurious it feels to take a vacation with a pal, and how taking a break from your day to day life is such a gift to give yourself.

Something my therapist has been really advocating for recently is that I make space in my life for time when I am not actively or passively working. As a freelancer and a writer, I set my own schedule but it’s also incredibly difficult to feel as though I’m off the clock; I technically could be working at all hours of the day, so I end up doing a bad job of defining my work time and my play time. It results in bad work habits, exhaustion, and a total lack of pure play time…I’m always “sort of” working which everyone knows is not a great way to live. By making space specifically for play time, my brain understands that when we’re “at work” we are working hard and staying focused, and when we’re not “at work” we can relax. I’ve been follow Anne Helen Petersen’s research and writing on generational burnout since she wrote about it in January of last year and this all feels very related to that – everyone I know seems to be burnt out. We have to find ways to care for ourselves and grant ourselves a bit of grace, a bit of fun.

It’s not always realistic to take a full on vacation, but I’m going to try to keep this vacation energy present in my life this year and beyond. What are ways you take a breather from your regular life? What’s your favorite vacation you’ve ever taken? What are some affordable options you have to take a rest even when you can’t go on a full weekend getaway? Have you ever asked your best friend to take photos of you naked in a bubble bath drinking wine and eating donuts as a fun vacation activity? Just wondering.

PHOTOESSAY: Meet Me in The Keys

Last month, intrepid photographer Robin was included in a media research trip to the Florida Keys courtesy of LGBTQ Free to Be in the Keys and on behalf of the Florida Keys and Key West; now she’s including you on her journey through the magic of photography. Read with a key lime pie in hand for the full experience from home.

Key Largo

After a van ride from the airport in Miami, we arrived in Key Largo where our trip officially began. Shortly into our trip I would realize one of my fellow travelers was Dan from The Real World Season 5 Miami! And if you remember that, congratulations, you’re as old as I am and you deserve a vacation. Maybe to Key Largo! It’s here in Key Largo at Mrs Mac’s Kitchen that I tried alligator for the first time (it tastes like chicken) and was introduced to casual but quirky feel of this quaint collection of surfside towns.

Playa Largo Resort and Spa

If you’re looking for a resort that you literally don’t have to leave on your vacation, Playa Largo Resort and Spa is the place for you. There are multiple restaurants, bars, sports equipment rentals, a dock with boats, a giant pool and a beach with comfy lounge chairs and hammocks hanging under tall palm trees all within the resort’s extensive property. When we arrived we all had a drink at the front desk and checked into big, beautiful rooms that overlooked the pool and in the distance, the ocean.

Sol at Playa Largo Resort and Spa

I dined here on my first night after a very long flight and drive. Sol is a standalone beachside seafood restaurant on the property of Playa Largo; it’s a really lovely spot on the second floor where you still dress casually, sit back and enjoy the views. The fish was delicious and fresh. I would recommend arriving right before sunset.

Morning snorkel excursion with Rainbow Reef Dive Center, Key Largo

I cannot recommend this tour enough. A friendly crew who happily let us blast Lady Gaga took us on an extensive tour of one of the best snorkeling spots in the US. We went all the way to Molasses Reef, where we snorkeled around watching schools of fish darting in and out of swaying anemones. It was a mesmerizing and peaceful activity and only mildly terrifying when the barracuda swam by with their very pointy underbites. Pro tip: if you get seasick on a stationary boat bouncing up and down on waves like MOST of our group, down some dramamine before you hit the water! Or… strangely… eat an apple. Our crew had them on hand.

Key Largo Conch House

Conch House is a sweet, colorful spot with an outdoor patio and coy ponds. They’re famous for conch fritters, conch bisque and a selection of other affordable seafood. I didn’t get to try them, but the Key Lime Macadamia Pancakes also sounded incredible. Conch House had the second best key lime pie we had in The Keys, despite topping its pie with whipped cream as opposed to meringue.

Islamorada

Islamorada feels like a quiet sister of Keys while still embodying the general friendly openness this area is known for. We visited not one, but TWO breweries sandwiched between art galleries and beachy cottages. Islamorada is known for sport fishing and a host of other water activities and sports; and if you enjoy tossing dead fish at live fish, you can stop by Robbie’s Marina and feed the terrifyingly large tarpons.

Amara Cay Resort

Amara Cay is a sweet, no-frills resort that’s simple but elegant, right on the water in Islamorada. The pool and pool bar were a nice relaxing spot right next to a beach with lounge chairs that overlooked the ocean and hammocks hanging between palm trees. Everyone at Amara Cay was incredibly friendly and welcoming and the staff gifted us extremely overwhelming plates of cheese and fruit when we checked in. The best part was hanging out at the bar by the pool in the evening watching the sunset.

Florida Keys Brewing Co

Florida Brewing Company is a cozy brewery and bar with an outdoor garden where you can sit back in a brightly-colored adirondack chair and leisurely sip a beer like you’re in your own backyard. The brewery and bar are nestled in a neighborhood filled with tiny pastel-painted art galleries. If you can, do a tasting there and try some beer from their very extensive selection.

Painting The Keys

This activity is mostly geared toward wine moms, but like… aren’t we all a little bit wine mom? Painting the Keys was an activity they offer in the garden of the Florida Brewing company. There is something very calming about sitting down and putting paint on canvas to make a shitty re-creation of palm trees against a sunset, but that could have also been the effect of the beer. Below is the journey of my painting. Please don’t judge me, I was just doing what I was told.

Islamorada Distilling

Originally a distillery and now also a brewery, Islamorada Distilling offers a selection of rums, gin and beer that were delicious and refreshing. Try their most popular beer Coconut Key Lime Ale which was originally made by hand toasting coconut. If you prefer a sweet cocktail, try the Key Lime Pie Martini! On our way back home, the Key West airport was selling Islamorada Beer and we couldn’t resist.

Atlantic’s Edge at Cheeca Lodge & Spa

This was by far the best meal on the trip. The food was incredible. The very youthful chef brought us the most beautifully presented plates of inventive and thoughtful food I’ve had in awhile. The fish was so fresh and there were gold flakes on the sushi. GOLD. This is the kind of meal I want to eat every day.

Key West

The official motto of Key West, the queerest of The Keys, is One Human Family and you can tell walking the friendly rainbow crosswalked streets that it is a place that has for a long time been dedicated to acceptance and loving your neighbor. Key West was even the first town to elect a gay mayor back in 1983! On an evening stroll in Key West you will run into drag queens giving out flyers to shows and cabaret-style karaoke bars. And while some of these shows are geared towards the many straight cis folks pouring off cruise ships onto the islands, there still is a general queer vibe in the town. There are all male clothing optional guest houses, a gay bar named Maryellen’s where they have vibrator races, and the Key West Business Guild where you can pop in and talk to Frtizie about the many gay-friendly businesses to support around town.

Alexander’s Guest House Key West

Alexander’s is a perfect balance of a boutique hotel and a traditional B&B. It felt like at any time you could pop in for their homemade buffet breakfast or roll up to happy hour at the pool while still being able to have privacy and autonomy over your experience. If you’re like me and you prefer to be caffeinated before small talking with strangers, you can grab a muffin and a to-go cup and politely wave on your way out! They have great bikes you can rent, a gorgeous pool and jacuzzi, a clothing-optional sundeck and comfortable, clean, and chic rooms and shared spaces.

Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory

This place is magical. If you’ve never met a button quail, you need to drop everything you are doing and go meet one. Maybe also take photos and crawl around on the ground a bit saying things like “I love you so much, my little button,” until the people at the Butterfly Conservatory ask you if you’re ok and your friends think maybe you dropped a contact lens. Walk through as many times as you want and watch the thousands of butterflies, flamingos, and other magical creatures move around you and if you’re lucky, land on you as you try very hard to play it cool.

Sunset Sail with Blu Q Charters

Blu Q Charters was originally an all-male clothing-optional sailing company, but recently they have opened their very gay Sunset tours to other folks and I for one am grateful because it meant we could all go out on the water with some gays and some wine and take in the sights from a catamaran.

Southernmost Food Tour with Key West Food Tours

This was a highlight for many of us! Our guide took us to some really amazing spots including an incredible Cuban breakfast at El Siboney, fantastic drinks at The Speakeasy Inn & Rum Bar and delicious fried conch fritters at Mangoes while learning about the history of the island as we walked.

Jet Ski Tour with Barefoot Billy’s

This two hour tour takes you around Key West from the choppy waters of the Pacific Ocean into the calm turquoise Gulf of Mexico. The journey was incredibly beautiful and exhilarating as we were flying across the water at 60-70 miles per hour to try and keep up with the guide in front. They did station someone towards the back of the group for those who wanted to take their time and leisurely take in the sights.

Key Lime Pies I Tried and Liked

Before I list them, I need you to know what I feel is important in a key lime pie. This does not reflect the feelings of my fellow travelers, these restaurants, or any actual key lime pie connoisseurs.

• Good key lime pie has to be pale yellow. If you give me a green key lime pie, I will throw it in your face and no one wants that (except me, because I’ve always wanted to throw a pie in someone’s face)
• It must be the right balance of sweet and tart
• The pie has to have a graham cracker crust and that crust must be taste and appear homemade
• Meringue. None of this whipped cream nonsense, don’t be lazy!
• The pie must have the proper texture, which means it cannot be too soupy or too thick. It should fall in that happy medium texture between cheesecake and a thick pudding.

8. Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen (Key Largo)
7. LaTeDa (Key West)
6. Key Lime Shop (Key West)
5. Harpoon Harry’s (Key West)
4. Cheeca Lodge (Islamorada)
3. Bagatelle (Key West)
2. Key Largo Conch House (Key Largo)
1. Blue Heaven (Key West)

Out of all ten key lime pie slices I consumed on this trip, this was my absolute favorite. Look how beautiful these little babies are. They are at least 60% meringue, which apparently is hard to make because most of the key lime pies we tried on the island came with a side of whipped cream, which… what a waste. 11/10 would eat Key Lime pie here every day.

The Travel Issue: Letter From The Editor

This past winter, I flew to Fort Lauderdale to tell a lot of business casual heterosexuals about the LGBTQ women’s travel market, which actually exists, although it’s one of many travel markets that are rarely acknowledged. I made jokes and opened eyeballs but before that — before that and before the man who thought he knew how to take pictures of us at the rooftop pool better than we could take pictures of ourselves and the delicious loud dinners and the gay bar in a strip mall where everything felt red and sticky — I was at home, in Los Angeles (a place I traveled to, often, for nine years before agreeing to just live here), on Surveymonkey. I needed data because I love data but also because none of the data that existed made sense. Something about y’all — this specific community of queer women and non-binary people — wasn’t matching up with a lot of the data about travelers in general. So I wanted to get your numbers. Your stories.

What I learned is that our community values are present in everything we do, and travel is no exception: we are curious about other people and culture, we pursue ethical consumerism, we’re hungry for experience and, as so many tinder profiles suggest, we’re completely bananas about hiking. We travel to learn more about ourselves, and sometimes we travel just to be ourselves. There’s an added risk of traveling while queer, risks that multiply depending on race, gender identity and gender presentation. There are places many folks living at those intersections will not go, and for good reason.

Sometimes, though, as lifelong outsiders, queers can have one thing going for them: they rarely enter a new place with the expectation of feeling immediately understood or accepted. Developing comfort with discomfort is elemental to our survival, and places that can feel like extensions of home for straight cis folks often don’t feel any cozier to us than somewhere we can’t speak the language.

Your open-ended answers about why you like to travel spoke to this: learning new things, exploring new cities, trying local cuisine, wandering. A lot of you really love to wander! And you wander far: 89% of respondents have a valid passport. 94% have traveled internationally and 33.5% have lived in a different country for more than six months. 86% of our U.S. respondents have a valid passport, compared to 42 percent of Americans overall, including 85% of respondents with a household income under $25k. Our group was overwhelmingly less likely than travelers overall to seek out relaxation-focused travel and more likely to aim for “traveling like a local” — and this was true regardless of your employment status or if you have children. I’ll be giving you more results from that survey as the issue continues — because these numbers are complicated and riddled with caveats — but now let’s get into some literary stuff about the stories we’re gonna tell.

The stories in our Travel Issue are about the parts of ourselves we sometimes find easier to see when we’re in a part of the world we’ve never been in before; the complicated internal calculus by which sometimes we can only go home by leaving it. They get at the truth that so many travelers learn: even if we get on the road trying to see something new, the journey often leaves us newly able to understand something closer to home. Our writers for this issue rediscover a moment of teenage authenticity from a drag show in Florence; find reserves of grit and joy they didn’t know they had on a long road trip with a small child; navigate the landscape of all-American racism on a trip inside US borders. The ability to move freely through the world is hard-won for many, and doing so safely is even more of a gamble for queer and trans people. These are stories of risk and growth, building connections and realizing when they’re ending — all the places we think are worth moving toward and the things worth returning to. 🗺

Call For Submissions: The Travel Issue

In conjunction with our upcoming re-launch of the Queer Girl City Guides, this summer’s quarterly issue will be The Travel Issue. Because it’s summer, get it?!

“She’s already got that kind of aggravated look that lesbians get in amusement parks in Ohio,” writes Lisa Kron about her girlfriend in “A Few Notes from the Midwest and Abroad.” It’s just one sentence in this larger piece that’s about but it’s the kind of sentence that says so much to a certain audience.

“So I wound up sitting on the plane on the runway in beautiful San Diego looking like someone who’s just had all the blood removed from her body,” writes Eileen Myles about her pre-flight routine, which included a restless night without sleep. “Plus I’m gay and in my fifties so the combination of whiteness and gayness just turns me into a scary freak. This is travel for me.”

What is travel for you?

We want stories about going weird places or feeling weird in aggressively normal places. We want funny trips and accidental self-discovery, unconventional perspectives on the how and why of it all, intense journeys and new ways of looking at old attractions. Trips you didn’t mean to take, destinations rarely sought out, investigations of the intersection of identity and location. Stories investigating queer migration, or the people making it easier, safer, and more realistic for us to move about the cabin/world.

Here are some inspirational examples of the kinds of things we’re looking for:

• Lost in Canada, by Eileen Myles for The Believer
• Drifters (Interstate 35), by Marya Hornbacher for Nowhere Magazine
• How To Survive a 10-Hour Flight Like a Lady, by Hilary Fischer-Groban for The Hairpin
• Final Destination: On Tinder, Travel and Faking It, by Jennifer Gersten for The Awl
• You Blow My Mind Hey Mickey!, by John Jeremiah Sullivan for The New York Times
• Everything included in The Best Restaurant In The World Is Disney’s Epcot Center, by Caity Weaver and Rich Juzwiak for Gawker
• Dragging My Gay Ass To The Top of Kilimanjaro, by David Duran for Into
• The Problem With Writing About Florida, by Kristen Arnett for lithub
• Journey Into Night, by David Sedaris for The New Yorker
• Notes On Snorkeling, by Rosa Lyster for Popula
• Why the Beach Is a Bummer, by Roxane Gay for The New York Times
• Eating Seafood With Your Hands, by Kayla Kumari for Autostraddle
• Cross Country Crutching, by Eliana Carmona for Argot
• I Break The Loop, by Cory Tamler for The Offing
• 12 Lesbian Resorts You Could Visit This Summer If You Have a Time Machine, by Riese Bernard for Autostraddle
• I Went to a Summer Camp For Adults And It was Weird, by Scaachi Koul
• The Scholar Mapping America’s Forgotten Feminist Restaurants, by Reina Gattuso for Atlas Obscura
• Pawhuska or Bust: A Journey to the Heart of Pioneer Woman Country, by Khushbu Shah
• 60 Days in China: Where Everything Else Seemed Upside-Down, by Emily Choo for Autostraddle
• Is Your Hair Still Political? by Audre Lorde (from “I Am Your Sister”)
• Eight Honest Things About New York City, by Laneia for Autostraddle
• Escape to Alcatraz, by S.J. Culver for Guernica

Payment:

We are an independent publication currently hanging on for dear life! So our rates aren’t the best out there, but relative to our budget they’re quite good. Depending on the piece (length, edits required, reporting involved if relevant), payment is between $50 – $300. Theme issues are also one of our favorite ways to find new regular contributors and staff writers — that’s how writers like Sarah Fonseca, Mey Rude and Reneice Charles first graced these pages.

We are, as always, especially interested in submissions from trans women and people of color.

Submissions are now closed. Thank you!

Queer Girl City Guide: New York City

1. Gay NYC History
2. Neigh/Gayborhoods
3. Restaurants, Cafes & Coffee
4. Bars, Clubs & Lounges
5. Parties
6. Other Nighttime Entertainment
7. Comedy / Performing Arts / Music
8. Shopping
9. Hair / Nails / Tattoos / Piercings
10. Museums
11. Outdoors & Sports
12. Community
13. Annual Queer Events

Gay NYC History

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Neigh/Gayborhoods

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Manhattan

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Brooklyn

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Queens

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Staten Island

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The Bronx

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Restaurants, Cafes & Coffee

Brooklyn

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Manhattan

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Queens

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Nightlife

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

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Parties

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Other Nighttime Entertainment

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Comedy / Performing Arts / Music

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Shopping

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Hair / Nails / Tattoos / Piercings

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Museums

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Outdoors & Sports

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Community

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Annual Queer Events

Queer Girl City Guide: Los Angeles

1. Gay L.A. History
2. Neigh/Gayborhoods
3. Restaurants, Coffee Shops & Cafes
4. Nightlife: Bars, Clubs & Lounges
5. Nightlife: Queer Parties
6. Comedy / Theater / Performing Arts
7. Other Fun Evening Activities
8. Shopping: Books
9. Shopping: Everything Else
10. Hair / Nails / Tattoos / Piercings
11. Community
12. Pride & Other Annual LGBT Events
13. Museums & Historical Attractions
14. Sports
15. The Great Outdoors

Gay L.A. History

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Neigh/Gayborhoods

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Silver Lake, Echo Park, Los Feliz, Eagle Rock & East Hollywood

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West Hollywood

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Downtown L.A.

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North Hollywood & The Valley

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Santa Monica and Venice

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Restaurants, Coffee Shops & Cafes

East Central Los Angeles

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Hollywood Hills

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West Central Los Angeles

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Downtown

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Venice, Santa Monica, Palms & Culver City

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South L.A. & Inglewood

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Multiple Locations

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Nightlife

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

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Parties

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Comedy / Theater / Performing Arts

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Other Fun Things To Do At Night

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Shopping

Books

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Other Shopping

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Hair/Nails/Tattoos/Piercings

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Community

The Los Angeles LGBT Center

The Women’s Center for Creative Work

The ONE Archives at the University of Southern California

June L. Mazer Lesbian Archives

Pot Studio LA

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Pride & Other Annual LGBT Events

Outfest Fusion (March)

One City One Pride WeHo LGBTQ Arts Festival (May – June)

Los Angeles Pride Weekend (June)

Valley Pride (June)

LA Black Pride (July)

Brown and Out Fest (July)

Summer Bash (LA’s Urban Pride) @ BET Weekend(June or July)

Outfest (July)

DTLA Proud Festival (August)

Lezathlon (September)

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Museums & Historical Attractions

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Sports

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The Great Outdoors

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Weekender: Miami and Miami Beach Pride

Welcome to Weekenders, a new travel column where we talk about fun queer-friendly weekend trips for gal pals and girlfriends and everything in between! Weekenders isn’t about visiting big cities, it’s about that small town two hours from a big city or that city you didn’t know was a cool city. (With this exception, which is a big city, because it was a press trip!)

In April I had the delightful opportunity to leave Minneapolis, the charming and also ice-bound city where I live, to visit sunny, gorgeous Miami for the occasion of Miami Beach Pride. Along with a group of other LGBT media professionals — Journalists! Influencers! Editors! Roxy, deputy editor at Diva, which we love! — I got to explore Miami and Miami Beach’s incredible cityscape, culture, food, museums, beaches, and of course Pride.

Hotel Accommodations

EAST

Not to put too fine a point on it, but the EAST Miami might be the fanciest place I’ve ever been inside of. There were macarons waiting for me! The rooftop bar, Sugar, made me feel like a character on the OC, in a good way. The incredible views over Miami were a great way to get acquainted from above with a city I’d never been to before, and also were extremely beautiful!

Surfcomber

After a few days at EAST, we moved to the Surfcomber in Miami Beach, a cute little hotel that boasts Miami Beach as its backyard and also a killer pool to drink a bottle of rosé next to, or inside of if that’s your jam. I cannot believe I am even saying this but they host a free (!!!) happy hour between 4 and 5 in their lobby, in case all that relaxing poolside has worn you out and you need to replenish yourself with other, different wine and adorable tiny snacks. Also notable is that as I was leaving for the airport, I snagged (stole?) a copy of Normal People someone had left on the shelf in the hotel lobby, a book which would later emotionally gut me like a fish. Did the Surfcomber intend this as part of my hotel guest experience? I cannot say, but am very grateful for it.

Museums

Museum of Erotic Art

I cannot report with enough pleasure that the Museum of Erotic Art was one of the first things I saw on my very first day in Miami, and it was a pure joy. Founded by Naomi Wilzig, a Jewish grandmother, the museum was first based on the private collection of erotic art from all over the world she started more than 20 years ago. It houses sculptures and paintings ranging from the conceptual to the very representational, and more kinds of dicks, both artistic and functional, than you can imagine. It also has a very cool and informative exhibit on the Kinsey Institute and foundational research into human sexuality and LGBT sexual identities! Also, again, cannot emphasize enough the volume and diversity of dick-related art.

History Miami Museum

I was so excited that the Queer Miami exhibit coincided with our visit — our group was incredibly lucky to get a tour through it from Steve Rothaus of the Miami Herald, notably the first dedicated LGBT beat reporter in the US. He gave us an incredible perspective and depth of context about the gay history and present of Miami and the surrounding area, including its pivotal role as an early fulcrum of the HIV/AIDS crisis and the seat of Anita Bryant’s cultural war on our community. Selfishly, I was also fascinated to hear Steve talk about his personal history as a reporter, how he had worked with the Miami Herald to ensure that the gay community stories he reported on were treated as urgently and respectfully as any other kind of reporting, and how he worked to win the trust of the gay community during a harrowing and scary time.

Artechouse

Artechouse is a little difficult to explain — is it a museum? Is it more like a theater? Is it an interactive Experience™? They describe themselves as “an innovative art gallery dedicated to showcasing experiential and technology-driven installations and performances.” This April, they were hosting an interactive installation from the French team Adrien M and Claire B, and it was indescribably cool to have the art follow you as you moved through the room, and watch digital representations float and twitch as you blew on them, walked through them, or touched them. Art! It happened to me.

Pérez Museum Miami

I went to the Pérez on my own, on the last day in Miami, and it was the perfect way to close out this trip. It’s beautiful inside and out, an incredibly soothing and uplifting space to be in, with warm wood and glass everywhere and little alcoves with benches and cushions tucked away in corners for when you’re tired from walking. The range of contemporary art in this museum by the water is incredible; I walked through a VR exhibit you interacted with by downloading an app onto your phone to get to this exhibit of Ebony G. Patterson’s …while the dew is still on the roses…

Little Havana

I only got to spend a few hours in Little Havana, which is a pity because the time we did spend there was some of my favorite of the whole trip. We stopped in at Los Pinarenos Fruteria, a landmark institution first opened in 1965 by Guillermina Hernandez and her husband Angel, to enjoy a fresh made watermelon and papaya. We then walked down the street for pastelitos with guava and cream cheese and tiny, super-sweet Cuban coffees before visiting Domino Park and learning more about the history of the neighborhood and its shifting future in a growing city with the ongoing threat of gentrification.

Food and Drag

One thing to know about Miami is that it’s possible to eat virtually any meal of the day with an entertainment backdrop of fully choreographed drag performances, which is something I didn’t even know I might need in my life. We ate dinner at the Palace, where we were serenaded by a parade of drag queens and where one must dance through the crowd indoors to make it to the restroom. I will always hold in my heart the man across the street who came out onto his balcony to twerk to the music, giving us the gift of dance and asking for nothing in return.

Later on, we visited R House , a very cool venue near the Wynwood district that features original art on the walls and truly incredible drag queens who weave between tables doing splits, nbd, for brunch. The entire R House experience is a delirious one, in a great way — bowls of delicious brunch food and pitchers of drinks endlessly reappearing on your table as drag queens twirl and strut around you. Still thinking fondly of the party of maybe 20 people celebrating a birthday next to us; their joy was genuinely infectious and I wish them nothing but happiness in life.

Wynwood

After brunch at R House, still feeling pleasantly mojito-ed, we were lucky enough to take a tour of Wynwood, technically a business district but more well known for the “outdoor museum” that is the Wynwood Walls. On a speedy little golf cart tour with Pedro AMOS, a Miami native and graffiti artist, we got to see the incredible range of styles and approaches to public art in the area — as well as learn about the fascinating details of who gets what space to work on, how territory is negotiated or shared, and the politics of creating public “outsider” art.

Pride!

Of course, the reason we were in Miami Beach: Miami Beach Pride! This was the first time in my life I had seen Pride on a literal, actual beach, and it was a beautiful and surreal experience. We ate arepas underneath the ferris wheel installed on the beach for the occasion and waited for the parade, marshaled this year by Dennis and Judy Shepard, the parents of Matthew Shepard. Also casually participating in this year’s parade was Gloria Estefan’s daughter Emily Estefan with her girlfriend Gemeny Hernández!

That evening, we headed back to the beach for a party and concert lineup featuring Icona Pop and also a space theme, which I do not understand the reasoning behind but obviously loved! I have never had a frozen mojito before, but I cannot recommend the milieu of Miami Beach Pride at midnight surrounded by some charming young men in chest harnesses enough as the place to try your first one.

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I spent five days in Miami and Miami Beach, and it was not nearly enough! Please tell me about everything I missed so I can make sure to see it when I go back!

Queer Girl City Guide: Glasgow

This guide is written by an Autostraddle community member! The Queer Girl City Guides are compiled and written by volunteer community members who are excited to share their favorite places and experiences with you. They cannot be independently verified by Autostraddle. We also recognize that cities change and venues close. Due to team restrictions, these guides may not always be up-to-date as time goes on. Feel free to share your own info about these locations (or others!) in the comments!

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Welcome to Glasgow! Yes those are traffic cones on that statues head. No it’s not technically part of the statue, but in all honestly it’s genuinely disorienting to see it without. Glasgow is Scotland’s biggest city, and boy are we thrilled to finally have a Queer Girl City Guide here. Four out of our five main political parties here in Scotland have been led by LGB people and it totally isn’t even a big deal. It’s also the home of the since-deceased BBC lesbian drama Lip Service (RIP). “People Make Glasgow” is our city slogan and we really live by that motto. We’re known for our friendliness, and you only need to look at campaigns like Refuweegee to see why. And for the record, yes, Glasgow is better than Edinburgh.

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Get Into The Groove

Glasgow has a great nightlife that spans across the city. There’s even an entire street that is solely made up of bars, restaurants, casinos and nightclubs that was once lovingly nicknamed Glasvegas, and may have inspired a certain band’s name.

Outside this main strip there’s plenty of LGBTQIA+ specific and friendly places to have a drink, a dance and the chance to chat up a cutie.

Katie’s Bar
7 John Street, G1 1HP

Do you like cocktails? Do you like karaoke? Do you like bars for queer women? Congratulations, you’ve now found yourself at Katie’s Bar. Nestled in The Italian Centre in Merchant City, this place hosts plenty of Drag Queen’s, tribute acts to pop artists such as Little Mix and Pink, and regular DJ’s. Up for a little more conversation than music? Why not impress a cute gal with your knowledge during the regular quiz nights? Plus the bar staff know how to shake up a cocktail or two, with the Jessica Rabbit being a particular favourite.

The Polo Lounge
84 Wilson Street, G1 1UZ

Polo is probably the most well-known gay nightclub in Glasgow. A staple of the city, it’s housed in a beautiful building in the Merchant City area of Glasgow – a place filled with high-end designer clothing, lots of culture, and great places to wine and dine. You can chill out (or make out) upstairs in the glamourous interior, with its baroque mirrors, chaise lounges and couches, or head down into the nightclub for neon lights, secluded booths and more pop music that you can shake a stick at. Wednesday is the main student night with cheap drinks for all you skint folk, and Saturday is your best bet for a cracking night out.

Push it @ Stereo
22-28 Renfield Lane, G2 6PH

Stereo overall is a cool vegan bar and basement gig space but Push It by far is their best and queerest night. Happening on the second weekend of each month, it’s a night of exclusively female artist tunes that’s super fun and full of cute people. They have an excellent safer space policy that doesn’t tolerate bullshit of any shade. If you’re looking for a good time and some serious 90s nostalgia then this is your night!

Cathouse
15 Union Street, G1 3RB

The Cathouse Rock Club is kind of a mythical place. A part of the city’s club scene for 27 years, it’s cemented as the place to go if you’re into metal, emo, rock, pop punk or the occasional screamo cover of Taylor Swift. Whilst not LGBTQIA+ specific, it is a welcoming place, and you’ll always see a wide mix of people there. Plus, they usually do discounts if you’ve been at a gig that night, and loads of bands and artists come to the Catty to play DJ sets (or just hang out for a drink) post-concert. Oh, and their Halloween parties are pretty legendary too.

Queer Theory @ Nice n’ Sleazy
421 Sauchiehall Street, G2 3LG

Easily Glasgow’s most bizarre evening, you never know what’s going to happen at this cabaret night. Hosted by local queer band Black Doves, the only certainty is that their performance will round off the night. Previous personal highlights have included being taken onto the stage to find an egg on a local drag king, a Kim Jong Un themed reinterpretation of Boom Boom Boom Boom by the Vengaboys and a pal getting chained to a pillar and receiving a lapdance. Leave your expectations at the door upstairs and enjoy the surreal queer universe of the basement.

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Sport Scene

Glasgow hosted the Commonwealth Games back in 2014 with a commitment to getting more people involved in sport. If you’re visiting and fancy getting active there’s a bunch of groups you can get involved in. Plus you can hire the lovely pink People Make Glasgow bikes to go explore the city!

Glasgow Roller Derby
Whether you’re Bambi on ice or whipping it like a pro, you’ll find your place at GRD. Fresh meat training is twice a week, from 7-10pm on Tuesdays at The Firhill Complex, Maryhill and from 1-3pm on Sundays at the ARC Sports Centre (part of Glasgow Caledonian University in the centre of town). Keep an eye on the Glasgow Roller Recruits (GRR) Facebook page for the next skater intake if you want to get involved! If you don’t fancy skating yourself but fancy checking out the action, then come along and cheer your favourites on at the regular matches!

Women’s Only Swimming at Glasgow Club North Woodside
10 Braid Square, G4 9YQ

This Glasgow Life club hosts women-only swimming twice a week, for women and girls aged 14 and above in their beautifully restored Victorian-era bathhouse. You’ve also got the use of the health suite, sauna and steam room during these dedicated times. Unfortunately, it’s not quite fully trans inclusive.

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Eating Out

Fun fact: Glasgow has been voted the most Vegan-friendly city by PETA for at least four years now, so if you’re looking for food with no animals involved it’s definitely a great place to eat. Glasgow is probably the best place to eat in the UK outside of London – so no matter what makes your mouth water, you’ll have bundles of choice!

Steak, Cattle and Roll
321 Sauchiehall Street, G2 3HW

Dilemma: you have a bunch of friends both vegan and non-vegan and you need to find somewhere to eat. Solution: Steak Cattle and Roll. They serve up huge portions of vegan and non-vegan burgers, hotdogs, fries and more.(Seriously, the portion of chips they dish up has to be shared by two, don’t be a hero and try to finish one on your own).  There’s a variety of vegan dessert options to choose from here, most of which include chocolate and ice cream!

The Flying Duck
142 Renfield Street, G2 3AU

The Flying Duck is legen(dairy-free) for its vegan food and drinks. Tucked away in a side street and down some stairs, this definitely a hidden gem you want to explore. The graffiti-art and string lights welcome you along a dark corridor before you eventually find yourself in the main venue, tables spread out everywhere and with a well-stocked bar. The Flying Duck also hosts a bunch of gigs, screenings, and events, but you know in your heart that the food will always be the main attraction – be sure to get the vegan mac n cheese and you will not be disappointed.

Ichiban
52 Queen Street, G1 3DS

The best Japanese restaurant in Glasgow, hands down. Hidden along Queen Street, it’s one of the best discoveries in the city. We could gorge on their avocado maki for three days straight and still want to eat more. The quality of the food here is excellent, everything is freshly made, and I’ll be honest, it’s going to ruin any other Japanese restaurant for you because you’ll just be thinking “It’s good, but it’s not Ichiban…”

Topolabama
89 St Vincent Street, G2 5TF

Looking for good Mexican food at a decent price? And somewhere that also has a really fun name to say? Topolabama is the place for you. They have an express lunch menu which is an absolute bargain (£9.95 per person for a whole bunch of food) and a pretty extensive selection of imported alcohol. Try the salt and chilli fries, and any of the quesadillas on offer, for a fully satisfactory lunch. Plus if you’re in the day drinking mood, the multi-flavoured margaritas are excellent.

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Feelin’ Yourself!

We all fancy a new hair colour or crave some new ink every once in awhile, and although there is an abundance of places you can go to get yourself looking fierce, the recommendations below are the places that really are at the top of their game. So if it’s something special you want, head here.

#BLOW
243 Kilmarnock Road, G41 3JF // 1060 Argyle St, G3 8LY

We’ll put my hands up right now and say that we’re obsessed with #BLOW. They’ve made a big name for themselves in the city as being the experts in bright custom colours, and have provided many a festival go-er with the perfect braids and glittered partings for a weekend of partying. They serve cocktails and popcorn for their clients and do lots of workshops teaching other hairdressers their crazy hair skills. If you’re looking for a brand new ‘do, head to one of #BLOW’s salons. You won’t regret it.

Nirvana
9 Chisholm Street, G1 5HA

Nirvana is your one stop shop for body mods. They’ve built their business on being the experts in piercings in the city for 27 years, and though the tattoo branch of the shop is relatively new compared to the rest of the store, by god have they got some of the best in the business working there. If you’re looking for a beautiful piece of art to stay on your skin or fancy a cute piercing somewhere new, there’s nowhere else that compares. But if you’re planning on getting some ink on your next visit to Glasgow, book your tattoo first before you even think about flights, accommodation, etc – the artists are high in demand.

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Books! Books! Books!

Glasgow is a delight if you’re a bookworm like me. We’ve got loads of Waterstones stores across the city, who usually have a bunch of LGBTQIA books in store (or they’ll order them in for you). There’s also loads of excellent independent comics shops who prefer their stories a little more visual. A1 Toys and City Centre Comics are great places to look if you’re looking for particular back issues and some hidden gems. Plus, we have lots of local libraries dotted about the place, as well as bigger libraries such as the stunning Mitchell Library. And if you want to buy some books whilst feeling good, Oxfam also have a couple of shops where you can donate or purchase books that will help the charity do it’s awesome work.

Glasgow Women’s Library
23 Landressy Street, G40 1BP

This library started after Glasgow’s stint at the European City of Culture in 1990 by people who wanted to highlight women’s contribution to culture. Today it is a hub of knowledge on the mark women have made on history, and has an extensive collection of documents on LGBTQIA+ history in the UK stored in the Lesbian Archive and Information Collection Centre. But what’s really remarkable about the library is the dedication of the volunteers who’ve worked throughout the years to make this the national treasure it is today, and the kindness of those who’ve added to the collection available at GWL – the vast majority of items are donated, and more keep pouring in. They host many events throughout the year, from writing workshops, heritage walks, dance and crafting classes, talks from writers, and much, much more. Glasgow Women’s Library is dedicated to telling and listening to the stories of women, and you’re always guaranteed a warm welcome here.

Forbidden Planet
168 Buchanan Street, G1 2LW

Forbidden Planet Glasgow is the place to go if you want to pick up the latest edition of Lumberjanes, Gotham Academy and  The Wicked +The Divine as well as any older comics you might have missed out on first time round. The staff are always happy to help out with a request for a particular comic, so don’t be afraid to ask! The store also hosts She Reads Comics, a monthly meetup for women who like, well, comics.

Geek-aboo
74 Queen Street, G1 3DS

If you’re looking for the latest edition of Zodiac Star Force or Wynnona Earp, or fancy a bunch of cool comics/animation/movie related clothing then head to Geek-aboo. Or if you want to support local comic creators, they have a section dedication to those awesome artists printing stuff themselves. What’s even cooler is that they have silent shopping hours for autistic customers on a Sunday from opening until 12 noon – really useful if the usual bustle of city centre shops is a little overwhelming.

Category Is
34 Allison Street, G42 8NN

Category Is might just be one of the most important places for LGBTQIA+ people in Glasgow. An independent queer bookshop on the southside run by the lovely wives Charlotte and Fi Duffy-Scott, it serves as a place where all members of the community can meet – there’s colourful Personals posted all over the shop – read books, and pet a very cute dog. Open Wednesday through Sunday, there’s regular events that take place every month, including yoga, dungeons and dragons, and poetry workshops. You can also have your tarot read, get a sharp haircut, or catch up with the best feminist sci-fi. There’s also an incredible range of pin badges (our personal favourite being one with an image of Kristen Stewart on SNL with the text “I’m so gay, dude”) as well as handmade zines, graphic novels and the latest issue of DIVA mag.

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Culture Club: Music and Film in Glasgow

Music is pretty big in Glasgow. We love our gigs and we have a flourishing live music scene – about 99% of the bars in the city host regular open mic nights. We’ve also got some of the most legendary venues, and because of our reputation as being a pretty wild crowd to play for, we’re lucky enough to regularly host lots of big acts who come along just to see what the fuss is all about.

King Tuts Wah Wah Hut
272A St Vincent Street, G2 5RL

“Quite possibly the finest small venue in the World” exclaimed NME magazine. Ever since opening its doors in 1990, King Tut’s has been the place to launch many an artists career. Oasis were famously signed here back in 1993, and it’s been a ‘bucket list’ venue ever since. The stairs leading up to the stage tell a 27 year long story of all the amazing musicians that have  performed here, including the likes of AW, Jenny Owen Youngs and Ladyhawke. If you want to have bragging rights that you saw so-and-so in an intimate venue “before they got big”, this will be the place where it happens.

Barrowland Ballroom
244 Gallowgate, 0TT

Another mythical place in Glasgow’s music scene, the Barrowland Ballroom is often noted by many musicians to be their favourite place to play. It’s a little run down, yes, but that just adds to its character and charm. Part of what makes this place magical is the sprung dance floor, a hark back to it’s original Ballroom use, which makes for excellent moments where you feel like you spend most of the gig levitating as the crowd dances, sings and jumps around. Be sure to visit the Barrowland Park, which highlights some of the amazing concerts that have happened in the venue.

Scottish Queer International Film Festival

The delightfully named SQIFF pulls together some of the best less known queer films from across Scotland and around the world. Featuring some of best filmmaking from this generation and those who have gone before us, they screen less heard stories as well as helping local filmmakers hone their craft through a range of workshops and talks. Most of the events are free or ticketed on a sliding scale according to how much you can afford. It takes place in October and you can check out the full lineup on their website.

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Pride

has not just one, but two prides! There is the main Glasgow Pride parade and the alternative, Free Pride. Main Pride is hosted in Glasgow Green, it’s been running annually since 2012, usually around the 20th August, and lasts over the Saturday and Sunday. Saturday is the main day, with the parade that travels through the City Centre. LGBT Health and Wellbeing are now in their fourth year hosting a Pride breakfast so you can fill up before marching. The Saturday also hosts the Youth Zone, so if you’re a younger member of the LGBTQIA+ community or have children, you can head down there and chat to the organisations across Scotland that welcome LGBTQIA young people. Over the weekend Glasgow Green is filled with stalls from charities and businesses all supporting Pride, as well as performances from pop artists. And if you’re looking to head out after, the afterparty on both nights is hosted by The Polo Lounge, who are usually the main sponsors of the event.

Weekend tickets cost £12, and day tickets are £8 each. For those aged 13-17, they can get a Youth weekend ticket for £5.

Free Pride was set up as a response to the commercialisation and de-radicalisation of Pride and focuses on being an accessible and free for everyone. There is a Free Pride bloc in the main parade which anyone is welcome to join, and afterwards a family friendly daytime event with stalls and workshops discussing issues facing the LGBTQIA+ community, a quiet space and lots of arts & crafts, before a banging clubnight at the Art School.

If you’re looking for a way to meet new folk in the city throughout the year there’s always workshops, self care events and clubnights happening plus planning meetings are fully open and welcoming of new people!

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Other Things to Know When Visiting

We kind of loathe having to write this, but if you’re coming to this city to live or to visit, it’s something that can’t be avoided. Football is something Glasgow has had an issue with for years. There are two main teams who play in Glasgow, Rangers and Celtic, and the rivalry between these two is not pretty. It’s something that has caused the city a lot of issues in terms of violence. Our advice would be that unless you are going to a match as a fan, avoid the city centre or any of the train stations/pubs near the main stadiums (Ibrox and Celtic Park). Match days are usually an excuse to consume a lot of alcohol, and if you’re like me and get uncomfortable around loud, shouty, intoxicated men, I’d chill out and stay home or the hotel.

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Let’s Talk About Sex(ual Health), Baby

General life advice: remember to get tested! The most common STI symptom is no symptons, regular sexual health screenings keep you and your partner(s) healthy.

Sandyford Centre
2-6 Sandyford Place, G3 7NB

The Sandyford is Glasgow’s main testing clinic and there’s a couple of different clinics across the city. They offer full sexual health screenings and you can book an appointment on the phone. There is normally a few weeks wait to be seen but if it’s urgent then they’ll fit you in.

Terrence Higgins Trust
Breckenridge House // 274 Sauchiehall Street, G2 3EH

Terrence Higgins is a wonderful charity that principally focus on supporting those with HIV through practical work and advocacy. However they also offer HIV tests (results within 20 minutes) as well as screenings for STIs. They’re a lovely bunch and if you’re feeling a lil bit nervous about getting testing then they’ll completely put you at your ease. You can drop in on a Tuesday night 5-8pm or make an appointment by phone.

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University Life

Glasgow is an education hub, with lots of colleges and universities across the city. There’s the University of Glasgow, University of Strathclyde, Glasgow Caledonian University, Glasgow School of Art, University of the West of Scotland and the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland all of which have active LGBTQIA+ societies.

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Faith Groups

Metropolitan Community Church
Ibrox Parish Church Hall // Clifford Street, G51 1QL

The MCC is a small church run by the LGBTQIA+ community, for the community. Sunday service is at 3pm in Ibrox Parish church and on the first Sunday of each month there’s the Big Squeeze, a social where you can get to know everyone and share a meal.

Langside Parish Church
167 Ledard Road, G42 9QU

Langside is explicitly welcoming of everyone no matter how long it’s been since your last church visit or your sexual orientation. Sunday service is at 10.30 am and there’s a creche for kids. When the church is open you’re free to use it as a reflective space.

Glasgow Buddhist Centre
329 Sauchiehall Street, G2 3HW

In the centre of the city’s busiest street, you can find this wonderful oasis of calm. The centre is fully queer friendly and offers free meditation and buddhism classes, as well as Tai Chi and yoga. Their website has the full list of classes.

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Wellbeing and Community Resources

LGBT Health and Wellbeing Scotland
12 Queen’s Crescent, G4 9AS

If there’s an LGBTQIA+ group taking place, it’s probably associated in some way with LGBT Health and Wellbeing. As well as providing information and support across Scotland, they help facilitate many different groups across Glasgow from those whose first language isn’t English to 50 year old plus folks looking to make some friends. They host events at loads of lovely venues including The Project Cafe and Woodlands Community Garden. If you’re looking for help, support, or just want to meet some other LGBTQIA+ people in the area, then LGBT Health and Wellbeing should be your first point of contact. They also have a helpline (0300 123 2523) that runs Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 12.00-21.00.

LGBT Youth Scotland
30 Bell Street, G1 1LG

This non-profit organisation focuses on young LGBT people in Scotland and they use their skills and knowledge to  provide training for businesses too. They run a number of meetups in their Bell Street office for those under 25, as well as a counselling service that you can self refer to. They’ve also got a mental health drop in service on Thursday nights (19.00-21.00) where you can chat to someone or get involved in workshops appointment free

TYG: Trans* Youth Glasgow  takes place every Monday night from 19.00-21.00. THis group is for people aged between 13-25 who identify as transgender and provides support as well as allowing those in the group to share their own knowledge and experience on things like coming out, health and legal issues.

StandOUT takes place every Wednesday night from 19.00-21.00. This group is for people aged between 18-25 who identify as lesbian, gay, bisexual or transgender, and gives those who attend the opportunity to make new friends and learn new skills.

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Come visit Glasgow! We’d be glad to have you!

Queer Girl City Guide: Washington DC

This guide is written by Molly Stratton, an Autostraddle community member! The Queer Girl City Guides are compiled and written by volunteer community members who are excited to share their favorite places and experiences with you. They cannot be independently verified by Autostraddle. We also recognize that cities change and venues close. Due to team restrictions, these guides may not always be up-to-date as time goes on. Feel free to share your own info about these locations (or others!) in the comments!

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Hey there! Welcome to our nation’s capital the the next stop on your queer destination train! DC is big with the gays. It’s so popular in fact, that it was covered in one of our very first queer girl city guides, over seven years ago! But time has changed a bit, so we figured let’s stop in again and give this city a quick update!

Who wrote this guide? As is “Queer Girl City Guide” tradition, this guide was initially compiled by Molly Stratton, an Autostraddle community member. This is what she had to say about her home: The DC queer scene can be very cool, but sometimes it’s hard to tap into.  We’re swarming with queer collectives that take over a local venue for a night of dancing or fundraising. We also have an awesome queer women’s bar with the best name ever – A League Of Her Own. We have enough lots of DJs throwing their own events, but the parties are rarely advertised as queer or lesbian. It can take some digging, but there’s a lot of life in DC. Even if you can’t see us, we’ve always been here.

Also Autostraddle has a few writers from the DMV area, so we asked Carrie Wade to volunteer some of her services as well. Let’s go!

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Join a Collective, Get a Free Toaster!

The DC dance and dating scene is mostly ruled by collectives: groups that meet once a month, or sometimes only seasonally, at different bars and locations throughout DC. But don’t mistake their roving for lack of staying power – all of these groups have been staples of the DC scene for years.

QREW 

QREW hosts monthly dance parties and  fundraisers for the early 20s set. They tend to stick to crowd favorites like Beyonce and Tina Turner. Don’t worry if baby gay tries to hit on you by offering you a PBR! If you’re new to the DC scene and anxious about it, you’ll find friends here. You can also follow them on instagram.

The Coven DC 

In DC’s popup queer party scene, The Coven DC has stood out for years. Ambiance is super crowded and sometimes a bit cliquey – their parties tend to be the kind of place where you’d desperately go to meet someone new and then run into your ex. That said, the Coven also has a good track record of fundraising for organizations like the Orlando Pulse Victims Fund, HIPS, and Planned Parenthood.

TASTE

TASTE was created specifically to bring queer women’s events to DC’s H Street Corridor, a bar and dance-venue heavy stretch of road that’s popular with tourists and mainstream partiers, but hasn’t always been as welcoming to queer women’s events ( Ever heard of the world famous Ben’s Chili Bowl? They’re also here.) They’re “inclusive to all genders, orientations, races, ethnicities, religions and levels of sass.”

Lure DC

Lure DC plans women-centric parties throughout the DMV, including BARE, a ladies’ night at Dupont gay bar Cobalt, and their yearly White Party. They also host an “infamous” wet t-shirt contest.

The Ivy Project

Founded in 2016, this collective has an impressive list of monthly themed queer parties. Queers can let out their inner need to dress up and grind to thumping beats with themes like “MasQUEERade” and “Spring Break”.

Where the Girls Go at Dodge City DC
917 U St NW

This dance party is held monthly through spring and summer at Dodge City, which has both enough room for flirting and people-watching on the outdoor patio and a banging dance party on the second floor. Five rotating ceiling fans do nothing to cool the sweaty dancers, but the bar offers so many delicious queer-themed cocktails that it’s hard to mind. The Tea Dances are a destination event for some of the most fashionable queers in DC, so bring your edgiest haircut and most sickening outfit if you want to stand out.

Bodywork DC

Starting in October 2017, Bodywork DC is the brainchild of DJ Alex DB and DJ Abby. Billing itself as “your favorite queer dance party’s favorite queer dance party”, they feature local DJs of all genders and lack thereof and are explicitly anti-racist.

Pretty Boi Drag

Honestly? All the drag queens in DC ain’t shit compared to these kings. Run entirely by queer black women and with a majority black cast, these pretty bois can command a room full of drunk brunch-goers with the quirk of an eyebrow – and that’s before they take off their shirts. Come to feel flustered while also marveling that you still know all the words to that one Backstreet Boys song.

Q Street

Q Street hosts monthly LGBT events and quarterly women’s events for networking for “public policy/lobbyist types.”

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Bars & Lounges

A League of Her Own // 2319 18th Street NW
A League of Her Own (It also goes by ALOHO, which is adorable) opened in August 2018 and DC’s nightlife scene was forever changed! I wish I could describe to you how amazing this bar and nightclub is, just to be able to be surrounded by your own community at a time when so many other lesbian bars nationwide are sadly dying. A League Her Own is fun and feels like an extension of your living room – if your living room was a party with walls covered in queer women’s paraphernalia! PLEASE COME! You will not regret it!! Not one bit!

Republic Restoratives // 1369 New York Ave NE
A small-batch queer-women-owned distillery in Washington DC that is deeply embedded in its community, offering events (like Queer Girl Movie Night) and Distillery Tour & Tastings on Sundays. Proud to be the largest crowd-funded distillery in the world. Known for great craft cocktails.

XX+ Crostino // 1926 9th Street NW
A new queer women’s lounge in D.C. “advocating diversity, inclusivity and fostering a united community on all fronts.” This classy, upscale lounge is passionate about community artists, with a monthly rotating gallery, and has a late-night menu of playful bar bites by their in-house chef. It has a small dance floor and a free-to-play pool table and is run by queer women.

Nellie’s Sports Bar // 900 U St NW
Though arguably a nightlife staple, DC’s queer scene seems to be getting a bit tired of Nellie’s, complaining that it is overrun with bachelorette parties and the clientele tends more towards cis gay and straight men than anything else. (As of this writing, their roster of weekly events doesn’t include a single explicitly queer or lesbian-friendly night.) But the Transmasculine Happy Hour still meets here monthly, and the Drag Brunch is still one of the quintessential queer DC experiences. Nellie’s other major issue is accessibility, with tables too close together for a wheelchair and a steep flight of stairs being the only option to reach the second floor bar.

Freddies // 555 23rd St. S, Arlington, Virginia
A “beach bar” in Arlington, Virginia popular amongst queer women. Features include a popular brunch buffer, karaoke, drag and a lot of gay men. “It’s been open nearly 20 years and is something of an area institution,” writes commenter cb. “It’s also the only LGBTQ bar option if you live in the suburbs and aren’t feeling a night in DC.”

Port City Brewing Company // 3950 Wheeler Avenue // Alexandria, VA

While not specifically a queer venue, Port City is quite queer friendly, and the beers are quite delicious. Optimal Wit is the most famous, but I’m also partial to the the Long Black Veil IPA, a tribute to the local legend of the Female Stranger (Alexandria loves its ghosts). The space itself is also a ton of fun; there’s always somewhere to sit, including a comfy couch under the spiral staircase, and the back room features a canoe suspended from the ceiling. Food trucks on weekends make Port City a strong choice for your next day-long hang.

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Be Your Own Sports Hero

DC Rollergirls

Roller derby is arguably the most lesbian sport in the world, so no DC guide should be complete without our home team, the DC Rollergirls. Any beginner with a mouthguard, an ID, and health insurance can join their Sunday practice sessions at their Warehouse in Edmonton, MD.

DC Furies
Rugby is the other most lesbian sport in the world, so it’s only fitting that DC is home to one of the oldest women’s rugby leagues. The DC Furies are iconic and known throughout the country.

Team DC
Team DC is a non-profit “established to educate the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender (LGBT) community on the benefits of individual and team sports participation.” They work to encourage queer participation in all different kinds of sports across the DMV, provide scholarships for queer athletes, and help fight discrimination. Their newsletter, the Sportsgram, also serves as a one-stop shop for all queer-related sporting events in DC.

Stonewall Sports
A nonprofit with chapters in several major cities, Stonewall Sports has the dual goals of maintaining LGBT-friendly sports leagues and raising money for various community charities. Their leagues are eclectic and feature everything from billiards to bowling, but the one that’s arguably truest to DC’s health-obsessed spirit is Stonewall Yoga (“The gayest yoga class you’ll ever take”).

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Restaurants: Because Sometimes a Girl’s Gotta Eat

Timber Pizza Company
809 Upshur St NW

Neapolitan style pizza with seriously creative toppings. I remember when Timber was just a food truck! Now, here we are! It’s got a wood-burning oven and it puts it to work overtime to create beautiful pies like the Green Monster (pesto, feta, and kale) or the Bentley (honey, chorizo, and peppers). DELISH.

Ben’s Chili Bowl
1213 U Street

I don’t think any guide to DC is complete without Ben’s Chili Bowl, a truly iconic and landmark institution. It’s a bit of a greasy spoon, with old photos of celebrities lining the walls. It’s best known for their chili dogs, half-smokes (spicy sausage made up of beef and pork, served on a hot dog bun), and milkshakes. Open late nights, which makes it perfect for sopping up alcohol before bed and having solid laughs with friends.

Zenebech
2420 18th St NW

Washington has an important and large Ethiopian immigrant community, which means we have a lot of choices when it comes to delicious cuisine. Zenebech stands out as a go-to because of its consistency over the years and all the love that goes into their food. You’ll find injera platters (traditional Ethiopian sourdough flatbread, served with toppings) that will make your mouth water. The family reopened the restaurant after a devastating recent fire. It’s perfect to take your vegetarian and vegan friends.

Stomping Ground
2309 Mt. Vernon Avenue // Alexandria, VA

Come for the rainbow flag in the window, stay for the biscuits and gravy. This brunch standout in the Del Ray neighborhood of Alexandria just wants to make you feel at home. There’s almost always a (well-deserved) line, but don’t be intimidated — the staff are friendly and efficient, and they’ve got it all worked out. Can confirm that both savory and sweet offerings are stellar here.

Dacha Beer Garden
1600 7th St. NW

Full disclosure that I’ve only ever been here for a Pride brunch — but I normally hate those kinds of things and actually enjoyed it! That’s a glowing endorsement from someone who strongly prefers staying home.

Thomas Sweet Ice Cream Company
3214 P St NW

On one hand Thomas Sweet is a bit of a tourist trap and has a lot of straight preteens on first dates mulling about, which can be a lot to deal with. On the other, it’s hands down some of the best ice cream in DC with chocolate dipped cones, ice cream sandwiches, and — get this! — AN ENTIRE COUNTER DEDICATED TO FUDGE!

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Shopping and Other DC Businesses That Cater to Our Community

Fantom Comics
2010 P St NW, 2nd Floor

Fantom doesn’t bill itself as an LGBT bookstore, but between their ongoing displays of graphic novels and comics featuring queer characters, authors, and their full roster of queer-friendly events and book clubs – it’s sometimes hard not to mistake them for one. The store has a sweet mural of a rainbow-winged pegasus, comic art covering every inch of their walls, and a dedicated staff that can help you figure out where to start reading if you’re a bit intimidated. They also host a yearly Pride-viewing party. Unfortunately, they’re also on the second floor of a building with a steep and narrow staircase, making them inaccessible to those with mobility needs.

Embassy Row Hotel
2015 Massachusetts Ave NW

Embassy Row is a pricey hotel with funky hipster furniture that is located in the heart of Dupont Circle. They advertise themselves as a premier destination for LGBT weddings, but for DC’s pop-up party scene, the real attraction is the rooftop pool. Queer local DJs like Jaq Jill hold trap and EDM events by the pool regularly in the summer months, though if it’s a daytime party you may find yourself sharing the postage-stamp-sized pool with confused straight hotel guests.

The Lady Clipper Barber Shop
1514 U Street NW

If the name alone doesn’t convince you, the results will. Resident barbers Lesley and Jo are both friendly, professional, and efficient; I routinely walk out with a killer cut in less than half an hour. A trusted queer acquaintance recommended Lesley when I moved to the area and I’ve never even thought about looking elsewhere. Be sure to book in advance, because appointments fill up fast. (Bonus: You can go to the 14^th Street outpost of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream after you’re done.)

Penny Post
1201 King Street // Alexandria, VA

It is a truth universally acknowledged that queer women love to journal, and Penny Post will happily fuel that habit. They’ve got every kind of notebook, fancy pen, and decorative stamp under the sun here. There’s also a broad selection of greeting cards, including an impressive number devoted to gay wedding/gay-by congrats. Fair warning that the entire place is painfully cute and may distract you for far longer than intended.

Busboys and Poets
2021 14^th St NW

How do you even describe this space? Busboys and Poets is part-bookstore, part-restaurant, part-bar, part-coffee shop. It’s named after the poet Langston Hughes and is a haven for writers and thinkers and performers, with a reputation for having progressive politics and an investment in social and political movements. They also believe in lifting up DC’s historic Black community, which is vitally important.

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Events

Black Femme Brunch

BFB describes itself as a “radical, irreverent, and unapologetic celebration of queer and trans black femmes of all genders.” Each meetup has a theme (such as “UNhumble”, “New Year, Fuck This”, or “Apesh*t”) and features booze along with delectable food. Always remember: “The three commandments of every Black Femme Brunch event are: BE BLACK, BE FEMME, BE FRIENDLY.”

LezLink

Lez Link holds a monthly happy hour as well as outings to amusement parks, garden parties, and craft nights (one event involves creating a relationship vision board, which is the gayest thing I’ve written today.)

WiTT

Originally called Women in Their Twenties and now Women in Their Twenties (and Thirties), WiTT is a dinner-and-discussion group for lesbian and bi women that meets monthly at the DC Center. The group also organizes outings to places where they can meet other women, such as picnics and queer dance parties.

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Miscellaneous Fun

Potomac Riverboat Company
Various Routes

I assume the sightseeing tours are nightmarish tourist traps, but recommend the Water Taxi as a charmingly over-the-top way to get somewhere.

Alexandria’s Original Ghost and Graveyard Tour
Alexandria, VA

Look, I can’t help it: I love kitschy things, and this is some grade A kitsch. I’ve never seen a city take such pride in its hauntings.

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Health Services and Other Resources

FemX

FemX is a 15-16 week course on feminism and women’s health that happens twice a year and is driven by donations. If you’re an academically-minded person who wishes they could major in WGS or LGBTQ+ studies or just want to take a deep dive into topics like menstruation and relationship health, FemX is for you.

HIPS
906 H St NE

HIPS works to provide harm reductive and non-judgemental services for those involved in the DC sex trade, sex work, or drug use.

Whitman-Walker
Locations across the city

Whitman-Walker is DC’s only trans-friendly health clinic and hospital.

Casa Ruby 

DC’s only homeless shelter for trans and non-binary people, Casa Ruby was started by local trans woman Ruby Jade Corado. Casa Ruby provides clothing, internet access, support groups, counseling, legal aid and housing referrals to their clients.

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Activism

WERK for Peace
Remember that dance party protest at Mike Pence’s house? That was these guys. WERK for Peace doesn’t have a set event schedule, so look for Facebook announcements within hours of the next top news story about whatever the GOP wants to take from us next. Those wanting to join in are typically asked to meetup at a metro stop before going to a secret location (i.e. the target’s house) so don’t be late.

No Justice No Pride

“No pride for some of us without justice for all of us!” is the rallying cry of this DC-based collective working to bring better trans and POC representation to the queer scene.

Black Lives Matter DC

BLM has a strong presence in the DC area. Organized as “a collective of organizers, activists, and artists in DC who work to combat anti-blackness and racialized oppression in all of its manifestations as experienced by Black and African diasporic people,” BLM hosts weekly and monthly events, along with opportunities to network and movement build for future actions.

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Queer Publishing

Tagg Magazine

Founded in 2012, Tagg Magazine has its offices in DC, but covers “everything queer, lesbian, and under the rainbow”, both locally and internationally. Their website is thorough, having a little bit of everything from celebrity to political news. They also have a podcast called Tagg Nation. You can subscribe and have a paper copy of the magazine mailed to you, or pick one up at a few businesses throughout DC and VA.

DC Zinefest

Queer culture has a long history of making its own media, so it’s no surprise that DC’s DIY/punk/activist/queer undergrounds are keeping zines alive. DC’s Zinefest brings together 60+ self-published artists and writers together in the (unfortunately un-air conditioned) basement of St. Stephen and the Incarnation Church. Zines are available on almost every topic, from queer sex to funny comics to DC’s homegrown food zine, The Runcible Spoon. Be sure to bring cash (most zines are around $3.) DC Zinefest is also wheelchair accessible.

OUTWrite

The DC Center hosts the main OUTWrite festival yearly, a two-day celebration of LGBT literature, authors, writers, and poets. Highlights include live readings, panels, writer’s workshops, and book sales. OUTWrite also sponsors related programs throughout the year to support DC queer writers.

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More of What You Need to Know to Live Here

The DC Center

The DC Center for the LGBT community hosts everything from queer-friendly ASL events to a coffee drop-in for LGBT seniors. They have extensive healthcare outreach that touches on anything from HIV support to helping people quit smoking. They also host a number of peer support groups, including The Center Black LGBT – which supports black queer and trans DC residents. Finally, this powerhouse of a LGBT center has no less than five events focused on queer film, queer books, and the spoken word going on at any given time.

The Gayborhood

DC’s historic gayborhood has always been Dupont Circle, but unfortunately its bars and (until recently) bookstores were majority for gay men. The rent is also astronomical, forcing the new generation of queers into Takoma and other far-flung DC suburbs.

Diversity

While DC was historically a predominantly Black city, gentrification has caused the city to attract more wealthy white people. A 2017 Gallup poll found a whopping 8.6% of people self-reported as being some form of LGBT, prompting the New York Times to name us the “gayest city in America.”

Cost of Living

While the overall cost of living isn’t as inflated as it is in New York or San Francisco, we’re definitely in the national top ten most expensive cities to live in and rent prices are continuing to rise. In my opinion, visiting (or living) in the DMV area is not a cheap, easy, or accessible enterprise.

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Hopefully this guide helps to make queer DC easier to follow or understand! There’s a lot to love here, and I want you to be a part of it.

Queer Girl City Guide: Houston

This guide is written by an Autostraddle community member! The Queer Girl City Guides are compiled and written by volunteer community members who are excited to share their favorite places and experiences with you. They cannot be independently verified by Autostraddle. We also recognize that cities change and venues close. Due to team restrictions, these guides may not always be up-to-date as time goes on. Feel free to share your own info about these locations in the comments!

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Like many native Houstonians, I didn’t appreciate Houston when I was growing up here. To me, Houston was just a huge, humid, hot city with too many highways and not enough culture. I wanted to go out of state for college and never return.

That obviously didn’t happen.

Two things happened when I first left Houston: First, Houston became an actual cool city known for more than just the oil and gas industry, NASA and football. (Or maybe it was cool all along and just became recognized as cool). Second, I realized that I actually really love being from and living in Houston! Houston is an easy city to live in. Living here means having the amenities of living in a big city without (most) of the drawbacks. Our food is amazing! There’s always something to do! We have good jobs here! The people are friendly! The cost of living is low! The weather is nice most of the time! (That is, when we don’t get hit by devastating hurricanes.) You never have to spend an hour digging your car out of several feet of snow, only to realize that your car doors are frozen shut!

Most importantly, Houston may be in the South, but we’re a big city and most of the people who live here are open-minded. You can be a queer person in Houston and live a happy, fulfilling life.

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Welcome to the Gayborhood

Montrose and The Heights

Montrose has always been the center of LGBTQ life in Houston. It’s a cute, quiet neighborhood with plenty of things to do, and cafes, gay bars, great restaurants and places to get brunch. It also houses The Montrose Center, Houston’s LGBTQ resource center. The Montrose Center offers counseling and health services, as well as being a space for Houston’s LGBT groups and organizations to meet. The center is currently raising money to build the country’s second-largest affordable LGBTQ senior housing center.

The Heights is sort of a baby gayborhood — just north of Montrose, it’s an artsy neighborhood with some nice biking and walking trails, great restaurants, and cute, local shops (especially along 19^th Street).

The queer community is pretty small here, but all letters of the queer alphabet seem to get along. Even in a city of four million people, it feels like all the queers somehow know each other.

Queer-friendliness Around Houston
Austin gets the rep for being the blue oasis in the red sea that is Texas, but Houston should have its share in that rep, too. After all, we elected a lesbian mayor! I’ve never had anyone in Houston blink an eye when I tell them I’m gay, though I also work at a very queer-friendly magazine and I mostly socialize with left-leaning or liberal millennials. In my experience, that the further you get from the Inner Loop in Houston, the more conservative you’ll find the people. Of course, there are always exceptions.

Houstonians have a reputation for being friendly, and it’s pretty true! I didn’t realize that I’d taken my city’s friendliness for granted until I lived away. When I returned, I remembered how wonderful it is to wave at strangers while you’re driving or walking down the street. I’ve heard recent transplants tell me stories about how weird it is that everyone smiles at you all the time and how strange it is that people will strike up a conversation with you when you’re in line at the grocery store or in an elevator.

Pride

I’d never attended a Houston Pride event until this year. And y’all, Houston’s Pride — while hot, and sweaty, and held right when Houstonians don’t want to leave the air-conditioned indoors — is incredibly fun! There’s a Pride festival held during the day and the parade is held at night — all the more reason to break out the glowsticks and glitter! What’s better than celebrating without also having to bake in the sun?

The rest of Pride Week is rounded out with plenty of gay events, including an annual queer lady party at Pearl Bar. The only unfortunate thing about Pride in Houston is that a few years ago the parade was moved from the gayborhood, Montrose, to downtown. But that hasn’t dampened Houstonians’ Pride spirit, as hundreds of thousands of people continue to flock every year.

Diversity
Houston is the most racially and ethnically diverse city in the United States. The city has a long history of welcoming newcomers and immigrants. Over the past few decades has experienced a population explosion, which has contributed to the city majority people of color. Although Latinx, African American, Asian American, and multi-racia folks are well-represented in Houston, the city is still pretty segregated. We’re working on it. Houston’s diversity is part of what makes living here great, and knowing that any visitor or “Newstonian” can find their community here makes it even better.

Unfortunately, Houston’s diversity doesn’t extend much to sexual orientation. A Gallup poll from 2015 found that Houston has a smaller percentage of LGBT adults than other large cities at 3.3 percent (Austin beats us with 5.3 percent).

Laws/Regulations Affecting Queers
Although Houstonians elected a lesbian mayor three times in a row, and Harris County has turned blue in recent elections, Houston has been stubbornly antiquated when it comes to LGBTQ rights. In 2015, Houstonians voted against an anti-discrimination ordinance known as HERO (Houston Equal Rights Ordinance), which would’ve protected anyone who lives or works in Houston from discrimination based on sex, race, color, ethnicity, national origin, age, familial status, marital status, military status, religion, disability, sexual orientation, genetic information, gender identity, or pregnancy. Houston is now one of the only major cities in Texas, and the largest city in the United States, without an equal rights ordinance on the books.

Even more bad news: The Texas Supreme Court recently ruled that the same-sex spouses of Houston city employees aren’t guaranteed the actual benefits of marriage such as health, dental or life insurance. At the time of writing, this case was working its way up the federal courts.

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College Scene

Houston is chock-full of colleges and universities. The University of Houston is an outstanding research university with a great LGBT Resource Center. The school also has a minor in LGBT studies. The University of St.Thomas is a well-regarded, small Catholic liberal arts school that’s located right in the middle of the gayborhood. Rice University is a private university in the Museum District that’s often called the “Ivy of the South.” Rice has an active (and wealthy) gay alumni association. Texas Southern University is an historically black university and one of the largest HBCUs in the country, although it doesn’t have a formal LGBTQ student group at the time of writing.

Medical schools are also abound in Houston — naturally, as the city has the largest medical center in the world, the Texas Medical Center. The Baylor College of Medicine has an active BCM Pride group. The graduate school at the University of Texas Health Science Center (known as UTHealth) also has an LGBT Student Alliance.

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Sports

If you’re a sports fan, you’ll love Houston. Our major league teams include the Texans (although plenty of Dallas Cowboys fans live here, too), the Astros (who recently won their first World Series!), the Rockets, the Dynamo, and the Dash (queer ladies especially love going to Houston Dash games)! Sugar Land has its own minor league team, too, aptly named the Sugar Land Skeeters. The only team we don’t have here is a hockey team.

For those who want to play sports in a recreational league, I’ve really enjoyed playing kickball with the Houston Sports and Social Club, which offers a ton of sports to play on weeknights and weekends. Still, the HSSC can get a little too straight and bro-y sometimes. If you’re into softball, the LGBTQ Montrose Softball League Association might be more your jam.

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Getting Artsy

Houston is chock-full of fine and performing arts venues. It’s one of the few cities in the U.S. with professional companies in all major performing arts disciplines: opera (Houston Grand Opera), ballet (Houston Ballet), music (Houston Symphony Orchestra), and theater (The Alley Theatre and Theatre Under the Stars). These are a few more:

Museum of Fine Arts
1001 Bissonnet St.

With over 60,000 works of art in its collection, the MFAH is one of the largest art museums in the country. It’s a wonderful place for art nerds and newbies alike to spend a day wandering around the exhibits.

The Heights Theater
339 W 19^th St.

This restored early 1900s movie theater recently re-opened as a space for concerts, stand-up comedy, and other performances. It’s located smack-dab in the middle of the Heights, so you can catch a show and then wander along 19^th Street, where there are a ton of bars, restaurants, and cute local businesses.

The Menil Collection
1515 Sul Ross St.

The Menil is a true Houston treasure. Filled with unique, fantastic art for the art-minded and regular folk alike, the collection features interesting modern pieces mixed with some centuries-old African carvings. The admission is always free. When you visit, be sure to pack a picnic or bring a soccer ball as the Menil is smack-dab in the middle of a gorgeous green neighborhood park surrounded by cool, vintage bungalows and beautiful trees.

River Oaks Theatre
2009 West Gray

The River Oaks Theatre is one of a kind. With a beautiful art deco design inside, you can see the authenticity of the circa-1939 theatre in all its glory whether viewing a foreign film, indie flick, or attending the interactive Rocky Horror Picture Show (it’s the third Saturday of every month at midnight! Queers, queens, and movie nerds unite in a fantastic, freaky, ‘Frank N. Furter’ way!).

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Hair/Body Mod/Tattoos

Sacred Heart Studio
327 Westheimer Road

Clean, kind, quality, but with crappy parking. That’s all there is to know about this very professional tattoo studio operating out of a cool little house in Montrose. The place is exceptionally sterile, the staff is very easygoing and all are talented artists and good piercers. Every piece I’ve seen done here is great! Seriously though, the parking is horrific. However, if you’ve saved up the money and time to ink a piece of art that’s going to be on your body forevermore, you can suck it up and walk a block or two.

Bird’s Barbershop
420 E. 20th St.

I go to Bird’s to get my alternative lifestyle haircut trimmed, and I love it. The staff is friendly, they offer you free beer when you walk in, and the prices are reasonable. (They don’t charge you extra for your short haircut just because you’re a lady!) I’ve never had to wait long for a haircut when I’ve just walked in (probably because they’re still relatively new in Houston), and I’m always happy with the results.

The Electric Chair Tattoo & Piercing
8722 Richmond Ave.

My friends who have tattoos and piercings tell me that the Electric Chair is the place to be. It’s a classy, eclectic tattoo shop that looks and smells clean. It’s very queer-friendly.

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Books on Books on Books

Houston doesn’t have LGBT or feminism-focused bookstores, exactly, but our independent bookstores are still awesome.

Brazos Bookstore
2421 Bissonnet St.

Brazos Bookstore is Houston’s oldest and much-beloved independent bookstore. The bookstore has a huge selection and is always hosting visiting authors, events and partnering with other literary organizations in Houston.  During Pride 2017, they even hosted a drag queen story hour.

Murder by the Book
2342 Bissonnet St.

Mystery and crime fiction enthusiasts need to check out Murder by the Book. The store is one of the nation’s largest and oldest mystery specialty bookstores, and they have a calendar chock-full of events and author visits.

Kaboom Books
3116 Houston Ave.

I felt at home at Kaboom the moment I first walked in — everywhere you look, there are stacks upon stacks of used books (the bookstore boasts 100,000) in a surprisingly large space, and it’s easy to spend an hour or two wandering around the store.

River Oaks Bookstore
3270 Westheimer Road

River Oaks Bookstore is a small, cute, well-organized neighborhood bookstore with a friendly staff. Although they focus on local authors, their books span a vast number of titles and genres for children and adults. They also offer complimentary cookies and coffee for visitors.

Blue Willow Bookshop
14532 Memorial Dr.

Blue Willow says they’re a “merry band of booksellers with opinionated advice” and they’re right. The bookstore has plenty of books and events for adults, but where they really shine is their storytimes for kids and their book clubs (they even have one for middle school girls!).

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Nightlife

Pearl Bar
4216 Washington Ave.

Yes, Houston’s lesbian bar is called Pearl, a fact that never fails to make me laugh. Pearl has something for everyone. It’s a great place to go if you want to get your dance and drink on, if you just want to hang out on the patio, play giant billiards games, or see a local DJ spin. It’s so nice to have a queer lady-centric bar in Houston. I hope it stays around for years to come.

South Beach
810 Pacific St.

South Beach is the biggest laser light-filled LGBT club in town, hands down. The clientele is often more gay men, but it’s always got great house music, strong – if a tad pricey – drink options. It’s the place to go if you want to dance. On really hot, crowded nights, they will blast everyone with super cool laser nitrogen jets, which feels amazing. It’s a little piece of Miami right in the middle of Houston.

JR’s Bar & Grill
808 Pacific St.

Good ole JR’s has been around for years and is still going strong. The drinks are consistently good, there’s no cover, the staff is always friendly, and you’re almost guaranteed to be chatted up and to meet a new friend or two. This is a great location for Sunday Funday and karaoke.

Poison Girl
1641 Westheimer Road

Poison Girl is a low-key, dive-y hipster bar in the heart of Montrose with a solid, inexpensive beer selection and a decidedly chill atmosphere. The back patio is the place to be and you can impress your friends or girlfriend with your rad gaming skills on their pinball machines.

Lola’s Depot
2327 Grant

Lola’s is a dive in every sense of the word. The bright purple facade and jammed parking lot is the only indication you’ll know you’ve arrived because there is no sign on this beloved neighborhood bar. The drinks are super cheap (I’m talking under $2 during happy hour) and super strong. Every time I’ve gone the women have outnumbered the guys at least two to one.

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Eat Here Now!

Houston’s diversity has always lent itself to a delicious food scene — there’s Tex-Mex, BBQ, and food from several immigrant populations. You’ll get some amazing dishes and restaurants. In the last 10 years or so, Houston’s restaurant scene has really exploded. It seems like every day there’s a hot new restaurant or a hole-in-the-wall that everyone is talking about.

Antidote
729 Studewood Street

Antidote is everything I want in a coffee shop. It’s cute, relatively quiet, and has good drinks. There’s comfortable chairs and plenty of places to sit. It’s a great place to catch up with friends, read a book, get work done, or bring first dates.

Antone’s Po’ Boys
Multiple locations

Houston isn’t known for being much of a sandwich city, but Antone’s makes the case that it is one. I would come here just for the fresh-baked bread made locally, but their traditional and fried po’boys are also amazing.

Asia Market Thai Lao Food
1010 W Cavalcade St.

This restaurant/store located in a strip mall so it’s easy to overlook, but its authentic Thai food definitely stands out. The menu is huge and varied (it’s so hard to choose a dish!). I’ve also come here before just for the lemongrass chicken nuggets. When they say a dish is spicy, they’re not kidding. You’ve been warned.

Cafeza
1720 Houston Ave.

This artsy Latin American café and bar also doubles as a space for jazz and open mic nights. You can grab a coffee and a few churros, or a glass of wine and tacos. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the live music.

Les Givral’s
Multiple locations

The Les Givral’s on Milam Street always has a line out the door, and for good reason: they serve some of the best banh mi in the city.

Pi Pizza
181 Heights Blvd.

Star Pizza, Pink’s Pizza and Pi Pizza vye for the title of Houston’s best pizza restaurant. In my humble opinion, Pi Pizza wins. Their pizzas are creative, but still comfortable (you might think blackberries would be strange on a pizza, but they work!). If you’re not in the mood for pizza, their apps and salads are also stellar.

Pinkerton’s Barbecue
1504 Airline Drive

Like most Texans, I’m pretty picky about my barbecue. Pinkerton’s has stolen my heart and my stomach (and filled it with smoked meat). The chopped brisket sandwich (served in a jalapeno bun) is the best in the city. The ribs, whether glazed or dry, are fall-off-the-bone juicy and delicious. This is the place to take your out-of-town friends who want to experience good Texas barbecue. Pinkerton’s has a full bar, too, which is a plus.

Presidio
911 W. 11th St.

Almost every dish at Presidio was made with ingredients grown in either their own garden or from a local farm —making everything served here incredibly fresh. You’ll want to share their small plates with some friends. If it’s not ridiculously hot outside, grab a drink on their patio.

Teotihuacan
Multiple locations

You need Teotihuacan’s migas and chilaquiles in your life—or anything they offer, really. They’re the holy trinity of good Mexican food in Houston: they serve one of the best Mexican breakfasts in Houston, their food is super cheap, and their servers are friendly. What more could you want?

Weights + Measures
2808 Caroline St.

An excellent place to get your pizza and pasta fix. I would eat Weights + Measures’ roasted carrot pizza every single day if I could. Not only that, their pastas are made from scratch every day, and you can definitely taste the difference.

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Living Here Long Term

Cost of Living
Your dollar can stretch a lot in Houston. Texas doesn’t have a state income tax, and while its sales tax (8.25%) and property taxes are a little high (the average property tax rate for Harris County is 2.290%), rent and other necessities are cheap. Although rents are rising as more people move to Houston. According to RentCafe, the average rent for an apartment in Houston is $974. Studio apartments in Houston rent for $753 a month, while 1-bedroom apartments are on average $890 a month; the average rent for a 2-bedroom apartment is $1,088. (Full disclosure: I’m a journalist, living on a journalist’s salary, and my roommate and I were able to rent a nice three-bedroom, two-bathroom duplex in the Heights for $1550 a month.)

Safety
I’ve rarely felt unsafe while living in Houston, but I also grew up in a safe neighborhood in a suburb, and I currently live in a similar neighborhood inside Houston’s Inner Loop. The only times I don’t feel safe are when I’m at a gas station late at night with no one around, or while walking around downtown Houston (which, unlike other cities’ downtown areas, is almost always dead at night). That said, it’s not unlike other major cities that sometimes struggle with crime. Be aware of your surroundings when traveling to areas you don’t  know.

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We Houstonians are a social, friendly bunch, and I love the city even more because of it. Come on, join us for a bit!

25 of Your Most Alarming Travel Nightmare Stories

On our recent Queer Travel Survey I asked if you had any funny travel nightmare stories and I learned a lot about everybody and bedbugs! Also: food poisoning, brutal transportation delays and mix-ups, not being able to find your AirBnB, bedbugs and a surprising number of you thinking it’s a good idea to save money on lodging by “staying up all night” in foreign cities where you don’t know the language and have all your luggage with you!!!

I probably have 100 travel nightmare stories myself, I enjoyed all of yours, and here are some of them — note that they have been edited for clarity and length!

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1.

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2.

I was set on fire in Amsterdam on accident by a girl who was very high. Kids! Don’t mix drugs & play with lighters — especially near other high people with big curly hair. I ended up shaving it all off and looking equally sexy shorn as I did when I had hair like a lion.

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3.

So, I went overseas for a month to see my partner, who it turned out had left me for their stepsibling. That was a month-long nightmare. Don’t do that.

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4.

When I was 12 I got my first period on a cruise ship with my extended family (a group of 15). It was the morning of one of the two “land days” we had on the trip so we were in a bit of a rush to get off the boat and make the most of our time in Fiji. The plan was to go snorkeling, and I really wanted to go, so I had to learn how to use a tampon pronto, but the ones my mum gave me were very hard to figure out, especially in my room’s tiny toilet cubicle with no help from the internet. I also had (then undiagnosed) PCOS so I’d be intermittently overcome with bouts of pain. I thought I got it in okay so we headed to the bus but I soon realised (very, very painfully) that the cardboard applicator was in my vag along with the tampon. By the time we got to the snorkeling place I was crying from the pain and the fear I wouldn’t be able to go snorkelling.

I dashed into the toilets with my Mum and explained the issue, and she bought some pads from a nearby store and brought them to me — but couldn’t avoid some of my family members realising what was up. When I got back to the bus where the large group of cruise shippers were gathered, my well-meaning grandpa came up to me, still sniffling, gave me a big hug and said very loudly in front of the entire group “Don’t worry love, I have to wear nappies too.”

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5.

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6.

For our honeymoon, my wife and I went to Maui. Our first day there, jetlagged as hell, we watched a man have a stroke and die on the resort beach after his family had pressured him into going snorkeling. It… set a tone.

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7.

I was 14 and really in love with the only cis boyfriend I’d ever have. We were going on a trip to Poland together — we were in a socialist youth group and went to visit Auschwitz and Cracow and do historical tours around Jewish life in Poland during and after Nazism. But then he got scared and we broke up a few weeks before the trip. It was awkward, and I tried to avoid him, but he wanted to pretend everything was fine. He even booked a room with me! I was shocked and told him no, staying with another group member instead. Throughout the trip he kept wanting to talk. I tried to avoid him.

Things finally escalated in an actual escalator (lol) where I shouted at him for kissing me after breaking up b/c he didn’t want my parents to know. Everyone in the escalator obviously became the poor innocent audience to this awkward fight. He wrote “vengeance is not justice” on a piece of paper and gave it to me. I spent the rest of the week avoiding him and meeting awesome new socialist friends and comrades in Poland that I’m still friends with today.

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8.

I was staying at a hostel in Reykjavik, Iceland, that was known for its party vibe, which I somehow hadn’t realized when I booked it. After a long day of travel I woke up late on a Saturday night to the sounds of three different pairs of people in my six-person room all having sex. I sought refuge in the lounge — but two people were hooking up there, too. So I went to the bathroom for a shower, where, of course, I found even MORE people hooking up!

I ended up walking around outside by the waterfront at 3AM in my pajamas and flip-flops without a coat.

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9.

The last time I travelled was for an academic conference which was held in Florida. I had to share a bed with a girl I didn’t know very well. She screamed in the middle of the night for no reason, there were elephants (I assume) on the floor above ours running back and forth across their room all night long, and our hotel was so moldy we could hardly breathe, which I’m pretty sure caused the sinus infection that I still have. Also, it was during Hurricane Michael and we were in the storm surge zone. The things I will do for a line on my CV.

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10.

My wife and I are jinxed to have people invade our room. In Paris someone was given a key to our room at like 2 AM — we went down to the concierge to get him a new one, but he was too stoned to care, so we went back to our room. We woke up about an hour later to a guy standing at the foot of the bed in his underwear. He told us he’d come through our window (a three-story climb) and he seemed to be tripping balls. Again, the concierge didn’t care. Later our friend asked us, “how long do you think he was standing there before you woke up?” Very glad that hadn’t occurred to us until we were home!

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11.

I was in a motorbike accident on an island in Thailand and ended up having to get surgery on my ankle in a local first aid tent. The wound was infected and the doctor said it was gangrene! It eventually got better after a hospital stay. But then I was attacked by a monkey who thought the covering for the injury was food?

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12.

I once stayed in a very old and remote traditional Japanese guest house near Mt. Fuji and decided to start watching American Horror Story the first night I was there. I spent the next two nights feeling like I was about to be murdered anytime.

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13.

I went into the Peruvian Amazon for five days on a camping tour. Usually at the start of an organized camping tour, they go over things like how to go to the bathroom, packing toilet paper, whatever else you need to know. This was not a very well-organized tour so none of that happened. We didn’t see land for three days and I just didn’t understand how they were going to the bathroom! Did they hang on the side of the canoes? Immerse themselves in the water? Everything seemed messy and like I was not coordinated enough to pull it off. Well, I ended up in a real emergency after about 24 hours. With both men about 50 feet away I hung off a platform they had put my tent on that was maybe 10 yards in the air and did what I had to. You could hear it drop into the water and I was terrified I would slip and fall the 10 yards into the river into my own shit.

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14.

My college boyfriend refused to break up with me before I left for Australia for six months. He bought tickets to meet me, broke up with me while I was gone to try and date someone else, then came to visit me and acted like we were together again since he was there. Then, we spent one month sleeping in the back of a station wagon driving around the country, while he tried to coerce me into liking him again!

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15.

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16.

When I went to NY with my best friend for her birthday, we got so fucked up that, as we were walking from our hotel to our next destination to drink more, she was walking backwards, tripped over a little gate around a tree, fell on her face, and broke her front two teeth. Had to go to the ER and was there for hours before heading to the dentist first thing in the morning. We had to get her false teeth for the weekend. STILL the best weekend of our lives.

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17.

When I studied abroad in Morocco after my first year of college, I was walking home carrying my bag over my shoulder after a weekend trip to the desert with my friends, despite the fact that our host parents had told us walking wasn’t a good idea. I justified it because I walk all the time and it was only 20 minutes away. As I’m walking, a boy on a bike rode by and grabbed the purse I had on my shoulder away from me. I tried to give chase, but he was much faster and I was very tired, so I gave up and sat in the middle of the road on top of my suitcase, crying hysterically. That bag had everything I needed in it, including the passport I’d need to leave the country in a few days.

Less than a minute later, a group of businessmen driving by asked what was wrong. I was able to communicate to them in French what had happened. They told me they’d take care of it. I stayed sitting on my suitcase, expecting to never see them again. Less than five minutes later, the car drove back and one of the men handed me my purse! This made me cry even more. They offered me tissues and snacks and a ride home. Even though I knew getting into a car with a bunch of men I didn’t know wasn’t the best idea, I accepted, too exhausted to keep walking — and they took me home. I think they were glad to see me go because my crying was making them very uncomfortable! So that’s the story of how I (almost) got pick pocketed in Morocco.

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18.

My wallet was stolen in the Notre Dame in February. I think it happened because I’m Jewish, and the Christian god was smiting me for not leaving any alms in the church.

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19.

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20.

I fell down the stairs in Blarney Castle and almost started a domino effect, but managed to stop myself after a few steps and did not kill my entire tour group. I was, however, very muddy and very sore. (For those who haven’t been, the staircase is a tight spiral and the steps are unforgiving and steep, and often slick with, well, mud.) But I kissed that dang stone!

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21.

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22.

When I went to Morocco, I was super super careful about the water situation the whole time — until 5am on our last day when I was so sleepy that I ran my toothbrush under the tap without thinking. We returned to Spain later that day, and I felt a little funny. The next morning, after walking 30 minutes to school, I SUDDENLY. FELT. THE. FEELING. I told my professor I had to leave. She said, “yeah, you look sick,” but in Spanish, you say “yeah you have a bad face,” so like, thanks. I started for home… but there was A BUS STRIKE and A STUDENT STRIKE! (I love and respect the striking tradition but omg, bad timing.) So I WALKED home — by which I mean “waddled” as I was trying to hold all the liquids inside me ’cause I ALSO STARTED MY PERIOD THAT MORNING. I got to my host family’s house and locked myself in the bathroom — they were an adorable elderly couple concerned for my well-being and I was a fountain of unspeakable substances destroying their guest bathroom. The bathroom, by the way, was floor-to-ceiling marble and glass, aka the most ECHO-Y BATHROOM KNOWN TO MAN. It was also sandwiched between their bedroom and my host dad’s office. I spent four days locked in that room, and poor Paco heard every bit of it from his lovely leather and wood study.

Victoria kept trying to feed me DEEP-FRIED GARLIC FISH because it is good for you. She also kept trying to sterilize the bathroom in between incidents, and I’d have to go ask her to leave so I could have more loud periody diarrhea. Anyway, Paco finally convinced her to stop with the garlic fish and give me some crackers, and I slowly regained control over my bowels. Paco was not able to look me in the eyes for several weeks.

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23.

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24.

My then-partner I were on the Colombian island San Andres. We stayed at a lovely place and the owners allowed us to borrow bikes. The island is bikeable so this is great, things are going great, we’re touring the whole island, we’re getting through some intense wind and eventually rain, we lock our bikes up nearby a beach to hop in the water when the torrential downpour starts up again. We go to get out of there when my partner realizes she can’t find the key. We scour the beach, people try to help, but to no avail. We finally call the owner who sends her son and friends to clip the locks. I’m wet and miserable, evening plans were ruined, so we bike back silently and angrily. We get back to the place we’re staying, change and dry off, when I hear a metal clang from my partner. She had tucked the key in her bathing suit top and, despite checking this spot, had not found it on her person.

At this point the situation was laughable and she doesn’t know this but I still have the key in my possession.

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25.

Scenery: the middle of nowhere, Iceland. One of those “I can see it happen but there’s nothing I can do to stop it” situations — the car door closed and locked from the inside. No jacket, no money, no more battery. It was foggy and freezing and I had no idea what to do or how to break into this car. Then, OUT OF NOWHERE, a lesbian Canadian couple shows up. They give me a ride to the next gas station and offer me homemade vegan guacamole sandwiches.

After I’m all set, they proceed off into the unknown. Thinking back I believe they came from rainbow-glitter-fairy-wonderland to save my ass. In conclusion, maybe we are rare to find around the globe, but when you really need us, we are there.

Queer Girl City Guide: Paris

This guide is co-written by Autostraddle community members, Erica and Isabel! The Queer Girl City Guides are compiled and written by volunteer community members who are excited to share their favorite places and experiences with you. They cannot be independently verified by Autostraddle. We also recognize that cities change and venues close with time. Due to team restrictions, these guides may not always remain up-to-date as time goes on. Feel free to share your own info about these locations in the comments!

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Bonjour! We’re Erica and Isabel, two American Straddlers living the Queer Girl City life in Paris, France. We’re looking forward to sharing all of the best and queerest parts of Paris with you, whether you are swinging through for a quick visit or moving here forever.

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Getting Around: The Arrondissements, Transportation, and a Note about Gendered Language

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements, or zip codes, numbered in a snail shell pattern from the middle going clockwise outward.

The 18^th, 19^th and 20^th arrondissements are where you’re more likely to find women holding hands, with whom you can successfully exchange knowing grins and nods. These arrondissements are less gentrified and fancy. They also tend to be calmer since there’e a lower concentration of typical tourist sites. If you’d like your afternoon to be focused on spotting hip queers instead of visiting museums, you should install yourself on a terrasse in one of these arrondissements.

Public Transportation

Paris has three main forms of transportation: the metro, the RER, and the bus. Driving in Paris is a nightmare and we do not recommend it.

The public transportation is easy to navigate and is reasonably priced. Depending on how long you’re in town, you’ll either want to get a ten-pack (“carnet”)  or pay for one ticket. One important thing to know is that each ticket lasts for an hour and a half after you validate it (at least in theory; we’ve gotten burned on this a few times).

A downside to Paris’s public transit is that it’s not universally accessible to people with reduced mobility, especially people in wheelchairs. Many of the metro stations (except on line 14 and RER E, the newest ones) require maneuvering multiple flights of stairs, with no guarantee of an escalator or the ability to roll between the train and the platform. Buses are equipped with ramps, but, in the world’s most inexcusable move, drivers will sometimes lie and tell wheelchair users that their ramps are out of order because they don’t feel like stopping. The RATP website for route planning has a checkbox for accessible routes.

A Note on Gender and Language

There’s no commonly used gender-neutral pronoun for people or gender-neutral suffixes for adjectives in French. The rule in French is that masculine adjectives prevail when discussing subjects of mixed genders. Modern and progressive French people generally try to be more inclusive in their speaking and writing. For example, some people will write “toutEs” or “tout-e-s” and say “toutes et tous.” Recommendations for a more egalitarian grammar can be read here. The gender neutral pronoun “iel” (il/elle) is used by some people, but most people will not have heard of it and might scoff and try to correct you (not that this should deter you!). Additionally, there are no gender-neutral honorifics. Unless you are in a specifically queer setting, be prepared for you or your androgynous companion to receive a cheery yet constant barrage of “Bonjour, messieurs-dames!” (“Hello, Mr. and Ms.!”), though they may try to correct themselves with a “Ah… mesdames” after their #heteronormativityfail.

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Bars/Clubs/Parisian Nights

La Mutinerie
176-178 rue Saint Martin, 75003

Ah, La Mutinerie. If we could only include one entry in this guide, it would be this. We actually met for the first time at this beloved dyke bar! La Mutinerie – meaning “mutiny” – calls itself a bar that is also a “festive, cultural, and political space,” and it feels like a true refuge from the omnipotent gay male bars nearby in Le Marais and Paris’s hetero spaces elsewhere. The first Parisian lesbian I asked for her opinion on La Mutinerie described it as “fun; sticky.”

La Mutinerie is a place where you can play pool, experience performance art (ex/ Alok Vaid-Menon performed to a packed house), check out the lending library, dance to music ranging from dancehall to reggaeton and trap during weekly DJ sets, get a queer haircut or a tattoo (monthly events), attend a queer film screening, learn how to hack, or participate in a trans support group.

It’s a community center, a place to get drunk and dance, watch baby dykes be adorable and amazing, and a true holdout in the age of the dying lesbian bar.

If you are queer and live in or visit Paris, you MUST stop by La Mutinerie!

Bar Ouf
182 Rue Saint Martin 75003

Immediately next to La Mutinerie is the slightly calmer, less crowded Bar Ouf. Bar Ouf (slang for “fou,” meaning “crazy” or “madcap,” with positive connotations), is where spiky-haired women in tank tops, bandanas, and cargo pants come to play cards and board games earlier in the day and then play pool, drink, and smoke on the sidewalk in front of the bar at night. Some men have reported not being welcome because of their perceived gender, while others have reviewed it favorably. Bar Ouf seems to be intended as a “mostly-women space”, take that for what you will.

Rosa Bonheur
2 Allée de la Cascade, 75019 (inside Parc des Buttes Chaumont) // Port des Invalides, 75007 (on the river Seine)

Rosa Bonheur was a French artist, animalière (a new word I just learned meaning a “painter of animals”), and sculptor who lived in Paris in the 19th century and is buried in the famed Père Lachaise cemetery. Rosa Bonheur is also a pretty awesome bar with two outposts; one floating on a boat on the Seine and one at the top of the hill in Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. The owner of both bars is a queer woman who uses her venues to support queer endeavors and events. Overall, both locations are extremely queer-friendly, some nights they host parties specifically for the LGBTQ+ community. The music is good and both bars are well-designed for dancing.

3W Kafé
8 Rue des Ecouffes, 75004

3W stands for “women with women.” Thursday nights are for karaoke and burlesque, cabaret parties are also held every few Fridays. To be honest, this bar is known for being somewhat old-fashioned and not extremely popular, but you will be sure to find ladies making out with each other there so we have included it. There’s a “Gay Tea Dance” on Sundays for queer men and women that goes only 2am.

So What

This is the evil twin of 3W Kafé. This bar/club is also known for being somewhat old-fashioned and not extremely popular, but you will be sure to find ladies flirting. It’s the bar that saves you when you are drunk, it’s already 2 am, you want to be surrounded by queer ladies and everything else is closed!

Le Tango

Old fashioned queer dance place! Kitsch, playing american and other pop music, and open to queers of all genders. People come here to have fun and dance, and probably not to impress anyone besides themselves.

L’Enchanteur

Best karaoké place ever, located in the basement of a queer and hetero-friendly bar. This is one of the only places where you can sing until 2 am on weekdays. There is always a drag show to close out the night. It makes you feel like you are in Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

La Kidnapping

La Kidnapping is a queer woman and trans people party that started around 2009 and takes place with irregular frequency (but soirées can be detected by following their Facebook page). Kidnapping parties are very queer, unapologetically weird, and quite proud of their happy mess. These parties are also used to fundraise for various causes.

Wet For Me

Held every two months either in the circus tent Cabaret Sauvage in Porte de la Villette or at La Machine du Moulin Rouge in Pigalle, Wet For Me is the “biggest, but not necessarily best” party of queer Parisian nightlife. People of all genders are welcome; the only requirements seem to be to love dancing to really, really loud electronic music and to look effortlessly edgy. Get pre-sale tickets online, usually 14-16 euros, because these parties are often sold out or require long wait times to get in.

Barbi(e)turix

Barbi(e)turix is like a Paris-specific event planning/ community website hybrid. They have a regularly-maintained website with excellent resources for being a queer woman in Paris (it’s like this guide, but x100). On top of the  relevant articles, there’s event promotion. They also create and distribute a fanzine around Paris. Their artwork and language are very cisgender woman-centric (lots of vulva imagery), but in practice their events and media have appeared to be welcoming and inclusive of trans people.

Jeudi OK

Jeudi OK is a weekly party thrown in conjunction with another queer-friendly group. They usually take place at Wanderlust and the entrance fee is free before 10pm and 5 euros after. We have not personally been to a Jeudi OK party, but they seem pretty electronic/hardcore/sticky.

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Community Spaces

Paris/Île-de-France LGBT Community Center
63 rue Beaubourg, 75003

The LGBT Community Center provides a safe space to hang out, free legal advice, discussion groups and counseling. There’s also exhibits, in-house activities, snacks and condoms, and resources with info on over 80 LGBTQ-related groups and organizations from around France. There are one million pamphlets available on any LGBTQ-related topic you can think of, including: health, sex, youth homelessness, and niche interests like queer ballroom dancing.

Les Grands Voisins
82 avenue Denfert-Rochereau, 75014

Les Grands Voisins is a bustling cultural hub and maybe the best place ever. It offers visitors a cafe, a cafeteria, a bar, a plant store, galleries, concerts, artist studios, craft workshops, film screenings, meditation and yoga classes, campgrounds, vegetable gardens, and bee hives! Down the street from the entrance to the famous catacombs and in the site of the old Saint-Vincent-De-Paul Hospital, about 2,000 people live in the Les Grands Voisins’ (“The Big Neighbors”) mixed-use occupancy housing, including refugees and those seeking emergency shelter. Residents prepare and serve healthy hot lunches for about 5-10 euros and a 15 euro brunch on the weekends. All of the people frequenting Les Grands Voisins are not necessarily queer, but it is for sure a safe space to be out.

La Colonie
28 Rue la Fayette, 75010

Artist Kader Attia opened this super cool three-story space for “art, music, critical thinking, debate, and cultural activism” in 2016. Intended to highlight and support the voices of minorities, La Colonie draws a very racially diverse, often very queer crowd to their dance parties, lectures, conferences, and film screenings. They are also a popular venue during Queer Week, hosting events such as a Witchcraft Workshop, Projections: Queer Rituals, Magic,  Witches on Fire dance party, a Decolonizing Sexualities conference, and an Anti-Capitalist and Decolonial Trans-Party Panel.

Queer Week

Queer Week is an annual event (usually mid-March) that includes movie screenings, discussions on various intersectional topics, workshops on subjects like kink and polyamory, an exploration of queer sites in Paris, lectures on historical figures important to the LGBTQ+ movements in France, and excellent parties.

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Films and Theatre

MK2 Quai de Loire and MK2 Quai de Seine
7 Quai de la Loire, 75019 // 14 Quai de la Seine, 75019

These two movie theaters face each other from opposite sides of the Bassin de la Villette in the north of Paris. The theaters and the surrounding cafés and restaurants have been described by a local queer as “where you could go on a Sunday night on a date, or out with a friend or an ex, and then run into another ex.” Accurate, in our experience.

Chéries-Chéris Film Festival

The aforementioned movie theaters also host a pretty great LGBT+ annual film festival in late November.

Rosa Bonheur x Cinema du Pantheon
13 Rue Victor Cousin, 75005

In addition to being a popular nightlife facilitators in Paris, Le Rosa Bonheur also hosts ongoing free film screenings through the Cinema du Pantheon theater by Jardin de Luxembourg. They tend to be of interest to queers and are often in English. The theater is comfortable and has been open for over 100 years! Recent screenings include Look at the Pictures (the Robert Mapplethorpe documentary), Tom of Finland , and Jackie.

Le 7e Genre
39 Blvd Strasbourg, 75010

One Monday per month, the 7e Genre gathers Paris’ queers cinephiles at the Brady Theater to view films with LGBTQ themes. Calling themselves the “cine-club that defies norms,” selected films tend to be a mix of old and new, French and international. In 2017 their line-up included lesbian classics Go Fish and the Watermelon Woman. Le 7e Genre also often raffles off free tickets to LGBTQ screenings at Forum Des Images (a movie theater in Les Halles) via their Facebook page.

La Compagnie dans le Ventre

The theatre company “La Compagnie dans le Ventre” (“The company in the belly”) is directed by the inimitable (and often in various states of undress) Rébecca Chaillon. Many of their works revolve around themes of bodies behaving in unconventional ways, including being queer. You can follow their Facebook page to see if they will be performing nearby when you are in town!

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Bookstores and Magazines

Violette & Co
102 Rue de Charonne, 75011

This feminist and queer bookstore is so wonderful that we can’t help but sigh gently in delight when we walk in. With sections dedicated to topics like “Polyamour/kink” and “Afrofemism/futurism,” and with most books by queer and women authors, this is the kind of store that you wish were your own living room. Even if you don’t read in French, it is still worth a visit.

Les Mots à la Bouche
6 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, Paris

Very popular LGBTQ (with an emphasis on the G) bookstore in Le Marais. Friendly environment, extensive selection of both new and rare books, magazines, comics, and films, with additional inventory downstairs. Definitely worth a stop!

Well Well Well

Well Well Well  is a lesbian and queer oriented French zine that was started as the project of Paris-based activist journalist Marie Kirschen. Because Well Well Well is created completely by volunteers and does not profit from ads, it’s only been released once per year. The thick magazine is full of interviews with and articles on queer ladies, including icons from around the world and local queers fighting their own fights and telling their own stories. There are also comics, illustrations, and photography. Well Well Wells can be found in these locations throughout town.

Friction Magazine

Friction is an online magazine that primarily reviews queer events and opines (from a queer point of view) on other non-mainstream events and news. It also has some interviews.

Simonæ

Simonæ is a feminist magazine that’s sort of like Autostraddle, but for not just queer people and also it’s in French. The name of the magazine reflects their commitment to using non-gendered language. In their writing, they sometimes use “æ” as the adjective suffix for people of unknown gender or agender people. If you want to practice reading in French, this is an excellent source of material!

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Marches

Gay Pride, la Marche des Fiertés, is a yearly event that began in 1977. Like in most large cities, it’s pretty huge. When I asked someone where was the best place from which to watch the parade, she responded: “We are the parade!” Many organizations have floats, with one of the most relevant ones being the Lesbotruck. It feels a bit less corporate than large Pride marches in the United States. For example, companies do not distribute rainbow swag to the onlookers. However, some people feel like Paris pride has become too gay-male and party-focused.

Pride de Nuit (Night Pride) is the intersectional, activist, honoring-Pride-as-a-riot response to the “gentrification of our battles” (meaning, the accusation that Paris Gay Pride has become diluted to serve mainly the interests of wealthy, white, gay men and, to a lesser extent, lesbian women). It has taken place for the past three years on the night before the Pride parade. The 2017 Pride de Nuit manifesto can be found here. It affirms that the participating organizations fight for policies and justice for intersex individuals, documented and undocumented migrants and refugees, sex workers, incarcerated people, and others who have been marginalized by mainstream pride and economic liberalism.

Existrans is a march for trans and intersex people and their allies that has taken place every year since 1997. The Collectif Existrans, the organizers of the event, also organize Paris Transgender Day of Remembrance. While this march is considerably smaller than the Pride marches, it is sizable nonetheless, and the sense of solidarity among the marchers is very strong.

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Groups and Collectives

Self-ish

Self-ish’s mission is to create space for women and queer, trans, and non-binary folks to express themselves in a safe and supportive environment. As you might imagine, the overall scene is both incredibly endearing and very fierce. Marie or “Eiram,” the awesome human who started Self-ish, is bilingual and committed to making events inclusive – open-mic nights feature artists and performers sharing work in both English and French. They host events in locations around the city once per month or so, and have held pop-ups in amsterdam, Berlin, and Brussels.

Lesbians Who Tech

Paris’s chapter of the global Lesbians Who Tech (LWT) organization started holding casual meet-ups late 2015, and the community has been growing ever since. The first Paris LWT Summit happened in June 2017. Meet-ups are held about every two months in a bar. They usually feature presentations by local techies followed by hours of mingling, chatting, and networking. If you are a queer person in tech, or if you just like vegan sliders and PowerPoint presentations, check it out!

Polychrome

Polychrome is a collective that organizes events on the subjects of representations of the body, gender, and desire. The events include guest lectures/visits, movie screenings, conferences, performances, and parties, at a rate of about four-to-eight per month. You can learn about their events on their website or on the QueerParis Facebook page.

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Parks

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
1 Rue Botzaris, 75019

In the 19^th arrondissement, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is a popular hangout for shirtless gay men, and women that are either gay or just so happen to have asymmetrical haircuts. The caves, waterfalls, suspension bridges (one designed by Gustave Eiffel), a temple, an artificial lake, two great bar/cafés on opposite ends, and spectacular views make this parc truly special.

Parc Montsouris
2 Rue Gazan, 75014

In the southern 14^th arrondissement is the lovely Parc Montsouris, opened in 1869 by the Emperor Napoleon III. Beloved by locals but lesser known by tourists, this little pocket of serenity boasts two black swans, rose gardens, innumerable lawns for picnicking, playing soccer, hammock-ing, unicycling, and sunbathing. There’s also at least three playgrounds for children. The outer circumference of the park is about a mile, making it a desirable exercise destination for neighbors.

Jardin des Plantes
57 Rue Cuvier, 75005

The main botanical garden for France, Jardin des Plantes is great to walk around in, admire the botany and horticulture, and smell the flowers! The Museum of Natural History is also on the grounds, and right across the street is the Grand Mosque of Paris, the perfect place to enjoy a mint tea and traditional sweets in the courtyard (the hammam is also a fun experience). For us, it’s one of the most interesting parks in all of Paris!

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Soccer (and Other Sports)

Many women’s soccer clubs and teams are not explicitly queer, but overall the women’s soccer scene is overwhelmingly queer. The two most open-to-newcomers and chill teams are the following:

Football Club Arc-en-Ciel has existed since 1997, and is Paris’s first football club created for the purpose of fighting homophobia. Intersectionality-speaking, the club now firmly takes stands against discrimination based on religion, gender, place of origin, age, and health and ability level. They have three women’s teams based on age and seven- or eleven-a-side playing, and are accepting players of any ability level.

Les Dégomeuses is a soccer team that focuses on refugee support, anti-racism/sexism/transphobia, and the inclusion of girls, women, and trans people in sports. There are twice-weekly, optional practices, and they participate in several tournaments per year. The team welcomes cis and trans women, trans men, and genderqueer players of all levels. They organize several tournaments throughout the year for soccer clubs and refugees. In 2017, the team released a brochure on girls and women in soccer called “À toi de jouer : filles et garçons, égaux sur tous les terrain” (“Your turn to play: girls and boys, equal on all fields”). The Dégos welcome new players each September, although it is possible to check out practice year-round!

Two other rec teams that play competitively but are slightly more difficult to integrate one’s self into are the Cacahuètes Sluts and USTB . They are composed of more tightly-knit friend groups, but are always in theory accepting new players.

UGirlz is a women’s sports community that facilitates the organization of friendly matches for five-a-side soccer. They organize games for members only, and also advertise games, workshops, or teams that are public or just need an extra few girlz. You can join UGirlz or lurk on their Facebook page for a chance to play.

Sous les Shorts des Filles

Although you might blink in confusion at the name, Sous les Shorts des Filles (“under the shorts of girls”) is a non-profit organization that offers women the chance to practice and try new sports in a convivial, casual setting. They partner with local teams in all kinds of sports – including volleyball, soccer, rock climbing, ping pong, LARPing, aquagym, judo, Gaelic soccer, foosball, etc. – to organize small tournaments and practice sessions every few weeks. They are open to all on a first-to-sign-up-via-Tumblr-first-serve basis. Trans inclusive.

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Coffee and Food

What you’ve heard is true, the restaurant scene in Paris is amaaazing. If memorable and high-quality food is important to you, we recommend budgeting for a few nice meals into your Paris plans, about $20-30 per person for a sit-down lunch and $25-50 each for a special dinner. Note that tipping is not expected as it’s built into the prices (service compris). If you felt the service was exceptional, leaving an additional 5-10% is a good idea. Also,none of our recommendations are explicitly queer, but they are very tasty and have been consistently welcoming in our experience.

Cafés

Ten Belles
10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010

Ten Belles is Paris’ equivalent of Portland’s Stumptown or L.A.’s Intelligentsia: it’s expensive, but the coffee is undeniably excellent and quite strong. The people who work there are English-speaking and only a little pretentious, and the ambiance is très cool. This little hipster cafe takes their food offerings more seriously than most. They also sells pastries and very tasty sandwiches. No wifi – but the cafe’s popularity lends itself better to a coffee date (potentially romantic or otherwise) than working, anyway.

Le Pavillon des Canaux
39 Quai de la Loire, 75019

At the northern point of the Basin de la Villette sits a giant house. Except this is a special house, because every room (even the bathroom) has been designed to accommodate people sitting and having a meal or a drink. The kitchen downstairs features an extensive menu of coffee, juices, delightful cocktails, and other alcoholic beverages. They have consistently excellent baked treats and serious brunch on weekends and holidays. Le Pavillon also offers various workshops and classes, culinary, crafty, and otherwise, and a monthly schedule can be found online.

Aux Ours
236 rue des Pyrénées, 75020

Aux Ours might be a bit out of your way – it is located in Gambetta, the beating heart of the 20^th arrondissement – but if you want to see no tourists and don’t mind inhaling vast quantities of cigarette smoke, you can do no better. An espresso or café allongée at the counter is one euro and the food, both Sunday brunch and daily offerings, is always satisfying. In the summer, the tables are moved outside and are full from morning til night. In the winter, a seafood vendor sets up shop next door and patrons enjoy fresh oyster platters with white wine.

Bakeries

Du Pain et des Idées
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010

Bakeries are ubiquitous in Paris (in the best way possible), but this beautiful one near Canal St. Martin is our favorite. From the fruits rouge (red fruit and cream cheese) escargot to the sweet and eggy sacristain to the hearty pain des amis bread, this place can do no wrong. Don’t be dissuaded by the long line – it moves quickly and is well worth your time. If the picnic table outside the bakery is full, walk down the street and dig into your blue bag of delicacies on the banks of the canal. Beware, in a bold move for a place that sells essential breakfast items, Du Pain et des Idées is closed for the weekends.

Maison Landemaine
Various locations

There are several excellent bakery/pastry shop chains in Paris, and Maison Landemaine is one of our favorites (okay it’s tied with Maison Kayser). Their baguette traditional is more sourdoughy than those from other bakeries. They also have perfect quiches, pizzas, and pains au chocolat.

Restaurants

Soul Kitchen
33 rue Lamarck, 75018

Soul Kitchen has a popular fixed price lunch that’s around 15 euros for a salad, main dish (the options change daily), and dessert. In the mornings and afternoons they also offer a large selection of juices, coffees, and pastries, all served by super friendly and lovely staff. Soul Kitchen is a friends-owned-and-operated joint and they recently started closing on the weekends so that they can spend time with family. Free wifi.

Abri
92 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010

For 26 euros, under-the-radar Abri (“shelter” in French) serves a four-course meal that is creative, delicious, and beautifully-presented. The Japanese chefs prepare food in the middle of the small restaurant and actually customize each meal to the customer to ensure that regulars try something different each time. The desserts crafted in the back of house are consistently awesome. They’re also super sensitive to asking about food allergies at the beginning of the meal. Reservations are a must!

If you like Abri, you might also enjoy: French Bar au Vin, Clown Bar, and Au Passage.

Le Tricycle and Jah Jah by Le Tricycle
Le Tricycle – 51 Rue de Paradis, 75010 // Jah Jah by Le Tricycle – 11 Rue des Petites Écuries, 75010

In a city where cheese and charcuterie reign supreme, hip, healthy vegan spots are hard to come by. Not only are Le Tricycle and Jah Jah by Le Tricycle (an offshoot, but started by the same owners) super cool and delicious, they’re also the first Afro-vegan restaurants in Paris. What started as a food cart mounted on a tricycle evolved into two brick-and-mortar storefronts, where friendly, English-speaking staff serve vegan hot dogs, bento boxes, bowls, salads, and juices. Roasted cauliflower, lentils, carrots, beets, avocado, and plantains dominate each restaurant’s menu, and many dishes are served with delish dipping sauces. There is super pleasant upstairs seating at Le Tricycle and plenty of tables in the spacious Jah Jah, as well.

So Nat
5 Rue Bourdaloue, 75009

How brightly colored can food be and how cutely can it be packaged?  How many emojis can be used in place of words in an actual business’ social media announcements? SO NAT answers these questions and more. Their food is fresh, healthy, beautiful, and delicious. Plus, SO NAT is woman-owned and can be found around town participating in various eco-focused festivals and catering at parties.

Sandwiches and Crepes

L’As Du Fallafel
34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004

Some call it an overhyped tourist trap, while others swear by this Le Marais institution’s Middle Eastern offerings. If you’re not deterred by the line winding down the block or the heckling from the workers on the sidewalk trying to dissuade you from choosing the falafel restaurant across the street, for six euros the falafel sandwich is one of the most filling vegetarian-friendly meals in Paris. The falafel balls are hot and generously portioned, the roasted eggplant is awesome, and the guys preparing the pitas at the take-out counter are friendly.

La Droguerie
56 Rue des Rosiers, 75004

Right down the street from L’as du Fallafel is La Droguerie, a funky hole in the wall creperie. La Droguerie is a cut above your average crepe stand, with both sweet (Parisians love Nutella) and savory (get ready for the crispy melted cheese) crepes available in a variety of combinations. It’s also location ripe for people-watching.

Au P’tit Grec
68 Rue Mouffetard, 75005

Located in the Latin Quarter’s super photogenic Rue Mouffetard is Au P’tit Grec, the Left Bank’s most popular crepe joint. Filled with students from the local Sorbonne, Au P’tit Grec offers huge crepes for cheap. As its name suggests, Au P’tit Grec has a Greek influence in several of its menu offerings, such as a savory crepe stuffed with feta cheese, grilled eggplant, tomatoes, and egg, in addition to the classic gamut of sweet – lemon, sugar, Nutella, banana.

Creperie Plougastel
47 Rue du Montparnasse, 75014

In street that is jam-packed with crepe restaurants, the unpretentious Creperie Plougastel is our favorite. There’s rarely a line, the cider cups are adorable, and the crepes are super solid. If it doesn’t meet your needs, there are literally about 11 other Breton (from the Brittany area of France) crepe places to choose from on this one block.

Breizh Café
109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

Breizh Cafe is a slightly fancy creperie option. They take reservations, offer special crepes filled with top-notch seasonal ingredients like scallops and pears, and have Aesop soap in the bathroom (we’re obsessed, but it’s way too frugal to buy my own). There’s also an epicerie selling high-quality imported foods from Brittany next door. There’s no to-go option. Reservations a must for afternoon dining, they take the call between 9:30am and 11:30am.

Chez Alain Miam Miam
39 rue de Bretagne (inside the Marché des Enfants Rouges) // 33bis rue Charlot, 75003

Alain is maybe the king of Parisian sandwiches. The line is always so long here that we’ve only been once, but it was super memorable! We were the first customers there at 9am and Alain chatted with us as he finished chopping onions. He then took about ten minutes crafting each of our three sandwiches, giving us samples to choose which cheese we preferred, slicing the meat, and then letting the fresh bread, cheese, meat, and bounty of vegetables all melt together into “the best sandwich you’ve ever had,” according to Alain, who is not lacking in confidence. Once we unwrapped our still-hot sandwiches at the Versailles gardens an hour and a half later, we couldn’t disagree. Goddamn, Alain. Be prepared to wait over an hour for your sandwich if you come at peak times.

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Shopping

Guerrisol

Guerrisol is Paris’ equivalent to Goodwill or Savers. They’re spread throughout the city, but our favorite is in the 14^th arrondissement by the Alesia metro. You have to be somewhat motivated to sift through the racks and piles of clothes — some of which, admittedly, are ripped, stained, or just plain musty — but it can definitely be worth it. We’ve found vintage French designer tops (Cacharel, Agnes B., Paul & Joe) for three euros, perfect condition Japanese denim for 2.50, and some super cool handmade dresses. We’ve never spent more than five euros on a single item, and some days pants, tops, and swimsuits are as cheap as 1.50 euros. Prices change daily depending on when new shipments are coming in.

Chinemachine
100 Rue des Martyrs, 75018 // 10 Rue Des Petites Ecueries, 75010

If you’re a little more Buffalo Exchange than Goodwill, Chinemachine is for you. Embracing a “buy, sell, trade” model, Chinemachine is noticeably less expensive than the city’s many consignment stores, and they sell everything from A.P.C. to Christian Dior to a French grandma’s old (but chic, of course) sweater. The staff tend to be a little cooler than thou, but that doesn’t stop us from coming back again and again.

A.P.C. Surplus
20 rue André Del Sarte, 75018

A.P.C. is known for its minimalist, classic designs. Think striped shirts, raw denim, patterned button-downs, and chic trench coats. While A.P.C. is available in the US, in Paris we have the luxury of having access to the A.P.C. outlet – er, “surplus” – where everything is 30-50% off, all the time. Jeans are typically 80 euros instead of 160, t-shirts are 30 instead of 60. Might be a good place to get a new suit or interview outfit, depending on your budget.

Porte de Vanves Flea Market
Avenue Marc Sagnier & Avenue Georges Lafenestre, 75014 Paris
Saturdays and Sunday 7:30am-1:30pm

The marche aux puces – flea markets – in Paris are a bit of a thing, with tourists flocking to the most famous one at Porte de Clignancourt on weekends. However, if you venture south you’ll find a flea market of manageable size, with fair prices, and friendly (albeit mostly non-English speaking) vendors. Bring cash, get there early, and practice your numbers in French ahead of time (especially 1-20, as most items will be under 20 euros). Great for housewares and kitchenware, antique books and photographs, knickknack souvenirs, and jewelry.

Nous
19 Rue Clauzel, 75009

I’ve taken each of my two exes to this adorable blink-and-ya-miss-it ceramics and homewares store and have confirmed that queers of all gender expressions love it! Nous is the perfect place to stock up on mugs for lesbian nesting and plates and cups to throw the intergenerational queer dinner party of your dreams. This business is woman-owned and carries products made in France, Japan, and the US by artisan craftspeople. They also have a pretty fabulous website that in addition to listing all of their covetable products, also features interviews with makers whose crafts they carry. There’s also interviews and house-inspo photos from meals shared with stylish friends.

Pigalle Basketball
17 Rue Duperre, 75009

Pigalle is a Parisian high-end streetwear brand started by Stéphane Ashpool, who also happens to love basketball and the ‘90s. In 2014, Ashpool opened Pigalle Basketball as an outpost to sell custom-designed and Nike collaboration products. Most clothing styles are unisex, and your girlfriend is going to look really hot in their Pigalle Basketball tank top. The shop has become famous due in part to its location across the street from the super photogenic and quite beautiful Pigalle basketball court. It’s run by super friendly staff and prioritizes establishing relationships with the neighborhood youth who often stop by the shop to say hi and borrow basketballs before darting across the street to shoot hoops.

Decathlon
203 boulevard Macdonald, 75019 // 113 Avenue de France, 75013 // 26 Avenue de Wagram, 75008 // 23 boulevard de la Madeleine, 75001

Decathlon is the sporting goods store that’s the combination of REI and Dick’s Sporting Goods, but with an even more complete inventory. You may ask: “Does Decathlon carry [obscure equipment] for [literally any sport]?” The answer is “yes, yes it does.”  It’s the Parisian equivalent of Home Depot for queer women – technically it’s for everyone, but we claim illegitimate ownership. Beware: Decathlon is one of those stores where you walk around and suddenly realize you NEED things that you previously did not know existed.

Marthe’Oh

If you promised to bring your queer friends back home a souvenir from Paris, find local designer/illustrator Marthe’Oh in pop-up markets around the city or order directly from her website. Her repertoire includes screen-printed shirts and bags, patches, scarves (so French), and colorful prints. Her designs have some tongue-in-cheek queer humor that was not immediately obvious to me as a non-native French speaker. For example, one of her most recognizable shirts, designed around the time the gay marriage was about to be legal in France (and was therefore being protested against vigorously), said “GENRE” which means both “gender” and is also a way to say “bullshit.”

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Cut your Queer Hair

Les AffranchiZ
5 Rue des Envierges, 75020

Once, we passed a purple graffiti-covered shopfront and the freshly shaved undercut of a woman sitting inside caught our collective queer eye. We went in to determine whether Les AffranchiZ might merit inclusion in a QGCG. When we mentioned this article to several of the people working there, they told me happily that half the staff was queer. And the clientele? “Oui, aussi ;).” Les AffranchiZ – the was name chosen to mean “emancipated” or “without prejudice” – does cuts and coloring, uses organic or 100% natural products, and fosters a safe and comfortable space for clients.

Les Mauvais Garçons
34 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 75004 // 60 Rue Oberkampf, 75011 // 3 rue Neuve Popincourt, 75011

Translated to “The Bad Boys,” Les Mauvais Garçons is a barbershop pretty clearly geared towards handsome cisgender men looking for a hipster cut with an old-school aesthetic. However, my partner (who isn’t a cis man) has had only very positive experiences getting fades (haircuts include wash and a quick scalp massage!) at the Île Saint-Louis location.

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Get or Stay Healthy and Moisturized

Healthcare Options

Gyn&Co

Thank goodness for community-driven initiatives like Gyn&Co. The website facilitates access and care for people who don’t fit the “dominant model,” as the site says — anyone who is disabled, queer, non-white, seropositive, trans or intersex, etc. The Map page is very helpful.  Care providers can also be searched for by category and name. Importantly, there are separate pages on knowing your rights relating to health and what to do in case of abuse.

Website in French, but doctor pages list different languages spoken.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies in Paris are in a league of their own. Identified throughout the city with flashing neon green crosses doing acrobatics, Paris’ 993 pharmacies stock medication, homeopathies, cosmetics, vitamins, hair care products, beauty treatments, tampons/pads, and first aid. The folks who work at the pharmacies tend to be very knowledgeable, highly trained, and speak at least some English. In this sense, Paris is a pretty good place to get sick. However, be aware that pharmacies in Paris are much more geared towards medication than somewhere like CVS in the US; you will likely not find snacks, magazines, disposable cameras, etc. in a French pharmacie.

Citypharma
26 Rue du Four, 75006

Facial care in Paris is a thing , with Citypharma in Saint-Germain being the epicenter of it all. If you’re claustrophobic, do not come here. If you love a good deal and thrive off a Parisian Black Friday type of environment, it’s a thrill. The two-story building is perpetually overflowing with very stylish older French women and tourists stuffing their suitcases with bulk products, which are cheaper here than anywhere else in the city.

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Know Your (Legal, Queer) Rights

When You’re Ready to Take Your International Relationship Beyond “Facebook Official.”  If you decide to officially commit to your French partner, you are in luck! There are two types of legally-recognized unions in France and queer couples can do either of them. Civil unions, called pactes civil de solidarité (PACS), are seen like an intermediate for marriage, with neither all of the benefits not all of the responsibilities granted. PACS are limited to non-married, cohabiting adults who are not direct ascendants/descendants or siblings. (Cousins can be PACSed.) Since 2013, same-sex marriage has been legal in France, with all of the rights and obligations as straight marriage.

Childbearing/Adoption. Until mid-2017, the outlook for IVF (procréation medicalement assistée, or pmA) for queer lady couples was bleak (pmA was legal only for straight couples who couldn’t conceive the traditional way, or who risked passing on serious genetic disorders). However, at the time of writing, President Macron has begun laying the groundwork to open pmA to queer couples and single women. Great! Surrogacy arrangements are not legal in France. PACSed couples cannot adopt children jointly; only one partner will have legal rights to an adopted child. Married couples can adopt jointly, and one partner can legally become the parent of a spouse’s partner.

Employment/Housing. Discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity for employment, housing, and other public and private services are all illegal!

Gender. As of January 1, 2017, transgender individuals may change their legal gender without undergoing gender affirmation surgery. Trans people no longer need to have a psychiatrist assess their need to change their legal gender, but they still need to provide evidence that their assigned-at-birth gender is not their actual gender to a judge (Tribunal de Grande Instance). Trans activist organizations are currently asking for the removal of this procedure.

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Bonus Tourist Info

If you’re under 26 years old, an EU citizen or long-stay visitor, and/or a student – be sure to bring photo ID! Many places all across the city offer free or reduced admission to folks who fit in those categories.

Sainte-Chapelle
8 Boulevard du Palais, 75001

It costs about ten euros to get in (compared to nearby Notre Dame which is free) but, this 14^th century slice of history is truly magical. Let the photo be a teaser – part of Saint-Chapelle’s glory is the “surprise” element of just how truly lovely the upstairs chapel is, especially on a sunny day! Another option for visiting is to attend a classical music concert in the evenings: student tickets are twenty euros and you can linger for a bit after it ends.

Palais Garnier
8 Rue Scribe, 75009

Hot tip: at the Garnier Opera House, you can get partially obscured tickets to ballet and opera performances for ten euros! Considering it costs eight to ten euros just to tour the incredibly ornate 19^th century opera house, and event tickets are otherwise 40+ euros, this is a steal. The seats are typically not terribly obscured (at the box office they’ll show you the map of what’s available so you can pick) and the theater itself is unbelievable. The Marc Chagall ceiling is super special and the performances are typically top-notch. Plus, you’ll feel so cool and fancy and it’s fun to look at everyone at intermission. The view off the balcony at sunset is gorgeous!

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Get ready to fall in love ❤️

Queer Girl City Guide: Ann Arbor and Ypsilanti

1. Gay Ann Arbor & Ypsilanti
2. Gayborhoods & Pride
3. Restaurants & Cafes
4. Nightlife
5. College Town Life
6. Sports
7. Farmers Markets & Co-Ops
8. Hair & Tattoos
9. Bookstores
10. Other Shopping
11. The Great Outdoors
12. Marijuana Culture
13. Entertainment Venue

Gay Ann Arbor & Ypsilanti

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Who Wrote This Guide?

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The Gayborhoods

Ann Arbor: Kerrytown / Braun Court

Ypsilanti: Depot Town

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Restaurants & Cafes

Coffee & Ice Cream

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Queer Nightlife

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For The Love of College Towns

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Spectator Sports

Ann Arbor Derby Dimes

University of Michigan Athletics

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Farmer’s Markets & Co-Ops

Ann Arbor Farmers Market // 315 Detroit St. // Kerrytown

Ypsilanti Farmer’s Market

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Hair & Tattoos

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Bookstores

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Shopping

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The Great Outdoors

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It’­s “High Time” You Paid Us A Visit

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Entertainment Venues

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Take Autostraddle’s Very Exciting LGBTQ+ Travel Survey!

Next month I’m giving a presentation at a Lesbian & Gay Travel Marketing conference and as I sat down to consider the pressing reality of this commitment and the looming deadline for me to turn in my draft, I thought, you know what would really help me with this? If I knew more about how y’all travel!

And then, of course, the more I thought about it, the more I decided this would be great information to have about you in general, especially as we perhaps eventually consider expanding the A-Camp wing of our business in the future. It’ll be great material for lists and articles, and also for helping us understand what kind of coverage you want in the world and what kind of human beings you are.

There’s questions about traveling for weddings, about your travel experiences as an LGBTQ+ person and/or a POC and/or a disabled person, about what you do when you travel, where you like to stay — so many things I’d like to know about you! (I’m not done analyzing the Lesbian Stereotypes Survey, don’t worry)

Here’s the survey: you should take it!

Also if you had fun taking this one, you should ALSO take The Community Marketing Survey on this exact topic! There are two questions I snagged from their survey and adapted for this one, but the rest of it is pretty different, and they’ll give us the results of all the Autostraddlers who took the survey when it wraps up in December, so.

The Second Annual LGBTQ Outdoor Summit: A Magic Alternate Reality Where Everyone in the Outdoors is Queer

all photos by Carrot Quinn

A coyote wanders along a narrow lane between white World War II military barracks, past mule deer browsing on the grass. Beyond the barracks, the ocean gathers itself up and crashes at the shore. Surfers paddle out beyond the breaking waves, their wetsuits black dots against the open water. To the south great cliffs wreathed in fog jut into the sea.

I’m at Fort Cronkhite, a WWII military post on Ohlone and Miwok ancestral land turned education center called Nature Bridge for the second annual LGBTQ Outdoor Summit. The first one, last year, was a one-day event at the REI in Seattle.

This year’s event is three days, and features dozens of workshops and speakers. There are queer and trans folks here from every possible facet of the outdoors community: from land management to outdoor education to conservation to employees of gear companies. It’s morning, and queer park rangers sip coffee and eat forkfuls of eggs with queer employees from the National Wildlife Federation and the (queer) CEO of Merrell. There are hundreds of people at this conference, and the number of organizations represented is staggering – so many queer people, doing so much good work. I feel as though I have been dropped into an alternate reality where everyone in the outdoors community is gay. It is amazing.

I’m a long-distance hiker, which means that I spend several months a year out in the nature, crossing great distances using only my legs and sleeping on the ground. I’ve walked across the US three times. Long distance hiking is a niche activity with its own niche community – a community that, like many outdoors communities, is unfortunately fraught with misogyny, racism, fatphobia, transphobia, and ableism. Being a part of this community is hard, but if I want to connect with others who also long distance hike, I must carve a place for myself there. In my other life, I’m part of the queer community on the West Coast, and have been for fourteen years. The queer community feels like my one true real home – socially, politically, spiritually – but queer culture is an urban culture, and I don’t know many queers who spend a good deal of time in, or build their lives around, the outdoors.

“It feels like I’m living a double life,” says a cute person in Carhartts during a go-round in the first workshop of the day, Cultivating Gender Inclusion in the Outdoors. “Like I’m two different people.” I feel tears come to my eyes. I have never head another person say this secret thought of mine out loud.

“I wish there were more people in the outdoors who looked like me,” says a Latina woman with a topknot. “Just going into the wilderness with my friends feels like a radical act.” There are sighs and nods of agreement all around the room. Though billed as an LGBTQ Summit, many of the attendees here inhabit other marginalized identities as well, and so this conference is a container to unpack the exclusion and lack of representation of all of these communities in the outdoors – in outdoors media, in positions of power in outdoor organizations, even in the clothing options at outdoors retailers.

“We want to know how to serve the LGBTQ community,” say representatives from Patagonia, Hipcamp, The North Face, REI, and Merrell, during an outdoor industry panel. “What do you need from us?”

“Larger sizes of clothes!” says the audience. “The clothes are too small. And there need to be more functional pockets in women’s clothing!”

“Pockets! Pockets! Pockets!” chants the audience.

“Why do you use a teepee as your logo?” asks one person, of Hipcamp.

A trans woman raises her hand. “I’ve always worn Merrell shoes,” she says. “But after I transitioned I couldn’t find my size. Why don’t you carry a broader size range in feminine styles?”

The industry representatives shake their heads. There is nothing they can do. It’s all beyond their control. They’re so sorry.

The empty platitudes of green capitalism aside, having so many brilliant, inspiring, fearless people doing such good work around accessibility and inclusion in the outdoors in one place makes me feel a little drunk, and I try to focus on that as I fill my plate with incredible food during lunch. Today is a taco bar, and there are warm tortillas, perfectly seasoned meat, and every topping you might want, as well as fresh veggies for salad.

Each meal has gluten free and vegan options as well. Being fed three meals a day while staying in a bunkhouse full of natural light next to the sea and going to workshops where we vent about toxic masculinity in the outdoors is like a dream vacation to me, and I am reminded what a privilege it is to be here at all.

Conferences aren’t cheap. This one cost $295 for the full summit pass, which includes lodging and meals for all three days. I haven’t been to any conferences since the half-baked anarchist conferences of my early twenties, which were catered by Food Not Bombs, and I’m only here because I got a free ticket in exchange for writing about and photographing the event for Autostraddle. I think about the folks I know who would have loved to come to an event like this, but couldn’t afford it or get the time off work. I think about who is represented here and who is not. I think about what’s possible, and what sorts of things might happen in the future.

Now I’m in Pinar and So Sinopoulous-Lloyd’s workshop, Queering Ancestral Skills, and they’ve handed out a number of handmade objects to be passed around: a birchbark basket, the plaster cast of a beaver track, a spindle of wool. I hold a handmade wooden spoon to my face and inhale deeply. I can smell the fire that made this spoon, the forest where the wood was harvested. I imagine the sap running down the treebark, the clean wind blowing through the canopy. We smell and touch the objects as Pinar and So talk about the way that “survival skills” are conceptualized in popular culture (Bear Grylls’ settler-colonial dominance of all things wild, for example) vs. the very real survival skills that so many marginalized folks have already cultivated, and the way that these adaptations can translate to a wilderness context. It feels so wonderful to be in this room with all these queer folks who have as much of a spiritual connection to nature as I do, handling these special objects that were crafted, with love and intention, from that nature. It’s like I didn’t know how much I was missing this in my life, until I was here, today, in this chair. I look in the basket. There’s an acorn in there, rolling around in the bottom.

In the evening there is a fire and I sit watching the flames and listening to peoples’ conversations, marveling, again, at hearing IRL discussions about things I have only ever seen discussed online. Access to outdoors spaces for disabled folks. How folks of color should be paid for their labor in educating white communities. Ways to address the culture of toxic masculinity in the outdoors. Having these conversations IRL feels valuable to me in a way I wasn’t expecting; we feel safer, I realize, when we can talk about things in an actual group. We’re held by each other’s presence. We can read and respond to body language. It’s easier to be vulnerable. Seeing each other, and being seen in this way, feeds us. It sustains us. I wish again that more queer people I knew – the farmers, rural organizers, climbers, and bike tourers – could come to this conference, or something like it, especially in the current political climate. Is hashing out the hard things together IRL, in spaces intentionally set up for marginalized communities, the solution to our current alienation? And if so, how do we make that happen?

“I went for a walk on the beach today, and saw three seals that had been rehabilitated being released,” someone says. Sparks fly, rising up towards the moon, which is nearly full. “I saw a great blue heron!” says another voice, in the dark. “I saw a family of otters,” says another, and the crowd murmurs in approval. From the near dark comes the yipping of coyotes, quiet at first and then louder, and the humans around the fire fall silent. I try to freeze this moment in my memory, to keep with me after the conference is over, when I will return to that other world, the one in which I am two different people: the long distance hiker and the queer person yearning for social justice, staring at a screen, scrolling and scrolling, searching for a way to connect the two.

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At the LGBTQ Outdoor Summit I asked everyone I photographed the same question: “In the future, what do you want to see more of in the intersection between marginalized communities and the outdoors community?” Click through to the next page to see the portrait gallery and read everyone’s answers.

Queer Girl City Guide: Indianapolis

This guide is co-written by members of the Autostraddle Indianapolis meet-up group, the Indystraddlers!

Hi folks, Brandalynn here – I grew up in a suburb on to the south of Indianapolis convinced my whole life that I would leave as soon as I got the chance. Staying in the city for university (what’s up #IUPUI) lead me to realizing that Indy had a lot more to offer than I previously knew and I kinda love it now. To be honest, queer community can be hard to come by – it was this feeling that drove me to found Indystraddlers (Indianapolis’ Autostraddle meet-up group) in 2014, but we’re here and holding on in Indianapolis. A small group of us from Indystraddlers have put this guide together for you and I for one am super excited to get to share a piece of my city with you all. Let’s meet the rest of the team and dive right in!

Jacqui: I’m your typical cat-loving sporty queer aspiring nurse. As a nomad, I’ve found my home and my people in Indy playing rugby and roller derby. I’d say Indy is a pretty average place for queers, but I’ve lived in places far more accepting (Washington, DC) and far less accepting (the Rio Grande Valley of Texas). It’s a very family-centric city, so I get more flak from my coworkers for not wanting a life with kids than I do for dating women.

Candice: I’ve been in Indianapolis for a little over three years now and spent 18 years between Miami (FL) and Atlanta (GA), followed by 4 years in Statesboro (GA). I moved to Indianapolis to get the city life on a much smaller scale and so far, it’s been alright. I was definitely surprised to find the small pockets of folks around the city and despite some of the politics, Indy is an alright place to spend time in.

Stephanie: I’m a lifelong (27 years) Indianapolis bi girl with a love for our city’s food and beer culture and a hope that it grows ever more inclusive for queers of all kinds. Our city has grown a great deal in my time here, and I’m excited to see what the future brings!

Hannah: Indianapolis has been my home for the past 2 years, but it feels like a lifetime. I’m a Hoosier by birth, and I moved here to the “big city” to find people and experiences that would excite and challenge me. I love my city and I love the people in it. It is still a Midwestern town, but I see it becoming more and more open all the time, and our queer community is fierce. Most visitors I have are pleasantly surprised by how much they enjoy the Crossroads of America.

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School Daze: Colleges in Indianapolis

Indiana University
Butler University
University of Indianapolis
Marian University Indianapolis
Ivy Tech Community College

Several of Indiana’s main universities reside in Indianapolis! IUPUI (or Indiana University Purdue University Indianapolis if you prefer a headache) is a public university home to degree programs and schools from both Indiana University and Purdue University. With an undergraduate student body hovering around 30,000 and selection of degrees found few other places in the world, IUPUI embraces its eclectic nature and recently opened an LGBTQ+ Center. Butler University is a private school home to just over 4,000 undergraduate students. While it may be known largely for its athletics, Butler students are making waves in Indianapolis as TRANSform, Butler’s gender diverse student group, pushes their school towards becoming a safer and healthier environment for gender-expansive people. UIndy, or University of Indianapolis, is a private school on the south side of the city. Marian University is the smallest and most private of those included in this list but is impacting the state in large ways as it is became Indiana University’s sole competitor as a medical school in 2013. Last but truly not least, we have the Central Indiana branch of Ivy Tech Community College. Affordable and accessible it is Indiana’s largest public postsecondary institution as it serves almost 200,000 students per year.

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Sports

Indianapolis has been branded as the “Amateur Sports Capital of the World.” As an amateur athlete, I (Jacqui) can attest that there are plenty of opportunities to get your sport on. Though most of these teams aren’t specifically queer, you’ll probably run into lady-loving-ladies at a higher rate than in the general populace.

Roller Derby

Naptown Rollergirls
Circle City Derby Girls
Race City Rebels
Indianapolis Junior Roller Derby

Naptown Roller Derby has been around Indy since 2006, and has consistently been a D1 or D2 team (top 40 or 60 worldwide) since their inception, though we’ve ditched the fishnets since then. Athletes going by skater names, such as Maiden America or Ruthless Beater Ginsburg, grace the flat track on three teams: the Tornado Sirens (A/Travel team), Warning Belles (B team), and the Third Alarm (C/Fresh Meat team). The home season generally runs from late January/February till June, with training camps and tryouts twice per year.

If Naptown isn’t enough Roller Derby for you, you can also check out the Circle City Roller Girls (another female team, less competitive than Naptown), Race City Rebels (a men’s team, though technically there aren’t gender restrictions, and there are often cis women who play with the team), and the Indianapolis Junior Roller Derby (co-ed, U18 teams).

Rugby

Indy Hoydens
Circle City Tempests

Indy is home to two women’s rugby teams, the Hoydens and the Circle City Tempests. Both team’s competitive seasons run August-October and tournament season from March-May, and accept new players at the beginning of either season. Whether you’re continuing a college passion, or just looking to start something new and badass, the Hoydens and the Tempests offer an accepting and fun home for everyone.

Women’s Football

Indy Crash

Along with 50 other teams throughout the US, Canada, and Mexico, the Indy Crash is part of the WFA (Women’s Football Alliance) league. Since 2010, Indy women have been defying stereotypes and playing full-contact football on Indy’s southside. With a home season running from April to June, the Crash invite women to get active and involved to play like a champion.

Professional Sports

The Colts
The Pacers
The Indy Eleven
Indiana Fever

I guess non-amateur sports deserve a shoutout here too. Indy is home to two major league sports teams, the Indianapolis Colts (Football) and the Indiana Pacers (basketball), a minor league baseball team the Indianapolis Indians, a minor league hockey team the Indy Fuel, and D2 Professional soccer team, Indy 11. Our claim to fame in women’s sports is the Indiana Fever women’s basketball team, who last won the WNBA championship in 2012. Finally, any section on sports in Indianapolis wouldn’t be complete without mention of the Indy 500, of car racing fame. Held every year over Memorial Day weekend, the “greatest spectacle in Racing” features 33 cars racing 200 laps of the Speedway and approximately 300,000 race fans partying all day long.

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Eat, Drink, and Be Merry

Were you looking for a city guide put together by a bunch of Yelp-fueled foodies? If so you’ve come to the right place!

Lez Brunch

The Garden Table

The Garden Table is a locally sourced restaurant and cold press juicery with two Indy locations, one on Mass Ave and one in Broad Ripple. Rotating seasonally, their menus are moderately sized but provide fresh and interesting options. They have the standard brunch booze options but their fresh juices push the flavor profiles to the next level. You can escape the wait of the weekend brunch crunch by grabbing a spot at the bar.

342 Massachusetts Ave and 908 E Westfield Blvd

hours vary by location

Cafe Patachou

Billed as “a student union for adults since 1989,” Cafe Patachou is a local brunch place with something for everyone. They have multiple vegan and gluten free options, including desserts, alongside standard breakfast fare and a self-serve coffee bar. Being downtown, this location can have quite a wait on the weekends but the food and service are always worth it. There are multiple Patachou establishments across the city, each with their own specific flavor and focus, each worth a visit.

225 W. Washington St

Mon-Fri 7am-3pm, Sat-Sun 8am-3pm

Milktooth

Milktooth may be one of the most hipster places in Indy, in the best possible ways. While it opens at 7am, it only serves coffee and pastries until 9am when full-service brunch starts. The full brunch menu has options that you can’t find anywhere else in Indy, which can be intimidating as modifications and substitutions are politely declined. Between the general hype that surrounds it and the truly impressive quality there is almost always some sort of a wait. If you don’t have time to spare, they have a walk-up counter that serves coffee and pastries to go or enjoy while you wait.

534 Virginia Ave

Wed-Tues 7am-3pm, closed Tuesdays

Lincoln Square Pancake House

Lincoln Square Pancake House is the perfect local diner chain, with 11 locations across the state with seven of those being in Indianapolis. It’s affordable, consistent, and has a decent array of gluten-free and vegetarian-friendly options. If you’re a coffee person, not only is their brewed coffee delicious but they provide near constant refills and offer to go cups in case you still haven’t had enough.

613 West 11th

2330 N Meridian St, Mon-Sun 7am-4pm

Love Handle

This little brunch spot is tucked away in one of the lesser-known neighborhoods of Indianapolis. The decor is delightfully kitschy — items you’d find in your grandpa’s basement or the antique store next door adorn the shop. The food is well underpriced for the quality you receive. Biscuits and gravy, eggs, meats, and sandwiches are all crafted here with excellence. And you’ll have to go back — the Midwest classic, biscuits and gravy, changes ingredients every week. Hit up the antique store next door before or after and you have the perfect Sunday brunch date.

2829 E 10th St

Mon & Tue CLOSED, Wed-Sun 8:30am-2:30pm

Looking for Linner?

Thunderbird

Thunderbird is the place for creative, southern-inspired cuisine in Fountain Square. Not only can you get a bucket of fried chicken with sides to split (feeds 3-4 and is delicious) but they also offer a “From the Smoker” dish that changes daily. That being said, it’s not the best options for vegetarians unless you’re just looking for a place to drink. Their cocktails are different and innovative and strong af.

1127 Shelby St

Closed Mon; Tues-thur 11am-12am; Fri-Sat: 11am-3am; Sun 11am-10pm

Shapiro’s Delicatessen

Yes, a cafeteria-style restaurant made this list of Indy must-sees. Shapiro’s is a traditional Jewish deli that has been around since 1905. Their in-house bakery is stunning, featuring bagels and breads, cakes and pies, rugelach and other small pastries, and even a rotating selection of gluten-free options. Most famous for their corned beef, pastrami, and brisket sandwiches, you should be prepared to share or take home leftovers if you choose to indulge as their portion sizes are monstrous.

808 S Meridian St

Mon-Sun 6:30am-8pm

Bazbeaux Pizza

Voted “Best Overall Local Restaurant 2016″ by NUVO Readers’ Best of Indy, Bazbeaux Pizza is the place for local pizza. All three locations have pizza by the slice available from 11-2 pm weekdays in house, the option of outdoor seating, and offer lunch and dinner delivery for full menu items. Not only do they offer gluten-free crust, dressing, and dessert options, but also all pizzas can be made vegan. They’re great for groups and once served me (Brandalynn) in a mug that said World’s Best Dad, so 5/5 stars from me.

333 Massachusetts Ave

Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm

Shoefly Public House

When I (Stephanie) worked at this little pub in Fall Creek Place, I spent more time drinking and eating here with my sweet coworkers than I did on the clock, and I have nothing but rave reviews of the place. The owners are committed to the neighborhood and to providing local, seasonal cuisine that’s somehow both eclectic and homey. For those with children, the kids menu is superb. The bar serves only wine and beer (no liquor), but the wine-based cocktails are absolutely delicious, and the beer menu never fails to impress me. There are specials during the week too — ramen on Tuesday, fried chicken on Thursday, and rotating tacos du jour. The patio is wonderful and spacious in the summer, and there are even house-made treats for your pooch. Shoefly hosts a variety of events, including live improv comedy, trivia, live music, and yoga in the side yard. Shoefly manages to be family-friendly, pet-friendly, and queer-friendly in its own homey way. Try the yucca fries with aji sauce and one of the craft beers on draft or go all in and order a full serving of the no-meatloaf. You won’t regret it when you have leftovers for lunch the next day. Come more than once and the staff will start to know your name. You’ll probably make friends here if you stay long enough.

122 E 22nd St

Closed Sundays, Mon-Weds 11am-10pm, Thurs-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat 10am-11pm

Indianapolis City Market

While it doesn’t have an exclusively queer vibe, the City Market is its own hubbub of culinary experiences and a weekly summer farmer’s market that takes over the adjacent Market Street. You’ll find coffee, a vegan restaurant, shopping, pizza, soups, Indian cuisine, a bakery, chocolates, tamales, and a local craft beer bar all under one roof. The Market is super accessible by bike and public transit, with the Transit Center directly across the street and the Cultural Trail nearby. Most of the shops and restaurants close in the evening, but it’s a great (though crowded) place for a quick lunch.

222 E Market St

Closed Sundays, Mon-Fri 7am-9pm, Sat 8am-9pm

Paco’s Tacos

Paco’s Taqueria makes the city guide because it’s my (Candice’s) girlfriend’s favorite taco spot in the entirety of Indianapolis, and we spend a loooot of time eating tacos. In the art of many taco-car wash/laundry/tan hybrid joints, the food is quick, easy on the wallet, and delicious. I highly recommend visiting as a pre-derby game experience (less than 5 minutes from the arena), or on Sundays, when all tacos are half priced. The best thing is that this particular taco shop has incorporated morning hours, so you can pick up your morning fix as you head off to fight the patriarchy, wash your car, or whatever fancy you find yourself up to. Top recommendation: carne asada tacos.

4390 N Keystone Ave

Mon-Sat 7am-9pm, Sun 8am-9pm

There’s Always Time for Desserts

BRICS

The line to BRICS is usually out of the door, but never fear — walk-up windows are here! BRICS is conveniently located along the 4.4 mile walking trail known as the Monon. They carry between 24-36 flavors at a time, including vegan options as well. It’s a great place to hold small meetups; bring your pets as well as your partner(s).

901 E 64th St

Sun-Thurs 12pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 12pm-11pm

Long’s Bakery

Identifiable by their plain white boxes, Long’s Bakery has been serving up fresh donuts to Indy locals since 1955. They’re most famous for their plain glazed yeast donuts but they offer a huge selection of yeast and cake donuts, tea cookies by the quarter pound, mini pies, and cakes. Being cash-only doesn’t stop lines from forming daily, so be forewarned.

1453 N Tremont St

Mon-Sun 5:30am-10pm

Mamá Ines Mexican Bakery

Mamá Ines Mexican Bakery has been bringing delicious traditional Mexican sweets to Indiana since 1999. With item prices frequently hovering around $1, their $10 credit minimum can be a challenge to reach if you’re not prepared to go home loaded down with awesomeness. In addition to their pastries they offer a range of tres leches cakes that are as beautiful as they are rich.

2001 W Washington St

Mon-Sat 7:30am-9pm, Sun 8am-9pm

The Gallery Pastry Shop

The Gallery Pastry Shop is the ultimate date dessert spot. Come here after your dinner for coffee, tea, wine, champagne, and a wide selection of snacks and desserts, complete with a hot chocolate bar. This place is a magic fairyland tucked away in south Broad Ripple, guaranteed to make anyone swoon. The backyard is simple and elegant, with lights strung up all around — your date will feel like the royalty they are. The Gallery is known to employ queer folx of various types, and also has a fantastic brunch menu available on Sunday, complete with mimosas.

1101 E 54th St G

Closed Mondays, Tues-Thurs 10am-8pm, Fri-Sat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-3pm

Late-Night Necessities

The Sinking Ship

The Sinking Ship is its own breed of queer vegan hockey grunge bar. It’s located south of Broad Ripple in a nebulous area of College Avenue that’s recently seen a lot of development, and it’s one of the great wonders of Indianapolis. Hands down, this is one of the most vegan-friendly restaurants in the city. I’m grateful to the Sinking Ship for providing non-meat-eaters the opportunity to eat fatty bar food in the form of seitan wings, tater tots in the shape of a star (“star tots” for the initiated), tempeh bacon, and “nacho teez.” Another bonus? They’re open late (think 3 AM). Sinking Ship will often donate proceeds to Indiana Youth Group (IYG), an organization for LGBT kids and their allies. It’s dark and no-frills, the staff are genuine, the women’s bathroom is full of feminist rantings and the bar fare is superb, but if you find it lacking, there’s always Open Society across the street to give you a healthy dose of bouge.

4923 N College Ave

Mon-Thurs 2pm-3am, Fri-Sun 11am-3am

Peppy Grill

You can find the ultimate greasy spoon under the soft light of the sometimes confusing Hamburgs sign that marks your arrival. Open literally 24/7, Peppy’s is the best place in the city for food when you’ve been out drinking and need to sober up, or for later when your hangover arrives. They serve standard diner fare with pie and endless coffee that’ll leave you sounding like Agent Cooper in the Double R.

1004 Virginia Ave, 24/7

Ripple Bagel & Deli

If you’re looking for cheap eats in the Broad Ripple area, Ripple Bagel & Deli is a great option. Over the years employees and regulars have contributed sandwiches off the main menu which now paper the walls behind the counter. There are seriously so many combinations of toppings that it would probably take a year to eat through all the options. If you can’t decide what to get and you’re feeling lucky, order the lottery and they’ll choose for you.

850 Broad Ripple Ave

Mon-Thurs 8am-8pm, Fri-Sat 8am-4am, Sun 8am-7pm

St. Josephs Brewery & Public House

Feel like craft beer ought to be a religious experience? Head on over to St. Joseph’s Brewery & Public House. St Joseph’s repurposed one of the oldest Catholic churches in Indianapolis in 2015 after it lay dormant for over 50 years and turned it into a House of Beer. The brewing process takes place on the altar and you enter up the original church steps under a beer-themed stained glass work. With a quaint patio, small private parking lot, and well-rounded late night menu, St Joseph’s has something to offer even the least spiritual among us.

540 N College Ave

Closed Mondays, Tues-Thurs 11:30am-12am, Fri-Sat 11:30am-1am, Sun 10am-11pm

Get Your Drink On (Alcoholic or Otherwise)

Hotel Tango Distillery

Hotel Tango Artisan Distillery was founded in 2014 by a disabled Marine veteran, his wife and several of their friends from a local law school. Since then the business has exploded with bottles appearing in grocers around the state and their tasting room becoming one of the coolest places to drink in the city. All beverages (whiskey aside due to obvious reasons) are named after the corresponding NATO phonetic alphabet and the cocktail menu rotates seasonally with expert results. The bar cat and the dog-friendly nature of the establishment become the cherry on top!

702 Virginia Ave

Mon-Thurs 2pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 12pm-11pm, Sun 12pm-10pm

New Day Meadery

When you think Midwestern drink life, mead isn’t always the first thing on your tongue. New Day takes mead out of your favorite anachronistic joust and into the present with their flights, slushies, cocktails, pours and carryout options. I’m a fan of the casual atmosphere that has your favorite girl groups of the 2000’s on shuffle while you challenge your gal pals to some not-so-casual Scrabble. My personal recommendations are the Live Currant slushie or taking a chance with their seasonal specials.

1102 Prospect St

Closed Mondays, Tues-Thurs 2pm-9pm, Fri 2pm-10pm, Sat 12pm-10pm, Sun 12pm-6pm

Centerpoint Brewing

Centerpoint Brewing is still in its first year, but they are definitely a fan favorite in the community. From the weekly trivia night (often involving animals), to food trucks, brewery tours and more, Centerpoint is a mandatory stop on your way downtown. For sports fans, they play a healthy mix of hockey and soccer, but you can also gather up your queer girl gang and settle in for a night of Jenga and other retro games.

1125 E Brookeside Ave

Mon-Weds 4pm-9pm, Thurs 4pm-10pm, Fri 12pm-10pm, Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 12pm-8pm

HoiTea ToiTea

HoiTea ToiTea is a newer tea house that has settled into the hipster college/family community known as Broad Ripple. Whether you’re looking for tea blending classes, interesting tea and kombucha combinations or your favorite cakepops (superior to St*rbucks), there is a good chance that the staff at HTTT can guide you to what you need. Personal recommendation: root beer float tea latte & white chocolate raspberry scones.

6283 N College Ave

Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am-5pm

Nine Lives Cat Cafe

This cafe is the ideal spot for any cat lover. Grab a delicious coffee, tea, hot cocoa or espresso and head into the cat room, where there are always several cats wandering around, playing, and grooming themselves. All cats at Nine Lives are adoptable through the Humane Society of Indianapolis — if you find one you can’t leave without, you can adopt them! If you’re allergic or don’t like cats, then you can grab a drink or snack and sit in the cat-free zone, where there are windows into the cat room so you can watch the antics at a safe distance.

1315 Shelby Street

Mon-Thurs 9am-8pm, Fri-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 9am-6pm

The Thirsty Scholar

The Thirsty Scholar is a coffee, beer, and wine bar located on the border of the Old Northside and Herron Morton Place, making it walking distance from a number of restaurants and local art venues like the Indy Indie Artist Colony and the Harrison Center. You can sit outside on a small patio along 16th Street, or you can sit indoors and people watch through the big glass windows. Everyone at the Thirsty Scholar is intimidatingly cool-looking, but the best part is they’re also nice. The bar is incredibly queer-friendly. You’ll see “Trans Lives Matter” on flags near the cash register, and you might catch one of a number of queer events that they host monthly. They serve craft beer from Indiana breweries, have a decent wine selection, and serve a fine cup of Intelligentsia coffee. They’ll also serve you a number of appetizers, from hummus and olives to meat and cheese. You won’t regret eating one of the truffles from Best Chocolate in Town. Overall, they’re a local smorgasbord of snacks, drinks, and queers and a great place both for work or a chat. The Thirsty Scholar is next door to a boarded-up dive called The Varsity Lounge, one of the first gay bars in Indianapolis that dates to the 1940s, so when you stop by its modern neighbor make sure you give your ancestors a nod.

111 E 16th St

Closed Mondays, Tues-Fri 8am-1am, Sat 9am-1am, Sun 9am-12am

You may have noticed that we haven’t really mentioned a gay bar yet in this guide and there’s a reason for that — Indianapolis no longer has any that specifically cater to LBTQ+ women. While experiences differ among the writing group for this list, many of the Indy establishments that cater to gay men are not inclusive spaces. There is one floor of one bar that remains largely a queer ladies space – and that space is at Metro.

Metro Nightclub and Restaurant

This double-decker establishment sure is something, but that something can vary largely by night and time of visit. They’ve got a patio out front and upstairs and after dark you’ll regularly find the crowd divided by gender: men on the first floor and women on the second. Touchtunes controls the soundtrack most nights with DJs regularly in on the weekend. Pool is free and drinks are decently priced, sometimes low if you play your specials right.

707 Massachusetts Ave

Mon-Fri 3pm-3am, Sat-Sun 12pm-3am

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Does Indy Read Books?

It does! And while we don’t have a LGBTQ+ specific bookshop, we have Indy Reads Books, which is the next best thing.

Indy Reads Books

Indy Reads Books is an independent bookstore in the heart of the Mass Ave shopping district. Every purchase of either a new or used book will generate money for Indy Reads, a local nonprofit that helps adults in Indianapolis learn to read. The bookstore is mostly volunteer-run. The back of the bookstore is often used as an event space by various LGBT and activist organizations (notably Indy Pride and IndySURJ) for author visits, discussion panels, or fundraisers. There’s plenty for people of all ages at the store, and lots of space to sit and read.

911 Massachusetts Avenue

Mon-Thurs 11am-7pm, Fri-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun 12-6pm

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Health Services

Eskenazi Transgender Care

Eskenazi Health’s Transgender Health and Wellness Program was designed to fill a void in health services provided to transgender Hoosiers. Their expansive services include primary care, hormone therapy, specialty referrals, gender affirming surgery, civil legal aid services, and more.

720 Eskenazi Ave

Planned Parenthood of Indiana and Kentucky

Planned Parenthood is an inclusive healthcare center for all needs related to sexual health and wellness, as well as diverse needs related to gender and sexuality. Come here for low cost birth control, STD testing, gynecological checkups, pregnancy services, services for trans folks, and abortion referral. The center on Georgetown Road offers abortion services on site.

935 East Hanna Dr, 3750 North Meridian St, 9385 East Washington St, 8590 Georgetown Rd

All clinics are open M-F, with some also open on Saturday. Call 800.230.PLAN to schedule an appointment.

All Options Pregnancy Center

While not located in Indianapolis, the services All Options Pregnancy Center provides to the entire state of Indiana are critical. This secular, client-centered organization supports folks through all pregnancy and parenting scenarios under the guiding principle that everyone deserves to have all options. They operate both the Hoosier Diaper Program and the Hoosier Abortion Fund, the only abortion fund available to Hoosiers in need. Whether you’re looking for a place to volunteer or a place to receive counselling or other services, All Options can serve as a great provider or point of contact. #HoosierAF

1014 S Walnut, Bloomington IN 47401

Closed Sundays & Mondays, Tues-Fri 12pm-5pm, Saturdays by appointment only

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LGBTQ+ Family Services

Indiana Youth Group

Founded in 1987, Indiana Youth Group (IYG) has served as an independent hub for LGBTQ+ youth to hang out, often the first space. Focused on the under 21 crowd, IYG hosts weekday programming related to gender identity, free HIV testing, ‘girls who like girls,’ art outreach and one of my favorites — group cooking. Every June, IYG hosts Pride Prom, which provides young folks a safe space to dress up, compete for Prom Queen/King/Queer and dance the night away.

2943 E. 46th St

Weds-Thurs 3pm-9pm, Fri 3pm-11pm

Indy PFLAG

The Indianapolis chapter of PFLAG has support meetings on the first Tuesday of every month at Life Journey Church from 6-8pm.

GenderNexus

GenderNexus provides many different types of counseling and support groups for gender diverse individuals. Their wide range of services includes solutions-focused counseling, stage of life groups, family care groups, sexual health services, recovery support, legal consultation, referral and provider letters, and much more.

1100 W 42nd St, Suite 315

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Time for Pride!

Indy Pride

Indy Pride started in 1995 as a group dedicated to serving the LGBT community. With an all-volunteer board, Indy Pride puts on a gigantic parade and festival to celebrate LGBT pride in the city and state at large. After several ups and downs, including controversies over its predominantly white image, Indy Pride is striving to reinvent itself and make itself more racially inclusive by collaborating with Indy Pride of Color on events and discussion panels. In addition to the parade and festival, Indy Pride hosts almost a full month of programming leading up to the big day, including a 5k, pet pride, drag softball and community picnic, speakers panels, and more.

Indiana Pride of Color

Started in 2014, Indiana Pride of Color, lead by Brothers United Inc., celebrates the life and achievements of the LGBTQ+ community of color through events throughout the year. Highlights include the annual Celebration festival at Ellenberger Park, which is free and open to all ages.

3737 North Meridian, Suite 401

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Got Resistance?

Indiana definitely has its problems, and Indianapolis bears the burden of being one of the few blue dots in a sea of red. That being said, there are an incredible number of good people here doing as much work as they can to better our community. Highlighted below are just a few of the organizations doing the damn work and making me (Brandalynn) proud to be a Hoosier.

Indy Feminists

Operating under the guiding principles of reproductive justice, human rights, and community, Indy Feminists is a local feminist grassroots group. Programming changes yearly but you can expect a heavy focus on Indiana specific issues, the Indiana legislature, and an uplifting of events and programming hosted by other local organizations. They are a founding member organization of the Indiana Reproductive Justice Coalition and escort at the last standing abortion clinic in Kentucky.

shehive

Shehive is best characterized as ‘creating safe spaces to deconstruct gender inequity.’ This is done through three platforms: buzzwords, women and femme space to tackle various types of assault; meetups, open to any and everyone to discuss the intersections of race, power, reproductive justice, gender and sexuality; and women317, intimate women and femme performance pop-up spaces to showcase local and international talent.

DONT SLEEP

Indianapolis is home to two #BlackLivesMatter groups, Deconstructing Oppression Now Through Solidarity Liberation Empowerment Equity and Perseverance (DONT SLEEP) and Indy 10 BLM. DONT SLEEP offers such sweeping programming and advocates in so many fashions that it is truly difficult to summarize the incredible work they do. They have an annual Toys for Tamir toy drive, monthly Operation Care Kits where they organize and distribute care packages to the homeless, regular Know Your Rights campaigns, movie screenings and panels, town hall meetings, Black-owned business events, and so, so, so much more.

Indiana Undocumented Youth Alliance

Established in 2011 after the founders held a peaceful sit-in at former Governor Mitch Daniel’s office while asking for a veto on anti-undocumented immigrant state legislation, Indiana Undocumented Youth Alliance (IUYA) is a youth-led non-profit organization dedicated to empowering undocumented youth and improving the overall quality of life for undocumented communities in Indiana. Offering scholarships and other services, IUYA has quickly become a cornerstone in the Indianapolis activist community.

IndySURJ

Indy SURJ is the Indianapolis, IN chapter of Showing Up for Racial Justice.They partner with DONT SLEEP, Indy10 BLM, and IUYA to decenter white voices in anti-racist work in the larger community. Regular programs include a book club held at Indy Reads Books, White Ally Trainings, and House Meetings for smaller discussions.

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Thinking of moving here? Here’s some harder stuff that no one wants to think about for a weekend visit.

Food Access

In a rapidly growing city, food access is still a major problem. In 2014, Indianapolis reported only 7% of the residents able to walk to a grocery store in 5 minutes (source) and in 2016, one of the largest grocery store chains filed for bankruptcy and either sold or shut down many of its locations, often the only source of fresh food in neighborhoods. In the words of the Indiana Healthy Food Access coalition, “Low access to a healthy food retail outlet is defined as living more than one mile from a supermarket or large grocery store in urban areas and as more than 10 miles in rural areas.” Currently, community gardens, co-ops, and farmer’s markets are few and far between. Community activist organizations are working with legislators to remedy this by developing Healthy Food Financing Initiative (HFFI) projects, which incentivizes stores to expand to low access communities as well as addressing education around nutrition and transportation.

Public Transportation

When it comes to public transportation, we’re getting better all the time. Unfortunately, we’re getting better by slowly improving an extremely limited system. Indianapolis is serviced only by IndyGo, the city’s bus system, on which single trip fares are $1.75. While the bus system has its drawbacks, one of the few good things to come from the 2016 election was the passing of the Marion County Transit Plan, which allowed the City County Council to enact a tax dedicated to transit and will allow the city to reinvest in its public transportation and bring us into the twenty first century. One other major step forward also occurred in 2016 with the opening of the Julia M. Carson Transit Center in downtown Indianapolis, the first hub of its kind in the city.

Cost of Living

According to NerdWallet, Indianapolis ranks as the 82nd most expensive city to live in the United States. Average salary per person falls around $24,430, unemployment rate is 9.4% (4.7% national) and the percent below poverty is 18.9% (13.5 national). Within the city, there is an ongoing political debate about raising the minimum wage ($7.25), to a much higher, livable wage. On the flipside of the low salaries, housing costs are low, making the city very attractive to outsiders, but costs are steadily rising due to the influx of young professionals into gentrified areas. Studies have shown that while there are policies in place to reduce discrimination in housing, LGBTQ+ identified folks have higher rates of homelessness, than their cis and/or heterosexual counterparts. Organizations like the Fair Housing Center of Central Indiana work to make sure housing agencies are in compliance with non-discriminatory practices as well as educate the general public on what laws protect them in the housing industry.

Safe Spaces

There’s no getting away from the fact that while Indianapolis is a rather blue city, the state we are surrounded by is not. Frequently the laws and politicians in our state are hateful and vicious. Although the state does not prohibit discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity, Indianapolis does. When the state gave us Mike Pence and the legislature gave us RFRA (Religious Freedom Restoration Act), Indianapolis gave us PENCE MUST GO. The downtown hipster-hoods, Irvington, Fountain Square and Fletcher Place, Mass Ave, the Old Northside, and SoBro are generally more LGBTQ+ friendly but at the same time increasing in cost and challenged with the same food desserts that plague our city.

In the end there are plenty of LGBTQ+ folks who find and build homes in Indy. There are activists of all walks of life dedicated to their causes and fighting to not only preserve Indianapolis within the state but challenge it to grow and progress as well.

Indianapolis can’t be everything to everyone; here’s hoping it can be at least something to you.

Bicycling Across India, Learning About Queerness and Intimacy Along the Way

all photos contributed by Mary Ann Thomas // feature image by Daniel Baylis

Last year, a series of emails between me — a queer brown woman of Indian descent — and my buddy — a white dude who dates dudes — led to us bicycling across India together. We’d never spent more than a cumulative month in the same place but had maintained a friendship through emails and Skype calls. For each of us, there was the appeal of an adventure and few obligations in our way.

We were two queers traversing a subcontinent on bicycle, through barren deserts and muggy cities and hippie-filled beach towns. I was newly single, out of a long-term relationship with a guy. India was a place I’d been a dozen times with family, my experience filtered through aunties and uncles and cousins. Danny was a long-term adventurer, a single guy who had made writing and travel his priority for much of the previous decade.

Early in the trip, when men held Danny’s gaze with an intimacy we considered flirtatious, we talked about the potential for him to sleep around. There’s legally a ban on “unnatural” sex acts in India, which has been used to marginalize LGBTQ folks. The law was initially created by the British and repealed in 2009, but was reinstated in 2013. We’d heard of this law, and later learned that the ban is likely to come under review again this year.

“In Kolkata, Amra Obdhuth is a pop-up queer café and event space, meant to be a home for queer women and trans folks who have been pushed to the margins of mainstream gay movements.”

Despite the ban, there is a growing LGBTQ culture in cities all over the country. Most of the major cities, including Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, have Pride parades. Mumbai, the home of Bollywood, is the home of KASHISH Mumbai International Queer Film Festival and Bombay Dost, the country’s first gay magazine. In Kolkata, Amra Obdhuth is a pop-up queer café and event space, meant to be a home for queer women and trans folks who have been pushed to the margins of mainstream gay movements. On the legal front, India’s Supreme Court has recognized transgender as a third gender, creating the legal framework for trans folks, including India’s hijra population, to receive healthcare, unemployment, and government assistance.

LGBTQ culture is intertwined within the history and art of India, too. More than half-way through our trip, Danny and I visited the 13th-century Konark Sun Temple, renowned for the explicit sex acts carved into the temple’s façade. One theory, our guide told us, was that the sculptures were designed as sex-education. Alongside carvings of erect penises in vaginas, we found depictions of big-breasted women fondling each other and multiple men’s penises out within a single scene. There were more orgies than we could count, and our guide delighted in showing us that no sex act was off-limits for this temple education.

“LGBTQ culture is intertwined within the history and art of India, too.”

As we rode from the Himalayas to the tip of India, we gradually became more comfortable. We communicated with hand gestures, pulled out our maps to tell the story of where we’d been, and repeated where we were from to dozens of onlookers at chai-stalls and open-air lunch counters each day. We became accustomed to how unpredictable each day was; anytime we thought we had something figured out, India would throw us a new obstacle. For example, when we thought we had our process of finding a good hotel figured out, we ended up in a town where every single hotel denied us entry.

Rules around hetero couples can be strict in India. Dating isn’t common outside of major cities; arranged marriages are the norm in many places. Public displays of affection between men and women are rare, unless you’re in certain corners of certain parks, where couples hide their touch. Since we were read as a straight couple by many, we were subject to some of these rules: many hotels would not allow Danny and I to stay in the same room because it was against “hotel policy” for an unmarried man and woman to be together. We were questioned by religious men, police, and curious strangers about our relation, and we were met with disbelief when we explained we were just friends. Most of the time, they’d accept our explanation: We were on a “special project” to see India by bicycle. In the town that rejected all our explanations, two teenage Indian adventurers came to our rescue at sunset. They rode motorbikes from hotel to hotel, talked to the managers, checked prices, and finally found a place that would take us.

“Constructs around coupling, marriage, and the why of it all are different in India, so for women to nurture relationships with other women, and for men to seek love from other men privately, wouldn’t surprise me.”

Some of the rules around coupling are understandable to me: marriage in India, especially when arranged, connects families, cultures, communities, and religious groups. It’s not exclusively a relationship between a couple. Because there is a sense of obligation within marriage, I rarely saw a husband and wife relying on each other the way that I do couples in the US. Married couples fulfill their obligations of raising children and caring for their families together. For the emotional turbulence of life, each partner is able to rely on huge extended networks of family, friends, elders, and religious ties to help them. Constructs around coupling, marriage, and the why of it all are different in India, so for women to nurture relationships with other women, and for men to seek love from other men privately, wouldn’t surprise me.

In this environment, Danny and I were both interested in how queers found each other. He downloaded Grindr, I downloaded Tinder, and a week of dates ensued. Grindr proved to be a source of information, a way to join strangers on a night out, and, of course, a means to hook up. While I was worried that there could be predators on the app, like people who were trying to trap gay men and violently enforce religious fundamentalism, Danny didn’t run into that at all.

For me, within a few hours of downloading Tinder, I had a date. She was studying abroad, but Chennai was home. We met up at a waffle café, where we shared an order of the most decadent waffles I’d ever eaten: chocolate syrup and chocolate ice cream saturated each crevice of the waffle with sweetness. We talked about our international travels, our experiences away from India, and what it was like to return. She told me that when she came out, she expected friends and family to be surprised, or to shame her. Instead, they expected it, she said. “I was the one surprised at how it was actually not a big deal at all.”

On a dinner date with an American ex-pat another night, I was told that queer women were motivated on Tinder in most of the major Indian cities. Compared to other countries, she found Indian women to be more responsive, engaged, and actively interested in going on dates. While queer culture isn’t out and proud with gayborhoods in every city, people seem to find each other covertly.

“That night, I texted her: ‘I don’t know who you’re interested in, but I’m leaving town in two days. I want to kiss you.’ She responded with a coy, ‘I’m curious.'”

Outside the apps, I ended up on a date with an Indian traveler who happened to be at the hostel I was staying in. She invited me out dancing with her friends and, since she put her hands on my waist, kept close all night, and had an asymmetrical haircut, I assumed she was queer. That night, I texted her: “I don’t know who you’re interested in, but I’m leaving town in two days. I want to kiss you.” She responded with a coy, “I’m curious.”

We met up the next day, ate pizza and talked about our pasts. She told me that she’d always wanted to be with a woman but had never had a chance. I told her I’d known I was queer since I was a teenager, but ended up in long-term monogamy with a dude, which only broke recently. She took us to her friend’s empty apartment, which she prearranged, where we made out with the lights on in sweltering heat. Lying in bed, she asked why I thought she’d be into women, and I tried to explain that Indian norms are full of moments Americans consider to be flirting, like sitting so close that your thighs and arms touch, dancing up on each other, and holding hands. “Holding hands doesn’t mean anything,” she said. “It must be so sad to not touch your friends.”

“There’s something beautiful about going to beaches where men lie in each other’s arms, walking around festivals where people of the same gender hold hands, and seeing young women drape their arms around each other.”

After four months in India, I had to agree. There’s something beautiful about going to beaches where men lie in each other’s arms, walking around festivals where people of the same gender hold hands, and seeing young women drape their arms around each other. There’s something sweet about an intimacy that reveals itself physically, about people being unafraid to show warmth through their bodies. As someone raised in New Jersey, where even shaking hands seems like too-intimate an act, India reminded me that the boundaries between our bodies are malleable, cultural. Physical love does not need to be bound up exclusively in sex; we can give and receive intimacy from friends and family.

The way I see it, relationships, friendships, and family structures are conceptualized really differently in India; as a result, there is room for queer folks.

Fatventure Mag Is Here to Reshape the Way We Tell Stories About Fat People and Adventures

As a fat babe who enjoys doing adventurous things outside, I’ve gotten used to shitty behavior from other humans accompanying my experiences in the great outdoors. Fatphobia is real and people are often ignorant or rude or both, and so stepping onto a trail with my pack or hopping on a bike to commute to work or even simply going outside in yoga clothes can be a challenging experience. Media representation makes it look as though the only people who belong on the adventurous path of life are thin, white, cis, able-bodied men, and if a person hears and sees that message long enough, they begin to believe it.

But that story is incorrect. Those are not the only folks who belong in the outdoors, and they are not the only ones deserving of adventures. They are certainly not the only ones who should be telling stories about their adventures.

Thank goddess, now we have Fatventure Mag.

Fatventure Mag, a print and digital magazine, seeks to change the narrative about who deserves an adventurous life and who can tell stories about those adventures. With its first volume due out later this year and its list of contributors brimming with talented fat outdoorsy women and non-binary folks, this magazine promises to shift the way we tell stories about being fat and adventurous. The magazine will focus on active lifestyles beyond the boundaries of weight-loss culture, and seeks to be as inclusive as possible, representing bodies of many shapes, sizes, and abilities.

Co-creators Alice Lesperance and Samantha Puc are putting the magazine together on top of their day jobs, a familiar story to anyone who has worked on a passion project by and for a group of humans who are not part of the mainstream conversation. Their hope for Fatventure Mag is to build a community through the project, a space where we can all learn from and grow with each other. The first volume will include personal essays, artwork, listicles, and interviews. Full disclosure, I’m being interviewed about my experience on the Pacific Crest Trail in 2017 (!), and there will also be interviews with Jessamyn Stanley who is a total badass and a body positivity advocate and yoga instructor and Jesse Amesmith of Good Witch Yoga. There are so many amazing stories included in this first volume, including KJ Gormley writing about their experience with weight lifting as a trans person, Dr. Emma Beckett discussing her determination to disrupt common weight-loss health narratives as a fat nutritionist, and Rebecca McCormick writing about camping as a fat woman. We fatventurers have so many stories to tell, so many feelings to share, so many words to write. This is (hopefully!) just the beginning.

Fatventure Mag is currently in the homestretch of its Kickstarter, with just five days left to reach its goal of $12,000. The money raised will go toward paying contributors, the printing and shipping of the first volume, and the costs of the Kickstarter campaign. There are a lot of really excellent perks available for donating, my personal favorites being the Fat In The Wild temporary tattoo, the gorgeous color art prints, and of course, the magazine itself!

To read more about the magazine and to check out the full list of contributors, head over to the Fatventure Mag website. You can also follow along on Twitter and Instagram. To support the Fatventure Mag Kickstarter, go here and donate. I’m so excited about this fat adventure – are you?!