I am never warm in Chicago. Like, ever. As a native desert-dweller, I am forever defrosting in this strange land of polar vortexes and “summer” days that barely break 60 degrees. And as I lust for the sauna of Arizona, shivering away in FUCKING BOOTS AND LONG SLEEVED SHIRTS IN AUGUST, I know that many of you are schvitzing away in other parts of the country, looking all cute in your tank tops and teeny shorts, aching for something cool and refreshing to remind you that you are not, in fact, living on the sun. The grass is always greener? (Please send sweaters.)
my boo and me in negative 40 degree weather
Regardless of geography or threshold for extreme temperatures, we all deserve to eat weather-appropriate food. Below are two recipes; the former reinvents a typically winter-time favorite and the latter puts summer time in your mouth, even if the much-anticipated peaches are all mealy and not-worth-it-tasting.
Cold oatmeal, guys. I’m not joking. I didn’t think it would be so awesome either, but turns out, this is actually even tastier than the hot gloppy stuff. And it’s more versatile too. And you can make it the night before and be ecstatic when you have such a delicious breakfast to eat in the morning without even trying. I’m telling you, it’s delicious. Like an oatmeal smoothie. Here is what you need:
1. Put some oats in the jar. I usually do about a cup, which doesn’t sound like much, but they will expand eventually, and also it’s surprisingly filling.
2. Cover the oats with your milk and then add about half as much more. You want at least and inch of milk above the oats if you want a thick oatmeal, and a little more milk if you want more thin. Stir. No measuring cup needed here. I promise it works.
3. Put that shit in the refrigerator and leave it alone over night or for at least 6 hours.
4. Come back in the morning and be amazed at how thick it got! Add a pinch of salt, a squeeze or pinch of sweetener, and a handful of dried nuts, fruit, seeds, or spices to taste. Stir it up and enjoy now or at your office in front of your curious and jealous co-workers.
Summer is both the best and the most challenging time of year to cook. Everything is in season and readily available (yay!) but it’s all so beautiful and ripe that the idea of futzing with it in any way seems sinful (boo!). For real, when there are ripe tomatoes and technicolor peppers, and fruit so sweet its basically crystalizing on your countertop, who needs recipes, or ovens, mixing bowls, or skillets? Cut open a mango and spoon it directly into your mouth. Boom. Dinner. Done.
But if you miss being in the kitchen and absolutely need to get your little chef-y paws on the gorgeous produce you bring home, here is a way to enhance it without screwing up a good thing. Because salt and spice make fruit taste even fruitier.
Here is my recipe for chile and lime salt. It’s pretty basic, but you can also add things like fresh herbs and even a little sugar to balance things out a bit. All you need is some perfectly ripe fruit to sprinkle it on and you will be the hit of the party/summer/your own personal summer oasis in front of the air conditioner. Best part is that you can make a big batch and put it in the fridge for up to a month. It also makes a really cute host gift if you package it in a mason jar with a festive ribbon.
Slice the chiles. It doesn’t really matter how big or small your slices are because they are about to be pulverized in the food processor, but if you aren’t so much into super spiciness, this is a good time to remove the ribs and seeds.
Use a vegetable peeler to remove the zest from both of the limes. Be careful and take your time. This recipe does not call for human skin.
Throw the chiles, lime peels and salt into a food processor and blitz until everything comes together in a beautiful, red sand. If you are using fresh herbs, throw some of those in too (about half a cup). Typically, I would tell you to dip a finger into anything you are processing and taste it for seasoning, but this shit is spicy and you might want to use a cut piece of fruit instead. Feel free to add more of any of the ingredients to balance the flavor as you see fit.
What other end of summer treats have you got up your short sleeves?
I’ve never been an authority on many topics. Even after two graduate degrees, I still don’t feel like I know much about the human condition. But winning America’s Best Cook a few weeks ago certainly makes me feel like a boss about cooking, and I’m not going to pretend like I hate the title, all the constant affirmation, and getting recognized on the street for it either. Seriously guys, keep it coming.
But here’s the thing: cooking food that is delicious and beautiful isn’t really that hard. If you like to eat, you already know how your food should taste and look. And if you happened to enjoy the process of cooking, you are way ahead of the curve. Not to be all smushy, but if you think creatively, have fun, and don’t take yourself too seriously, you will make incredible food every time. Take it from the woman who got yelled at by an Iron Chef (and deserved it) on national television: food doesn’t have to be stressful, or fussy, or plated with tweezers to be satisfying or “correct.” Especially if there aren’t a zillion cameras on you while you are cooking it. Oy.
Below are my top ten tips for making the food you already cook even better. Keeping in mind, of course, that “better” is totally relative and every other home cook and professional chef has top ten lists of their own. These are inexpensive/free and super easy ways to make small changes that have a big impact. No new pots and pans, no culinary school degree, no foodie magazine subscriptions.
Note that I said “a” sharp knife. Guys, don’t get suckered into buying a 16 piece knife set, or any knife set for that matter. You will end up falling in love with only one of them anyway, and the rest will just take up space in your kitchen. Buy one really excellent knife that feels amazing in your hand and use it for almost anything you need in the kitchen. I use this one because when I was six years old, this woman told me that small women shouldn’t be scared of big knives and she was correct. Unless you are breaking down large sides of animals, fileting fish, doing this, or slicing up a fuck-ton of bread, you only need one knife. The only trick is that it needs to stay extremely sharp. Dull blades are not even close to as safe or as fun to use as extremely sharp ones. Find someone who will sharpen yours for you, or get fancy and learn to do it yourself.
I’m not being condescending. I mean it. You know how restaurant food always tastes better than what you make at home? Yeah, that’s salt and pepper (well, and usually a shitload of butter, but still). And not just shaken on top of food after it’s cooked. I’m talking salt and pepper on every ingredient, layered into a dish at every step of the way. Best thing you can do? Ditch the salt and pepper shakers. Get yourself a small bowl to keep near your stove and fill it with salt. I actually keep two, one with regular table salt and the other with kosher salt. And get a pepper grinder. You don’t need a big fancy wooden one. I use this cheap one and it’s perfect. This way, you can really regulate the flow of salt and pepper into your dishes and get a feel for how much of it you are using.
Ok, this is the tip that requires the most financial investment, but just bear with me. I’ll preface by saying that supermarket spices are fine and anyone who uses them still gets to be a good cook. But! Supermarket spices have been sitting around the grocery store or the back of your cupboard for an eternity. They were ground up even longer ago, their delicious potential lost in the ether waaaaay before you get a chance to use them up. Buying your spices in bulk from a reputable seller is without a doubt the best way to go. Most of them will ship directly to your door. And you can buy exactly the amounts you want, instead of blowing all your cash on a huge bottle of nutmeg that will go rancid and stare blankly back at you years after you made that one batch of cookies that called for it. Start out with a few you are comfortable with, and graduate to the crazy sounding ones you never even tasted before. Take risks with them. Dried herbs and spices will make you a rockstar in the kitchen.
There are very few dishes that wouldn’t benefit from a squeeze of citrus juice, or zest, or both. As I write this, I’m actually pretty hard-pressed to think of some examples of food that would be made worse by it. There are the obvious citrus uses, like desserts and salad dressings and marinades. But even other fruits are tastier when coated with lemon or lime. Most cuisines of the world utilize citrus pretty heavily for a reason. It brightens up literally everything you want to eat. And it is visually gorgeous.
Much like citrus, salt, and pepper, there aren’t really many dishes that wouldn’t benefit from fresh herbs. Even desserts. And I’m not talking a sprig of parsley on top of your food. Some fresh herbs can even be used like lettuce in a salad! They are vibrant and fresh, and full of flavor. The easiest thing you can do to make food look appealing and interesting is to shower it with fresh herbs (same goes for greens of any kind). Just don’t bother using them in long cooking processes like soups or casseroles. A little heat on them is okay, but after a while, they will turn brown and lose a ton of flavor. Best to keep it fresh, and use them in cold dishes or on top of warm ones.
Without a doubt, the number one thing I learned from Michael Symon on America’s Best Cook was self-editing. Guys, I’m not ashamed to admit it. I am an over-feeder. And sometimes I think that if I add a zillion ingredients to a dish it will be interesting and delicious and people will applaud and love me. And while I would still be very much appalled if someone I fed walked away with only a half-full belly, my experience learning from a master taught me that it is always best to focus on a few really excellent ingredients and cook them to perfection. It actually takes a lot of confidence to self-edit, especially when you are super excited about cooking, and everything is in season, and wouldn’t this salad benefit from like 7 other ingredients? But if you want to make a really pretty plate of food, focus your energy on cooking the shit out of its components, and allow those who are eating it to enjoy it slowly by giving slightly smaller portions. Trust.
Speaking about portion sizes, the way you arrange food on a plate doesn’t change the way it tastes, but it can make things more or less visually appealing. Plating food is all about 1) structure 2) ease of eating 3) texture 4) fun. It’s really cool looking to arrange food with some height. Or to make a pool of sauce underneath the chicken, rather than spooning it on top. Small salads of greens or herbs add brightness and dimension to many savory dishes, and squirt bottles full of chocolate sauce can turn ordinary desserts into confections. Think about the components of your meal, and see if you can put them all onto one plate in a composed way that looks pretty. Also, just a personal preference, but white plates and bowls make food look extra beautiful. Just saying.
I know the word “crusty” doesn’t always have a positive association, but when it comes to food, it’s a major goal. From fish to veggies to tofu to meat, the best part is always the crispy brown bit. And even though she sent my ass to “The Pressure Cooker,” Anne Burrell is right about this one: Brown food tastes good. Don’t be afraid of using a higher heat than normal, and definitely don’t be moving your food around in the pan or on the grill before it has a chance to really develop a nice crust on it. And if you burn it, just say it’s “blackened.”
Sometimes we just want a bowl full of soft, creamy mac and cheese, and we want our teeth to sink through it with absolutely no effort whatsoever. Sometimes the only thing that will do is unadulterated chocolate pudding that requires no chewing at all. Sometimes a green salad is just a green salad. But when you want to up your game a little and get a little tszujy, adding something crunchy, flaky, frizzled, chewy, buttery, or crispy to a dish will do the trick. Try adding some fried shallots to that mac and cheese, some raspberries or pistachios to that pudding, or some pomegranate seeds and a curl of parmesan cheese to that green salad. Game-changer.
I don’t mean in a snobby way. I mean in the tasty way. Want to make an outstanding meal? Make sure it has sweet, spicy, salty, and sour components to it. Umami isn’t just a buzz word. Not every dish of your life needs to follow these rules, but every once and a while it’s really fun to re-imagine a classic in these ways. For example, if you wanted to make a killer pasta dish, I would recommend using super sweet tomatoes and even a pinch of sugar, lots of fresh chilies, dried and fresh herbs, salty pecorino cheese, and a squeeze of lemon juice in your sauce. It will hit every part of your tongue and leave you wanting more. Sexy.
Basically, having a heavy hand with seasoning, cooking food at the proper temperature, and resisting the urge to throw the entire contents of your fridge onto the same plate (p.s. I still struggle with this one) will enhance your meals like whoa. It all comes down to making your ingredients really taste the most like what they are. And if anyone gives you any shit, tell them America’s Best sent you.
You know what’s surprisingly easy? Making dumplings, that’s what. I’m not talking American dumplings, or Jewish bubbie dumplings (though both of these are really freaking easy too). Nope. I’m talking beautiful, hand-pleated, dim sum style potstickers that are everyone’s favorite food and apart of nobody’s culinary wheelhouse. Which needs to change, because guys, they are cheap and easy. Heh.
I’m not kidding. You too can cook these pillowy yet crunchy, chewy yet supple, sauce-dripping, gorgeous nom morsels! And the best part is that you can fill them with almost anything you already have in your refrigerator. Have those carrots and greens in the fridge been staring at you sadly a little too long? Do you have a bag of frozen edamame or other veggies sitting all alone in your freezer? Excitedly bought an unnecessary amount of mushrooms at the farmers market but now you aren’t sure what to do with them? Stir-fry that shit with a little soy sauce and some chili paste and put it in a potsticker.
Yup, if you have a package of dumpling wrappers in your refrigerator, you are always ready for a party. Or an exceptional evening in your pajamas, unwilling to share your potstickers with potsticker-less partners and pets And, no joke, you can feed crowds of people on dumplings for a matter of dollars because whatever you put inside of them is stretched really far. And you know what else? You can make a ton of potstickers on a lazy weekend, or invite a bunch of friends over for a dumpling-making party, freeze them, and have dumplings anytime you want them forever!!! You simply cannot argue with dumplings.
Ok, so how do you make potstickers? Basically, you take your filling of choice (I provide a fantastic recipe for one below), stir fry it, fold inside a wrapper, and them crisp them up in a pan until they can’t take it anymore. You really can put anything inside a dumpling, as long as you think it would taste good. The ONLY thing you need to remember is that whatever is inside the filling (veggies, meat, herbs, etc…) should be chopped or processed pretty small so it can actually fit inside the wrapper. Here is a step-by-step on how to make, fold, and fry your way to dumpling glory:
Heat up some oil in the bottom of a large skillet and sautee your mushrooms until they get nice and brown. Add the ginger, garlic, and scallions and cook them until they are soft. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.
Pour your edamame into the bowl of a food processor along with the chili paste, soy sauce, and cornstarch. Process until its smooth.
Mix the mushroom mixture with the edamame mixture, taste it for seasoning (maybe a little more chili paste here, or a little more soy there), and throw it in the fridge until you are ready to use it.
Step #1: Prep your filling- Below is a recipe for mushroom, ginger, and edamame potstickers, if you are into that. Otherwise, sauté finely chopped veggies until they are soft. Add some fresh herbs if you like (I am into scallions, cilantro, and fresh mint). Add some soy sauce, chili paste, garlic, ginger, or any other aromatic and delicious condiment you have laying around. If you are using ground meat, keep it raw (sexual), so that it doesn’t over-cook when it’s in the wrapper. Allow your mixture to cool completely in the fridge before you proceed to the next step.
Step #2: Fill your wrappers- Place one dumpling wrapper on a work surface, with one of the points facing you, like a diamond.
Put no more than a tablespoon of filling in the center of each one. For real. You are going to want to use more filling, but if you do, your dumplings won’t seal correctly and then nobody gets to eat them and everyone will hate you. Use a little water around the edges of the wrapper, and fold the diamond into a triangle. This is really important: use your fingers to really seal the edges and press out any air that gets trapped in there.
At this point, you can fry these up as is! Go ahead and skip to Step #4! But if you want them to look extra pretty…
Step #3: Crimp your dumpling (sexual?)- Hold up your beautiful triangle and starting at one side, make tiny crimps all the way to the other side like this:
It’s VERY important to keep all your little dumpling soldiers lined up, not really touching each other, and covered up with a towel or plastic bag, or something to prevent them from sticking together and drying out. Nobody likes a dry dumpling (definitely sexual).
Step #4: Fry and steam!- Heat up a big skillet over medium-high heat with some oil (anything but olive oil here because that shit burns REAL quick). Place your dumplings in the pan and under absolutely NO CIRCUMSTANCES touch them until I tell you too. These are called “pot stickers” for a reason! We very much WANT these dumplings to stick to the pot at this point so that they have a chance to form a super delicious brown and crispy crust. Let the dumplings cook for a few minutes until this happens.
Once your dumplings are starting to get brown on the bottom, prepare for drama. Fill up a glass of water, cover up your super cute bear arms with an apron or a hoodie, stand at a distance, pour in enough water to barely cover the bottom of the pan, and cover the pan quickly with a lid. Whoa. Did I mention the bear arms? Oil and water will splatter all over your adorable outfit and skin when heated to high temps! Careful!
Keep the lid on the pan, no matter how curious you are, for at least three minutes. This will allow 1) the dumplings to steam and finish cooking and 2) the water to work its magic and de-stick your pot stickers from the pan. Let the water evaporate completely before you remove your dumplings from the pan.
Step #5: EAT- Serve your dumplings over a bed of shredded cabbage, floating in some chicken broth, or just by themselves with a little dish of soy sauce and chili paste. You’re welcome.
For real though. Stop wasting your cash. Stop wasting plastic and paper. And for the love of Griner, stop wasting the opportunity to feed yourself really fucking delicious food. Just because you work in an office doesn’t mean you need to eat like a schlub. Because let’s be honest, that Chipotle burrito doesn’t make you feel so hot by 3pm and you don’t make enough money to be spending on $14 salads every day. And even if you did, the planet would be so sad at all the takeout containers and other shit you toss away after eating them. Is my Jewish guilt working on you yet?
Does the idea of spending an hour in your kitchen after a long day preparing some hippy brown bag lunch sound horrible? Yeah, it does to me too. Who wants to sit over a pot of boiling quinoa when we have so much to catch up on? Guys, with one trip to the grocery store and one to your nearest TJ Maxx, you can turn your work sitch into a fully functional kitchen and pantry that is just waiting for you to raid it.
Below are some lists of what you need to keep around in order to make healthy/cheap/easy/delicious salads, sandwiches and snacks at work whenever you like. All you need is a teensy bit of space in your cubicle or office, to carve out a spot in the communal (and most likely terrifying) fridge, and like one trip to the grocery store every so often.
The Hardware – I got almost all of my stuff at TJ Maxx and The Dollar Store for less than $10. This stuff will live in an empty drawer or filing cabinet in your office or cubicle. Nobody has to know. So profesh.
The Pantry – This list is really just a suggestive jumping off point. Anything that doesn’t have to be refrigerated and that you might like to add to a salad or sandwich goes in the pantry. And it all lives in the same place as your hardware.
The Fridge – Here comes the endless salad bar and sandwich station of your dreams! Below is a list of what I generally keep in my work fridge, but don’t let it stifle your lunchtime fantasy. The only trick here is muscling your way into a communal office fridge and finding some space for your stuff. You can see above that I just took over an entire crisper drawer with my bag because, let’s face it.
Once you have your hardware set and a good stock of pantry and fridge items rotating, you can eat exactly what you like every day! Maybe you want a hummus wrap with fresh veggies one day, and maybe you are into a chopped salad with avocado and cheese the next. Oh, you’re trying to eat more protein? Make lettuce wraps with some romaine and a few deli slices/hard boiled eggs/chickpea salad.
See how easy?!
How do you make omelets and French toast even better than they already are? Matzo, that’s how.
I know that “matzo” isn’t typically the answer to that kind of question because that shit is dry and flavorless, but just go with me on this. Much like the fried tortillas in chilaquiles, matzo has this way of turning regular old breakfast into something special, textured, and absolutely delicious.
And good news! It’s Passover, so matzo is plentiful and on sale! What? You are gluten-free? Yup, I got you covered. Now all you need is to decide if you are in a sweet or a savory mood, because matzo brei comes both ways. How switchy.
I grew up eating both versions, savory immediately followed by sweet, because dessert following breakfast is TOTALLY a thing and obvi the only civilized way to eat. The classic savory version of matzo brei has fried onions in it, but I also like to add a little garlic, some fresh herbs, and even a little cheese. What can I say? Gilding the lily is sort of my calling card. The classic sweet version is a lot like French toast, served with butter and syrup and powdered sugar on top. Though I wouldn’t say no to a tumble of fresh berries, some whipped cream, a drizzle of chocolate, OMG somebody stop me! No, don’t.
Below are recipes for both sweet and savory matzo brei. But by all means, do NOT limit yourself to my ingredient list. This can really be a “clean-out-the-fridge” meal where you toss in leftover grilled veggies or pesto from last night’s dinner, or scrape out the last spoonfuls of your peanut butter jar (though if you are anything like me, peanut butter doesn’t really exist in spoonfuls because you have to eat an entire jar in one sitting if it is anywhere near your home).
As long as you follow these five basic steps as a starting point, you can add pretty much anything to the mix and be happy about it. Chag Pesach Sameach!
1) Take out however many sheets of matzo you might need. I typically use 2 sheets per person, but I like to over-feed people.
2) Crumble up the matzo indiscriminately. You want some pretty large shards and some smaller pieces as well. Try to avoid making matzo dust though. That shit isn’t useful to anyone.
3) Run some extremely hot water in your faucet. Once it’s hot, drown the matzo for about 45 to 60 seconds, or until you feel it start to break down a bit. You don’t want it totally water-logged, but it should def be pretty soft.
4) Drain the matzo of all the liquid. Completely. Literally press down on the matzo to squeeze out any remaining water.
5) Mix in one egg per sheet of matzo, along with a few pinches of salt.
Now your paths diverge, and it’s time to get creative.
Ingredients:
Butter (or dairy-free alternative)
Matzo and egg mixture (see above)
Cinnamon
Honey
Toppings: maple syrup, powdered sugar, fresh fruit, chocolate chips, whipped cream, etc…
Heat up a few tablespoons of butter in a large skillet. Pour in the matzo and egg mixture over medium-high heat with a few dashes of cinnamon and a few squirts of honey. You can either scramble it up like you would scrambled eggs, or you can flatten the mixture out in the pan and cook it up in one big frittata-like disc (as shown below). Once everything is nice and browned, plate it up and pour on your toppings of choice!
Ingredients:
Butter/oil
Matzo and egg mixture (see above)
Salt and pepper
Optional add-ins: green onions, cheese, spices, fresh herbs, etc…
Thinly slice a medium-sized onion. Heat up a few tablespoons of butter in a large skillet with a little oil as well. (Pro tip: mixing butter with oil prevents the butter from burning at a high heat. The more you know.) Add the onions to the skillet and cook them for about 10 minutes, or until the onions get super caramelized and brown and nom. Feel free to add in some fresh garlic or any other veggies you are into as well. You can also add some spices like garlic powder, dried herbs, chili powder, really anything your little heart desires. (The version shown above has onions, scallions, and chipotle cheddar cheese.) Just make sure you add a few big pinches of salt and black pepper.
Pour in the matzo and egg mixture over medium-high heat, and scramble it up just like you are making eggs. I know it is counter-intuitive to making scrambled eggs, but you really do want some brown and crispy bits here. Once everything is nice and browned, you can add some cheese to melt in, if you are into that (I definitely am). Enjoy!